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Post by bram762 on Mar 17, 2014 21:36:52 GMT -5
Hey all, I'm pretty new to the WWII scene of airsoft. Recently I've ben made a convert when I purchased a WE p08 6inch luger with a snail mag, sold my m16vn, and got an AGM mp40. I've owned, or taken apart v2's in mp5's to v7's in m14's and have a pretty sound grounding in fiddling with gearbox's, hop-up's, and how to strengthen the main body of airsoft guns. Before even putting 200 rounds through this mp40 I've installed a madbull 6.01 tightbore, Tokyo marui eg1000 short motor, spring guide with bearing, and a chopped m135(took about a half inch of it). I've seen a lot of threads about how to, and what to replace/upgrade in the agm mp40, and I'd like to give what knowledge I've acquired in the past couple days with this mp. -The barrel, and hop-up unit are unique to this weapon. As with later model lower end Chinese AEG's they've elected in efforts to save money and time to NOT mill out a fixed spot at beginning of the inner barrel. As with almost any Tokyo Marui, clone, or not this done so that when the hop-up rubber is on the barrel (over the fixed cut-out) and a spacer is applied over the cut-out on the rubber it dips down into the chamber, preforming the wonder job of- giving you hop-up. The AGM mp40 hop-up chamber is reminiscent of an ak type with a sliding bar held by two small screws that moves a se-saw type arms down onto the bucking. Holding the inner barrel is a plastic cuff that slides onto the barrel, and than slides into the hop-up chamber. The plastic cuff that holds the inner barrel has the small cut-out required for the hop-up, and is where the bucking slides on. This means for the air to push the bb, it has to go through the bucking, past the plastic to the inner barrel. 3 pieces, fatal flaw for air compression, and limits the user on the type of bucking. To get around this problem, and to install an AEG type tightbore I cut off about a half inch off the plastic cuff, right where the bucking slides on. After doing so I used a drill bit with the same inner diameter as the plastic cuff, and smoothed out where I cut so that the tightbore could slide past. Pushing the tightbore until it stuck through the other side of the cuff at the same length the plastic was, I put on the bucking, wraped the hop-up arm in Teflon tape(prevents side to side play) and field tested the weapon. 50yards hitting a torso sized bucket in the wind with .25's was not a problem, I'm going to do a longer range test when I get more bb's(yeah, im that broke lol). I'm trying to find different bucking's that could fit but and AEG bucking isn't wide enough to fill the chamber, and a pistol type hop-up just doesn't match up right. Hope this helps sooombody with there AGM, tightbore's are not over rated, they're pricey for good cause, tight tolerances, tight groups.
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Post by raffles on Apr 9, 2014 20:47:38 GMT -5
I recently did a little work on my own MP40, by that I mean I replaced every part except for the gearbox shell and the trigger bar. lol. I found the original barrel to work well with the hop unit it came with but the rubber was starting to wear so decided to upgrade the barrel to take standard rubbers. I ditched the barrel in favour of a MP5 length tightbore (6.03 I think)with a guarder clear rubber and a wide H nub. this setup usually works for me but the weird hop unit in the MP40 had to go so I picked up an element AK hop and with a little trimming to the mag feed nozzle sits really well. I will say I suffered a bit of a power loss but I think this is due to the parts needing a little adjustment to fit more snugly.
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Post by bram762 on Apr 12, 2014 8:11:44 GMT -5
That's a pretty smart idea, maybe the nozzle isn't seating just right in the hop-up. New upgrades: I installed a polycarb piston(cuz I broke 2 stock one's) an m120 and a better spring guide. I havn't crooned it but I bet it's pushing just under 400fps, make's a nice loud smack of my grill outside at 70ft, nice and loud
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Post by bram762 on May 22, 2014 10:56:17 GMT -5
Quick little update-I took my mp40 to the rifle range( while I shot my mosin nagant) and I kid you not, it reached 100 yards. My father looking through the spotter's scope saw at least 50% of my bb's hitting a plywood board and even sticking into the previously made bullet holes in it. I have owned almost a dozen AEG's and NON has come even close to 100yards. The only major thing I did differently was a different spacer over the bucking. I took a copper wire that had rubber around it and cut out the rubber to make a spacer. It's maybe 4mm's but definitely thicker in diameter than any spacer I'v seen or used. Only other mod to the hop-up was a deeper groove in the hop-up arms where the spacer sits, and Teflon tape where the arm rubs against the chamber. I hope some of you guys can replicate this process and get similar results!
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shiftysgarand
Corporal
BangbangbangbangbangbangbangbangPING
Posts: 1,165
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Post by shiftysgarand on May 22, 2014 15:39:33 GMT -5
Would you mind taking some pictures?
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Post by bram762 on May 26, 2014 16:45:51 GMT -5
I'll try but I'm not smart at such things- If somebody wants to pm me there phone number i'll send a few pics via text. I didn't do anything radical but I would like to give you all an accurate viewing of the spacer next to a dime and a .223
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Post by bram762 on Jun 4, 2014 17:03:45 GMT -5
No luck with a camera but I'm at gunsmithing school now so I'll try and give you all some real accurate measurements of that spacer. O, another thing I did, indirectly but I think had influence- when I cut the tight bore to length, I used a pip-cutter. You can get it at the hardware store, looks like a tiny pizza cutter with two rollers that screw closer and closer to said "pizza cutter". It cuts by compression, and it squeezes the barrel slightly at the end. Metal will start to spawl at the muzzle after a few hundred round, so recrown it once every couple hundred rounds and the bb will do all the work. After about 5,000 rounds it's not spawling anymore, and the compression is amazing.
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