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Post by volkssturm on Jan 4, 2017 17:41:31 GMT -5
From the Ministry for Silly Ideas. I think about this occasionally. Converting an aeg (probably an M14) into a faux Kar98. I know, I know, heresy! And why not do a springer? Springer conversions work. But being bolt action they have a tremendous disadvantage when faced with aeg's, even firing semi-auto. With a springer you have to work the bolt between shots, but you're also fighting the power of the spring, especially if the gun is upgraded. So you're actually going to be firing slower than if you were using a real steel Kar98 or Enfield (Enfield actions are famous for being among the fastest bolt actions) because it takes more effort to work the action. My thinking is a fake receiver and bolt would cover the mechbox. Possibly the bolt could be made to work back and forth so the user could go through the motions.
Thoughts? (Light up those flame throwers)
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 4, 2017 18:46:55 GMT -5
You and I think alike! Even though it would not be part of the functionality I think the bolt should operate and I just haven't figured out quite how to do it over the M14 gearbox. An Enfield seemed the most logical conversion with its box magazine.
Bolt action airsoft guns do struggle to hold their own for the very reasons stated. Interestingly I find the cheap springer carbines are more capable skirmishers than the converted vsrs as it's easier to keep the muzzle pointed roughly at your target and walk in your rounds.
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adrg
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Posts: 210
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Post by adrg on Jan 5, 2017 14:17:03 GMT -5
Hi both,
I was thinking the same - why not? I started such a project using a SVD gearbox and a plastic Dboys stock. The most difficult is to get the mag. The current idea is to put a high cap mag internals (like MP5 ) and transform the lower handguard in a bb reservoir. Everything using an AEG hop-up and internal barrel. So - it is doable but From what I learned: M14 gearbox might work better as it has the nozzle in an upper position while the SDV has it in a lower pozition. I was able to adapt to central position (King Arms SVD version) but lower would look better. There is very little space to build a receiver arround the gearbox (cylinder from AEG makes about 25mm in diameter.) I would start from a spare Dboys (but I don't have one. I have no solutions for bolt movement. It should at least move up abd down, but back-forward would be difficult.
For me this will probably the last project to complete as it actually means to build a complete AEG from scratch. I still have to do the final touches to VZ24 and all recever part for the G43.
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Post by volkssturm on Jan 5, 2017 20:28:21 GMT -5
I've got a mechbox from a Sten gun, which looks promising. It's basically a Ver. 7 (M14) mechbox stripped down, with the motor coming straight out the end. The problem is, it only fires full auto. If there's such a thing as an electrical circuit that would give it the right pulse to do one cycle then I'm thinking it could be mounted just ahead of the receiver. It might also be just a hair too tall for a regular stock.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 6, 2017 12:11:25 GMT -5
The feed system is always the big hiccup (at least for me). Schmitty from way back in our archives was a genius at such things but not something I ever could get right. I agree that probably just a partial action of the bolt would be adequate for our purposes. One of the advantages of the gas bolties is because you are NOT working a powerful spring the action can be smooth and fairly seamless.
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adrg
Private
Posts: 210
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Post by adrg on Jan 10, 2017 2:50:36 GMT -5
Well - Sten GB has only one issue - the trigger is far back. While the SDV GB has it a little too forward, but still manageable to reach. Looking forward to see how Sten GB will fit in your project.
BTW - you can use any of the electronics that limits the frequency of fire to shoot single (I like Gate M.E.R.F 3.2 because they are available in EU, not very expensive and easy to fit due to Deans connectors, but you can also find unit controls from Jefftron in a wide variety of forms - V2; V3 trigger boards or stand alone. Not so easy to solder so the wired versions might be helpful). Usually you will need to decrease the frequency by adding a pause after each trigger pool. Also some of them would allow you to adjust the length of shoot so you will get one full circle and even pre-cocking. Yet a lot of trying and error thing.
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