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Post by Guinness on Dec 23, 2007 12:30:07 GMT -5
Relax guys, ;D
It's a baseball field on the edge of town, that as you can tell is snowed in, certainly not a School yard-
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Nimlas
Master sergeant
grumpy
Posts: 1,594
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Post by Nimlas on Dec 23, 2007 12:54:17 GMT -5
why would we be seeing guiness and his son on cnn? Thanks for my new sig quote there professor! ;D
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Post by airsoftaddict on Dec 24, 2007 2:59:24 GMT -5
oh I'm so flattered
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Post by jedburgh on Dec 26, 2007 12:16:18 GMT -5
Regarding those shells, here's a solution that might be practical. Take some orange fluorescent paint and a small brush and paint the rim and a small band around the shell. Your eyes should pick up the fluorescent orange easily. If the enemy can spot it, then he's a sharp eyed bugger and he'll get you anyway. (Not 1/4" like on the front of a new gun, something much smaller.)
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Post by dookieboy on Dec 26, 2007 22:14:25 GMT -5
Wait, so does the gun then fire better??
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Post by valtteri on Jan 2, 2008 18:01:24 GMT -5
Okay, got mine. I like it, a fun toy to play with. They day is only a couple of hours here, so I only got to shoot it in the dark, can't say much about where the BBs when. I hit a tree when I wanted to hit one.
One funny thing is that the inner barrel seems to be only about 25cm long, or 10" for you. Have to check this further, couldn't do it now because I have lost all my very small hex keys, but either it's that or the inner barrel is two-piece.
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Russian
Corporal
Magician
Posts: 923
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Post by Russian on Jan 3, 2008 0:26:22 GMT -5
I didn't see this yet, I only saw the question asked, but never answered, so please direct me to the answer if I missed it. Would it be possible to fit a VSR/USR base rifle into this, removing the whole shell feed system?
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Post by valtteri on Jan 3, 2008 8:08:16 GMT -5
As much as fitting it into anything else. You cannot fit just the system, you have to replace the whole bolt, receiver etc. In the end you'll end up using mainly the stock, rear sight, parts of the outer barrel and front sight. Additionally, if you're crafty, you can make use of the bolt rear part and some other minor parts.
Pot metal airsoft parts are definitely easier to fit into a VSR than steel real steel stuff. Also you can get all the necessary parts (with a plastic stock) in one cheap package and perhaps make a tenner or two by selling the shells and cylinder. What we're talking about here is fitting cosmetic parts onto a VSR, not converting the Dboys rifle into VSR action.
Ukkolzi has presented his APS fitted with Marushin springer parts elsewhere on this forum. The project with this gun would be nearly identical.
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Post by Boshman on Jan 3, 2008 10:54:30 GMT -5
you should be able to install a VSR action into it and use a lot of the cosmetic parts, bolt handle, bolt-rear, bolt release level, rear sight etc. That is exactly what I did with my gas shell ejecting Marushin: ww2aa.proboards45.com/index.cgi?board=technical&action=display&thread=1194388138I dunno how well the plastic stock would hold up, I would love to see some pics of the Dboyi disasembled to see what the inside of the stock looks like!
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Post by valtteri on Jan 3, 2008 11:03:03 GMT -5
The stock is thick plastic and does not just comprise of the outher spheres, but it looks a bit like the wood stock from inside too. It's hollow obviously, but it has has some shape on the inside too. Describing this goes a bit too far for my English and concentration right now, but anyways I think it would be easy to use it too, albeit I don't know how smart it is to put a lot of customizing effort to be left with a plastic stock.
Real steel stock and Dboys Kar98k for the metal parts would anyways be the best option for a VSR or APS conversion. It even solves some legality issues in some countries, in Finland even a part of a real steel barrel, like used in some conversions here, is a big no-no.
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Post by sniper on Jan 8, 2008 21:46:34 GMT -5
I have a friend that is looking at buying one of these , would you recomend it for a beginer?
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Post by bluecrabofpain on Jan 8, 2008 22:25:11 GMT -5
I have a friend that is looking at buying one of these , would you recomend it for a beginer? If he's actually intending to use it in an actual match, I would give that a no. I don't actually own the gun myself, but the fact that it's shell ejecting makes it rather impractical to use in play. Great plinker gun though (from what I have seen/heard). Actually, it depends really on who he's going to be playing against. If everyone else is using $20 AEGs or spring pistols, then go ahead. otherwise, a CYMA Thompson, AGM MP40, or one of those new chinese Lugers for about $110 would probably be a better buy. If he's NEVER owned an airsoft gun before, then maybe the Double Eagle springer MP40 may be for him ;D It was my first gun ever, and it was great while it lasted ($20 springers don't last long). Beware though: the guns are very inconsistent; some are exceptional for the money, others have shots that veer 10 degrees to the left. If you get a crappy one at least you didn't waste too much money.
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Post by sniper on Jan 9, 2008 8:46:03 GMT -5
he would have men using thomsons and grands against him , but I would be there to support him with an MP40 , we were thinking of doing a conversion on the thing so that it is nolonger shell ejecting , I am trying to set up a unit that is period correct in every way , It will take some time but we will get things runing.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 9, 2008 22:26:37 GMT -5
There will be a number of players at this weekends long winter game in the Northwest equipped with the guns and some extra shells on the German side. All players have substantial ammo and mag restrictions which should help some and all but the BAR men and MG guys will be firing semi auto. Still it will be challenging for them to do well with them.
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Post by Guinness on Jan 10, 2008 9:59:23 GMT -5
They are releasing a wood stock version now BTW
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 14, 2008 1:19:24 GMT -5
There were at least a half dozen of these (maybe more) at the Long Winter game this weekend and guys were actually using them in the skirmish. I heard several suggest that they greatly improved the action by filing inside the action where the shells tend to snag and eventually jam. They explained that if you run your hands along the channel the bullets follow you'll see where you need to file. They mentioned that they noticed the metal shells were getting gouged from use and tracked it back to some burrs that were easily eliminated.
The guns shoot pretty good once you get used to them. It helped that the guys had extra shells and used stripper clips and that the Amis were restricted to semi auto fire and low cap magazines and had very few automatic weapons while the Germans had quite a few MGs.
It was great game.
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Post by sniper on Jan 16, 2008 23:30:03 GMT -5
I have several guys that whant the Kar 98 can anyone tell me from there experiences if this gun will work efficiently withought the conversion? Would you suggues that they buy a wood version of the Mp001 or the Kar98?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 17, 2008 14:38:06 GMT -5
For straight skirmishing the plain wood MP001 is fine as a cheap bolkt action rifle and you will be able to get some kills with it. For reenactment airsoft the KAR 98 provides the correct looks with reduced function due to the shell ejecting and limited rounds prior to needing to reload. A blend of the two would frankly be ideal.
Guys managed fairly decently with them at last weekends event but of course were frustrated by the guns limitations and mostly used them for photo purposes.
Incidently the new real wood stock version sounds like the way to go even though they do a great job on the plastic stocks. What is the price difference?
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Post by Guinness on Jan 17, 2008 17:48:22 GMT -5
Not sure because there is also a report that DBoyi will sell the wood stock separately sooner rather than later, which is a good option for those that already own one. DBoyi generally sells stocks and accessories separately for their other models also.
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Post by Ramon on Feb 23, 2008 9:06:37 GMT -5
Hey Guinness, I know you live in the USA, but do you know any German or Belgian websites where I can buy the Kar98K from Dboyi.
Because I wanted to order from an American website but since airsoft is not fully legal (you may own one, but you can't have on dutch soil) I'm afraid that when the gun arrives from America it gets intercepted by the Dutch customs and I'll have police at the door. This is not the case with Belgium or Germany, since these countries are part of the EU.
If there really are no German or Belgian websites that can sell me this gun, please tell me what to do, or what an american website can do for me so that it'll get past customs and there will be no trouble (I store my bb-guns in belgium, but I've ordered them to the netherlands and then brought them to belgium quickly)
Greetings from the (stupid) Netherlands
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Russian
Corporal
Magician
Posts: 923
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Post by Russian on Feb 24, 2008 22:10:04 GMT -5
Btw, getting my wood stock version either today or tomorrow. I'll throw up a quick review when I see it.
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jaeger
Private 1st Class
Posts: 478
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Post by jaeger on Feb 28, 2008 12:08:18 GMT -5
Any news on that wood stock yet? Thanks!
Nick
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Post by BURT "The Great" on Feb 28, 2008 13:30:27 GMT -5
The wood stock is of good quality and adds some nice poundage to the Kar98..... It also looks like they may have improved on the bolt assembly ..... www.airsoftcorner.com/AXIS.html
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Lev
Private 1st Class
Posts: 454
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Post by Lev on Feb 28, 2008 13:45:07 GMT -5
I ordered one of the wooden versions from Boom Arms a couple of weeks back as a late Xmas gift for my brother in law. While I only had it in my possession for a couple of days, I was able to do a bit of test shooting and get a good look at it. I've also seen the synthetic version of the gun so it was interesting to compare. With shipping from Hong Kong, it ran me $175. Overall, I'd say that you get what you pay for with this rifle. First the bad: - The wood is not high quality and the stain job is sub-par. In one spot there was even a concentrated glob of stain. You will want to refinish the stock. This, I imagine, would greatly improve its look. The artificial wood version of the gun looks better than the wooden one because the stain job is just so botched.
- The action is crunchy and not at all smooth. Some finishing work could probably improve this aspect.
- The bolt handle is not a very good representation of originals.
- It's shell loading. Not very practical for skirmishing.
- The fit of hardware is sloppy. The front barrel band can easily pop out of place because its fit with the wood is so poor (on this model of course, I doubt that all are like that).
The Good: - The rear of the bolt, including the safety, is well done.
- It's not a bad overall looking gun.
- It could be converted into a springer fairly easily.
- It' cheap.
- The shells don't go to far when you eject them, which will make retrieval easier.
In short, I'd say this could be a good gun if you're willing to spend some time with it. At a minimum you'll want to sand down and refinish the stock, work on the hardware/wood fit (do that before you stain), and polish up the burs in the action. If you're fairly handy, convert it to a springer. Sorry I didn't take any pictures before I sent it up to Bismarck. It will be at the Neillsville WI event in April. Hopefully it will have had some work done to it by then. -Udo
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Post by BURT "The Great" on Feb 28, 2008 15:12:31 GMT -5
I found that the stock is quite good. They did a great job on the staining of the gun and over all looks... The Stock is made from the same wood as the Tanaka KAR 98 stock...
I"ll put some pictures of the wood and the Plastic versions up tonight so you can compare the two. plus the weights of all 3 (D-Boy & Tanaka)
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Post by Obergefreiter Raimund on Feb 28, 2008 16:05:17 GMT -5
I’m going to test fire one of these tonight. Personally, I don’t see why the gun wouldn’t be a skirmish-able Airsoft riffle; at least in the manner I play. This is of course assuming the spring can be upgraded to have the gun shoot at least 400 to 500 fps.
Let me address a few perceived and stated problems with the gun.
1: ammunition limitations:
In my Tanaka Kar-98 I only load five BB’s per magazine. Therefore, I do not see how five shells are going to be any different. I will just have to catch the shells in my hand or pick them up. I know with the Marushin Mauser K.98 I was able to eject the shell into my hand and then pocket them.
The good thing I envision in using shells verse using magazines is that I will be able to put the shells into stripper clips and load them into my magazine pouches. Thus, I will be able to carry more ammunition on me that is ready to be used than I can with the three magazines and my two G33 magazine pouches. Here is some simple math:
Say I had two sets of G33 pouches on both sides of my belt. I can effectively, with one magazine loaded in my gun and assuming I continue to put five BB’s in each magazine, only carry 25 shots ready to be fired. Even if I put the maximum of ten BB’s in each magazine I only have 50 shots that are ready to be fired. Now, If I use stripper clips and shells with my ammo pouches I can effectively carry 60 ready to use shots.
2: Tough to skirmish with:
I think it is generally tough to skirmish using Airsoft single action or bolt action guns. I however fail to see why a shell ejecting gun would make it even more tough to skirmish. Perhaps I do not understand how people, and in what manner people, are using their K-98’s.
Personally, I wait until I have a clear 80% to 90% chance of hitting my target before I fire! I also make damn well sure that I am in excellent concealment or cover. When I’m not, I move to where I have the maximum amount of cover that has the most promising distance of effective firing range. Furthermore, I typically move under cover fire.
Anyway, I would like to hear form someone who is used to skirmishing with Airsoft bolt action guns and whom has taken the gun out and skirmished with it!
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Post by ukkolziasd on Feb 28, 2008 18:10:45 GMT -5
A decently upgraded bolt action rifle has a tremendous psychological effect on younger and more inexperienced players. Experienced adversaries just move in quickly as they know that it's hard to hit a moving target with a bolt action rifle. In a general airsoft game, the best way to play with a rifle is to stay in the back and support the team by taking out or pinning foes at longer range. A good rifle is actually an asset to the team. In WW2 games, it might be a different story. When your objectives are, say, to take a hill, you just advance, dashing from cover to cover and firing when given a chance. Covering fire is essential, as you said. Sometimes you just have to shoot at the enemy, even if the hit wouldn't be certain. Maybe it will hold him down just long enough so you can advance to a better position? On the other hand, he may pop up and shoot you, knowing you had your chance. I own two bolt action rifles, both are APS2 based hybrids: the Finnish M39 and Kar 98k. Both are quite similar in performance. In a Vietnam-themed game, we had a sneaky VC three man group, everyone carried an 98k. I had my springer, they had Tanakas. We usually managed to take the enemy completely by surprise and then vanished into the "jungle". I dropped a guard in a tower from some 60-70m away with the second shot. The first probably flew right over his head. At the same moment, the base was alerted and god did we run fast. We made several similar hit 'n' run strikes, and the rifles really proved their lethality at long range shots. It's also a great bonus to be able to shoot through a bit thicker bushes, as many players tend to hide behind them thinking they are safe. Of course, when using a high powered rifle, great caution must be taken when it's possible that you will engage enemies at closer range. Better no to engage at all. I really don't understand the need to put 500fps upgrades in, as they a) VERY severely limit your ability to fight at close range, and digging a backup from a holster is not always possible, b) it really puts the gun's internals and cocking handle to the test, c) makes the gun very hard to cock if it's a springer. I have had to do this in uncomfortable positions and it just wouldn't have been possible with a 500fps spring. I tend to keep the upgrades to a level where I still have an advantage in range (and naturally, accuracy) over most of the stock AEGs, but can engage in a relatively close range if required. The shells might be a problem when you have to fire in quick succession. It's also pretty annoying to lose them. I imagine this could happen very easily. They also do not sit tightly against the hop-up unit, so there might be variations in fps, affecting range and accuracy.
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Post by Obergefreiter Raimund on Feb 29, 2008 10:06:24 GMT -5
Alright, As promised I did quite a bit of test firing (over 150 shots) with the wood version of the DBoyi Karabiner 98 Kurz KAR98K of which I bought last night from AirsoftCorner.com. I also did some tinkering with Josh in upgrading the spring. A mere cost of about $20.00 and an estimated hour of work. Although, it took us longer than that because we had to figure it out.
Overview of the finish:
Overall the finish, for the price of the gun, isn’t at all bad. And, like others have already mentioned the wood stock is the same wood stock as the Tanaka K.98 of which I am already very impressed and happy with. However, I still might refinish it as I’d like a slightly lighter stain.
Performance:
The stock version shoots better than I suspected it would. And, as some have already mention, a shot here and there will have varying range and fps. This is to be expected, but can be minimized! Last night I put over 150 rounds through the gun at different distances with an upgraded spring in it. I’d say 80% to 90% of my shots hit my man sized target’s chest at and between 175 to 200ft away. I was shooting from indoors out to a small pine tree with a piece of cardboard and a regular piece of printing paper attached to the tree. For me, this is acceptable performance! The Bolt action is as smooth as to be expected. The Bolt and bolt assembly feel and appear to be rigged.
The Shell ejection is great! You can either let the shells fly out a foot or two or pull them out with your middle finger and palm them as I mentioned before. It takes practice to do it quickly but it is very possible and perhaps more practical than picking the shells up off of the ground.
The Shells do get scraped-up if you do not sand down the burs along the shells injection path. This is true! However it is extremely simply to fix with a bit of sanding and by greasing the injection pathway.
verdict:
You will see be seeing me out on the Airsoft field with my DBoy Kar 98 this season! Given, I’ve upgraded the spring and will be putting a riffled tight-bore barrel in the gun… both upgrades keep the gun still well under $400.00 dollars allowing one to get more shells!
Personally, I think it isn’t limited as a skirmish-able bolt action Airsoft riffle at all. It might not be as good as some of the other spring gun conversions out there… but, it is cheap enough, reliable enough and neat enough to try it out!!!
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Post by Garrick Udet on Feb 29, 2008 11:18:28 GMT -5
majorray, Have you chrono'd it with the upgraded spring? I'd be interested to see if you're getting up into the 425-475 fps range that's comparable with some of the other springers (Ersatzjack's to be precise) that I've seen.
I'm probably going to go with a k98 as my next gun as it would be great for both a German rifleman and a civilian/partisan impression.
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Post by Obergefreiter Raimund on Feb 29, 2008 11:43:17 GMT -5
majorray, Have you chrono'd it with the upgraded spring? I'd be interested to see if you're getting up into the 425-475 fps range that's comparable with some of the other springers (Ersatzjack's to be precise) that I've seen. I'm probably going to go with a k98 as my next gun as it would be great for both a German rifleman and a civilian/partisan impression. I will get the Chrono results up after the weekend and after I add a little more FPS with the riffled tight-bore barrel. ;D
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