click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
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Post by click on Mar 25, 2008 14:38:19 GMT -5
2nd Bat and others who have completed a custom M1- I would PM you guys, but I think that a lot of others could benefit if there was a list of needed Garand parts just posted up on the forum. Plus I really want to know ;D I am thinking of tackling this as a start to a USMC in Korea impression So what is needed to make an M1 not including tools (but you can throw those in too if you want) This is what I have found out so far: Garand Parts: Front Hand guard Rear Hand guard Gas Cylinder thingy (what is the name of this thing) Other: TM/AGM M14 Bondo Stain What else? Click
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 26, 2008 0:53:07 GMT -5
Shoved way back here in the Garand Tech section this thread hasnt been seen much so...
*BUMP*
Click
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Post by binarypunisher on Mar 26, 2008 1:19:30 GMT -5
Shoot me an email, I have a present.
binarypunisher@gmail.com
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 26, 2008 2:10:09 GMT -5
Email shot...;D
Click
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 26, 2008 2:37:53 GMT -5
Thanks a bunch man!
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biged
Master sergeant
Posts: 468
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Post by biged on Mar 26, 2008 5:24:45 GMT -5
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 26, 2008 5:28:40 GMT -5
Found it already. Thanks alot though! Quick question though, would this be an ok gun to start with for a beginner custom builder? I paint and build models although rarely from scratch and I don't convert/customize them that often. I guess you sould say that I am detailed and somewhat creative but I have never worked on a project of this size before.
Click
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 27, 2008 22:36:28 GMT -5
You'd be the only one to be able to answer that. It's not an especially hard conversion (especially after the first thirty or so.)
The parts needed is a quality base M14 (I prefer the Marui, AGM or Cyma) A Garand set of handguards (upper and lower with all the hardware) A complete gas reservoir assembly with front site, stacking swivel, muzzle lock and muzzle nut. a dowel to shape and use to finish off the gas tube and help secure the gas reservoir. Some misc screws and a bracket you make from the M14 and convert. Resin paste, sand paper, stain and some touch up paint are all you really need.
Tools are a drill, a dremel, a rasp, some stor sticks a cloth rag and some latex glooves. Some people use both stock ferrules including the one with the sling hardware but I find them problematic since I like to be able to rack the bolt. (Even though it doesn't have any function) Some of the ACM shotty mags and a few enblock clips and that's really all you need.
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 28, 2008 1:52:22 GMT -5
Thanks 2nd Bat, I have a question about those ferrules exactly. I noticed on the site that I am thinking of getting Garand parts from, that there are two kinds. With and without the sling hardware as you mentioned. Which one should I get? You said something in your post above that some people like to use both? Meaning one doesn't have to do that? Where exactly do they go on the gun? Are they like stock bands?
Click
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 28, 2008 18:31:33 GMT -5
If you look at the blow up illustration of all the Garand components from one of the earlier posts it should be self explanatory. If used they actually link together. One (the one with the sling hardware) goes at the front of the cut down lower stock from the M14 The other attaches to the rear of the forward handguard and the upper grooved section become a female link for the forward section of the thin rear handguard.
The challenge with both these ferrules is they leave allowances on their lower surfaces for the Garand gas tube which threads through the lower loop on both of them. Unfortunately this grooved hole is too small in diameter for the M14 gas tube which moves in and out as you rack the bolt. To use them you will have to seriously file out this groove and in so doing eliminate the lip that is designed to fasten the two together. This of course makes no sense unless you're looking at the parts and know how they attach.
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YankeeDiv26
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Frustrated Mac Owner
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Post by YankeeDiv26 on Mar 28, 2008 18:50:03 GMT -5
Click, if you want to skip the build process alltogether, PM me. My m1's currently for sale (price is slightly negotiable).
As for using an m1 sling ferule, that's what I did to mine. I simply skipped doing work to the gas tube and put a big bolt in its place with a few washers and tightened it. It won't let you rack the bolt, but on an airsoft gun, that's no biggie. I could always cut down the gas tube, put another end peice on it, and cut down the spring, but frankly I just don't feel like doing it. What I have works fine. I like it because it makes the sling hardware seem a lot more authentic and holds up 10x as well as the moved m14 sling mount (mine simply snapped off). I also put a few brackets inside the gun that just makes the overall build rock solid, and a small set screw on the gas assembly, which works much better than the old tape method.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 28, 2008 20:42:54 GMT -5
It's true, simply buying yankee divs garand would save you a ton of work and I know he did a great job on his revisions. Many of his adaptations were incorporated into my later assemblies.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 28, 2008 20:50:17 GMT -5
For those referencing Big Eds diagram. The parts you need for the conversion are: Parts, 35, 34, 33, 32, 31, 23, 22, 21, 49, 48, 24, 25 With optional parts being: 50, 36 and 4.
I hope that helps. The parts that have to be modified somewhat are the handguards, The lower handguard (skinny one) extensively. The upper large handguard slightly (make room for the sliding gas tube from the M14) The gas reservoir has to be slightly drilled out to accomodate the M-14 barrel and drilled to facilitate a set screw to hold it in place solidly. You have do quite a bit of modification to the M14 lower stock and remove and fill the butt plate flap.
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
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Post by click on Mar 29, 2008 8:19:15 GMT -5
Yankee, thanks for the offer for me to make an offer But I think I want to try out my own custom job on this one. 2nd Bat thanks for that tidbit of info. that is another thing on my list of things to find out that I can check off: What needs modified. I still dont understand why parts 50 and 36 are optional. it has the lower sling mount on it and in that pic from Finland all of the guys have there slings attached at that point. Did they add that themselves or did you make those with "parts 36 and 50"? Dont they go together to create the sling swivel? Pics would really help on this one. Click
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 29, 2008 11:42:46 GMT -5
Most (but not all) of the Finnish guys bought completed fully assembled guns from me. A few bought kits with all the components and the complete assembly instructions and built them themselves. On their rifles I used the upper sling hardware from the M14 and simply relocated it. While not perfect it looks pretty good and takes a pretty keen eye to spot the difference.
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 29, 2008 12:47:01 GMT -5
Ok I think I get it. Do you have any pics of both?
Click
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