2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 15, 2008 18:26:35 GMT -5
I've never messed up the base rifle components although I have found some ways to insure better precision for a better functional outcome. Items I have messed up are a bunch of actual lowers stocks thrying to make them work and the actual Garand handguards getting them to fit properly and look right.
The thin lower handguard has to be modified somewhat as does the larger upper handguard and you want to take care to do them well and not mess the parts up. The tyhin lower handguard has to be shaped to fit and the rail area cut slightly as well as shortening the overall length. The handguard splits quite easily without care when using the M14 clip to hold it into place. The Larger upper handguard needs the lower channel enlargened somewhat back where the three inch section of M14 gas tube port slides in and out otherwise your bolt won't function.
Bondo pasting the stock bolts and channels left exposed once the butt plate flap is removed is a little tricky to make cosmetically acceptable but without the effort just doesn't look right.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Jul 16, 2008 11:02:34 GMT -5
I'm going to devise an alternate way for the bolt to attach to the barrel, as the current way causes trouble with the Stock Swivel assembly - If I figure something out, I'll post pictures.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jul 16, 2008 12:03:52 GMT -5
Thanks seff! That sounds great.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Jul 16, 2008 12:22:58 GMT -5
Thanks seff! That sounds great. My idea is to add a stationary mounting on the bolt that slides on the barrel, as opposed to having a stationary mounting on the barrel wherein the bolt slides. I have also put serious consideration into making a new barrel so I can add slits for the gas cylinder mounting lugs, as well as carving a thread for the gas cylinder lock to mount upon, while still having the proper length of barrel (extended out from the gas cylinder). I bought the upper (thin) handguard with its own clip, do you guys usually use the M14 handguard clip instead? I was going to add slits further up on the M14 barrel mounting to accommodate the authentic M1 barrel clip.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 16, 2008 23:40:19 GMT -5
I dremel in cuts further up on the shroud above the barrel but still shorten the rear portion of the handguard slightly and hence have to shave and shape the inside channel a bit. In addition you have to shorten the forward end and reshape it to slide into the bracket and redo the bolt charging handle groove a little bit. (Sounds harder than it is.) The heat shield hand guard is somewhat delicate however (especially when remounting the clip) so be careful. I used to simply cut down the backside and extend the charging handle groove but I found visually the hand guard clip appeared too far back on the rifle. (M14 vs M1 difference)
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jul 17, 2008 6:15:43 GMT -5
Well the guy I bought them from is out of stock so either I'll cancell the order or wait till he gets restocked which could be as long as two weeks.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 19, 2008 13:02:21 GMT -5
One of the bummers about the Internet is that everyone and his brother seems to want to be a retailer and price seems to drive everything. The cheapest prices genrally are an indication that something is off. Either shipping is going to hose you or as often as not the low low price simply doesn't have the item in stock. Sometimes one is surprised pleasantly but it seems to be rare.
Currently Evike seems to be the only one with the base shotgun clips in stock that you use to modify your clips and naturally their prices is the highest. I just ordered a couple dozen that I needed to fill orders and netted out at slightly above $8.00 a piece by the time they got here.
I got a bunch of handguard sets and other items from Sarco (I waited to let Sgt Tom get a chance to get his order in!) and while some what slow to get them to me they are excellent and represented a great price Thanks for the lead and I recommmend them as an excellent source for anyone doing their own conversion.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jul 19, 2008 14:16:05 GMT -5
well I decided to eBay the handguards but I think I might have been better off getting them from sarco.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 19, 2008 23:12:04 GMT -5
I believe 99% of the time you're way better off with a main line supplier. The handguards are not finished but are available either with all the hardware or without. You want to get them with the hardware. Finishing the wood is fun in my opinion and I love matching the lower wood. Either modified plastic or the real wood lowers. I also prefer when my customer want their guns somewhat "field used" I think they look better with a bit of deliberate aging and I enjoy sending each gun out unique that way. They look fien all pristine as well but somehow look wrong out on the airsoft field and in pictures.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jul 20, 2008 10:07:10 GMT -5
Well I got two front handguards from eBay without metal for 10$ I hope to get two rear ones for 20$ and the all the ferules for 30$. I am going to a couple of gun shows soon so I hope to have luck there.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 7, 2008 11:18:43 GMT -5
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNhbpXQhauY This guy made his blowback. He says" Quote"its a mechanical linkage from the piston, it involves cutting a slit in the gearbox and then attaching some nylon rope to the piston and joining it to the bolt, because the bolt is large and heavy it will only be any use on semi if you put it on full auto it WILL break . you need to use some form of rope,string because obviously the piston will move faster forward than the bolt , if you make a solid linkage then it also Will break. it does not affect fps at all and i have used this a lot now and had no problems , in fact i have many guns and even though i can only use this on semi it is now my favorite i use this as a sniper rifle so i only use it on single , it will work on auto but because the bolt is heavy and has a strong spring i can see it causing damage to the gearbox very quickly, i actually used this today in a skirmish for the first time and it was great to use it has a nice kick to it.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 11, 2008 9:13:18 GMT -5
I have a question is the M1D Rear Handguard the same as the regular M1 rear Handguard?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Aug 11, 2008 19:08:15 GMT -5
No it is shorter. It can however be adapted to work for your purposes just fine. Doing the blowback adaptation is a modification that is not simply destined to fail but merely a question of how long it will take.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 11, 2008 19:20:13 GMT -5
I decided not to even try getting my M14 to blow back mainly because the bolt broke just from cocking it back so a blow back system would really do it in.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 12, 2008 11:39:21 GMT -5
Well I am ordering a the Hand guards with metal from SARCO for 32.00 and I just one a M1 Gas Cylinder with front sight and swivel for $30.74. s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh11/Fighten3rd/?action=view¤t=7e26_1.jpg I am wondering if you can shorten a Hi cap mag? I am going to get shot gun mags when there back in stock on RSVO but I want to convert the mag that came with my gun if possible. Thanks again guys.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Aug 12, 2008 18:40:23 GMT -5
You want to remember to order the Lower Band and Stock Ferrule, they're not included in the handguard package from SARCO. I dremel in cuts further up on the shroud above the barrel but still shorten the rear portion of the handguard slightly and hence have to shave and shape the inside channel a bit. In addition you have to shorten the forward end and reshape it to slide into the bracket and redo the bolt charging handle groove a little bit. (Sounds harder than it is.) The heat shield hand guard is somewhat delicate however (especially when remounting the clip) so be careful. I used to simply cut down the backside and extend the charging handle groove but I found visually the hand guard clip appeared too far back on the rifle. (M14 vs M1 difference) I'm having a custom barrel made to specifications, which means that I will have a correct length barrel, and thus will not need to shorten the rear handguard. I'm still working on the project of the charging handle, but it seems pretty straightforward.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Aug 12, 2008 19:00:40 GMT -5
The magazine that comes with the guns are hi cap and won't work. The effort shortening the existing low cap magazines from an M14 are way less than satisfactory in my opinion (having done roughly 100 of them) They involved a lot of work and stillended up protruding from the base of the gun which was visually distracting. The 870 flush shotgun mags are far and above the way to go especially if you plan to make a lot of them.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 13, 2008 7:52:25 GMT -5
I plan on making about 12 of them 6 for me 6 for my brother. And I thought I could use the M14 ferrule that would connect the lower handguard to the upper handguard. I just won a Gas Cylinder, Front Sight and Gas Lock for 37.99 including shipping!!
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 18, 2008 11:31:17 GMT -5
I received the Gas Cylinder and the SARCO Handguards today. I am very happy with the quality of the SARCO Handguards. I will try to make a custom barrel extension so I don't have to cut the handguards.
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KRaddatz
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Post by KRaddatz on Aug 18, 2008 13:15:32 GMT -5
just cut down the stock.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Aug 18, 2008 13:25:22 GMT -5
I know I am going to cut the stock, but I don't want to cut the handguards so I'll have to make a barrel extension.
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KRaddatz
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Post by KRaddatz on Aug 19, 2008 17:42:26 GMT -5
well what you really do, it take apart the thing holding the outer barrel, file down the little poke that holds the barrel pull barrel to desired length and screw barrel into the area the metal tab was.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Sept 3, 2008 7:58:48 GMT -5
I got my custom barrel made today, looks really good. Cost me about $100 in total. He still needs to treat the surface.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 3, 2008 8:09:28 GMT -5
Wow thats nice. I can't wait to see your finished product. As for me I am running into problems. I don't have the money to do what you did Seff so I took KRaddatz route barrel wise that is.
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KRaddatz
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Post by KRaddatz on Sept 12, 2008 15:44:07 GMT -5
yeah you get the same out come, if you want it to stick out like the realthing that steff paid $100 for, but a small peice of pipe and put it in the gas lock, simple.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 14, 2008 10:41:48 GMT -5
I really need help with this, How do you remove the reciever from the M14?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 14, 2008 13:00:35 GMT -5
Yikes! Sgt Tom think of all the hassles you're going through in time and trouble.
Follow the instructions with your CYMA owners manual to complete the field strip seperating your M14 receiver group from the stock. Be careful with the cyma (or Marui) to undo the small Tamiya clip that resides in the stock neck and routes from the motor. The AGMs don't have this small clip. They generally have clear tape holding the clip in place. With a dremel you could actually probably complete the stock conversion without even removing the receiver group and do the mods on the gun. Your cut is directly and immediately in front of the front sling hardware. Remove it and use the inside sling channel as a guide for where to cut. A cut there will provide a wonderful bulkhead wall right where you want it at the front of the now shortened stock.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 14, 2008 13:33:04 GMT -5
Well what I am trying to do is seperate it from the motor. So I can make the receiver look more garand like by sanding down some of the metal on it.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 23, 2008 12:49:06 GMT -5
You can grind down the M14 bolt release without seperating the motor and then fill with paste if that's what you want to do. You can even do it while still mounted to the stock if you careful. Tape it off and use a dremel. I've also seen people remove the M14 bolt release flap and fill over so it looks like the smaller inset Garand bolt release. I would recommend folks refrain from dissasembling the base rifle internal components if at possible. Incidently be sure to cover the mag well area prior to this work to reduce the likelihood of grit or dust entering the feed areas.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Sept 25, 2008 14:32:29 GMT -5
So far, so good. To do: - Parkerize outer barrel and maybe receiver - Stain the wood and stock to get a correct and similar color. - Fitting bolt, recoil spring, spring guide, and stock swivel. - Perhaps some bondo to attain a correct shape for the stock. - removing selector and mag release, as well as buttstock flap.
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