Here I will post my opinion on gear, whether to buy originals or repro. Uniforms
M42's:repro due to value and rarity M43's:original HBT's:original M41jackets: repros, due to cost
Cartridge belt:Original Pistol belt: original canteen:original suspenders:original T handle shovels:repro, due to high price of originals Folding shovel:original 1911 holster:repro, due to condition and price of originals musettes/haversacks:original Boots:original*cheaper than repros! helmet: meh, either. Prices vary a lot between originals and repros. liners:repros or rebuilt originals misc gear:original
Generally I think when you first start out originals are the way to go (unless you've got the money), simply because they're usually cheaper. Now that I have a little more money, from working, I'm trying to phase out my originals and save them for my collection and public displays. I don't have to feel guilty tearing apart repros in the field. So here's what I think at least for a beginner on somewhat of a budget:
M42's:repro due to value and rarity, haha ya people will kill you if they see you wearing an original m42 in the field . M43's:original HBT's:original M41jackets: repros, due to cost, and originals are very fragile due to the light material they were made from.
Cartridge belt:Original or repro, you could go either way on this sometimes originals get more expensive than repros. All depends. Pistol belt: original canteen:original, well there are no repro canteens... canteen covers: REPRO!! I see originals blow out all the time in the field. Not pretty. suspenders:original or repro - same reason as the cartridge belts T handle shovels:repro, due to high price of originals Folding shovel:original 1911 holster: original i think they generally tend to be cheaper than repros when u find a good deal, but heavy use on these isn't that great, so they should be replaced with repros eventually. musettes/haversacks:original Boots: repro, I just don't trust 60 year old leather, plus if you look on reenactor forums and stuff you can find some pretty good deals on repro boots. helmet: um postwar or wwii? either. postwar all you have to do is change the chinstraps and maybe paint it the correct wwii color, if it's way off, and it'll look fine. liners:repro - I like using this postwar belgian liner, virtually identical to US wwii one's and for $10 why not? misc gear:original
Remember folks original gear is 60+ years old. One day it will eventually give out on you if you beat it, be it tomorow, or 20 years from now. Treat it with respect. Its been "over there".
Last Edit: Mar 26, 2006 19:58:11 GMT -5 by Go4Broke
Well, then again here there is a lot of deals passing around with that store and swap meet and such. I got a defect inland liner for 10 bucks. I can get literally unissued boots for less than repros. And also, I usually get unissued or very lightly used gear for that reason exactly; they will give out...
Post by 5thrangerinfantry on Mar 28, 2006 7:49:01 GMT -5
There is other stuff that was made for the civilian market after the war that would work too. The only 2 things that I can think of right now are binoculars and a canteen - I have ones that are completely identical to originals - but they both say 'made in japan'
be sure to check reenactor and collector forums. I got my first pair of corcoran jump boots for $60 and they are in great condition.....
My mommy says I deserve a gold star for good work! -- Nimlas
deadcat7382: FNG in CT... thinking about getting into this... Have started building an FJ impression and a Red Devil one as well...
Feb 21, 2015 15:53:25 GMT -5
Dracul: CT is good location for WWII airsofting, a lot of the North East games are in the core North East area. Upstate NY, MA, CT, ME, VT, NH, and some in Jersey. Shouldn't have too much trouble getting to those places.
Feb 22, 2015 13:56:43 GMT -5
Dracul: Not like my team down here in MD where we have to drive the 6-7 hours to get up the Upstate New York games. The opposite of that is heading 10 or more hours south to play the events down there.
Feb 22, 2015 13:57:53 GMT -5
stuka: So has anybody actually bought the g&g m1 yet? I just looked at evikes listing and it was delyaed again?What the heck g&g... I know combatsports supply has/had them but did g&g only ship 1 batch or something
Feb 23, 2015 5:00:17 GMT -5
Dracul: Evike drops the ball on a lot of things on their website. Their webmaster sucks, really sucks. I wouldn't be surprised that their date for the G&G Garand was just flat out wrong.
Feb 26, 2015 17:10:02 GMT -5
soldierthrutime: nm fat finger got in the way
Feb 27, 2015 9:34:12 GMT -5
viper: I'd go for the event. Tom Kish is also a go. I'll see if Hornet is willing to make a go of it as well. viper
Mar 2, 2015 10:53:27 GMT -5
soldierthrutime: The top-cap on my STEN's stock MP-40 mag broke so the feed-hole is now twice as big. I was going to patch it with JBWeld and/or sheet styrene, but thought I'd ask about replacement parts first. suggestions?
Mar 6, 2015 17:31:38 GMT -5
Dracul: Just to get an idea from all of those who make Kar98 conversions? How much would you charge for just the work? Like if the Kar98 and a VSR-10 clone were sent to you.
Mar 7, 2015 14:27:00 GMT -5
efrimann: Any new G43 jobs or does anyone have a cast for the bolt/top?
Mar 7, 2015 18:37:01 GMT -5
Dracul: So, has anyone ever did the Hairy Apple's 1903 approach, but for a Kar98?
Mar 17, 2015 19:07:32 GMT -5
Dracul: No one? Well, going to try it out this weekend. Might finally have a good springer Kar98 that I made.
Mar 27, 2015 23:33:28 GMT -5
antonius augustus: I'd charge like 75 bucks but then again mine look like crap. They shoot good though
Apr 12, 2015 12:08:05 GMT -5