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Post by CharleyNovember on Nov 2, 2008 14:53:28 GMT -5
Yeah they could be Russian for it right now...keep them at bay. If you don't like the lame jokes you can Suomi.
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Nov 2, 2008 19:15:32 GMT -5
Thanks for your encouragement guys, The finish on the 1917A1 is Testor's (Buffable metalizer) Gunmetal color, Tamiya Gold was used for the brass and then washed with black/brown oils.
This gun model was made in early war natural finish (for a documentary film being shot next month about the Philippine Scouts). For a later war 1917A1 it would have had a parkerized finish (like that on the Ma Deux) or paint over. I am doing some photo test now to see how it looks on film then if needed add highlights or tone down some gloss if needed.
A 20mm Cannon for a 222... hmmmm. interesting idea.
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Post by troyluginbill on Nov 3, 2008 0:00:52 GMT -5
where did you get the plans for the cradle?
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Nov 3, 2008 7:15:00 GMT -5
where did you get the plans for the cradle? Hey Troy, I started with a picture of one the cradle side plates, scaled it to my 1917a1 plans and drew it from scratch. All parts were drawn from pictures I collected on the net and scaled against the actual rightside template drawing. The drawing of the parts takes longer than the actual build, this is true of all my custom builds.
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Post by troyluginbill on Nov 4, 2008 2:55:30 GMT -5
do you still have the plans? Are they emailable?
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Nov 4, 2008 10:19:17 GMT -5
do you still have the plans? Are they emailable? I do but they aren't really plans. They are more like templates for lazer cutting, there are no dimensions. Keep in mind that the drawings only provide a cut template for the base parts. All parts require lots of hand shaping and the use of tons of collected reference photos with added bits and pieces. I'm not sure if they would be much use to you for your own build as these are mated to my templates for the 1917/19 plates.
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Post by troyluginbill on Nov 6, 2008 1:50:23 GMT -5
Can they easily be copied and shipped? I would be interested in trying. I have one of killbuckets 1917s that I am accurizing.
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Post by schmitty on Dec 23, 2008 17:50:04 GMT -5
I had not noticed this thread until now but WOW!! Extremely nice work. Have you got that 1917 functioning yet? Being water cooled makes things easier because you can use the water jacket area to put stuff in (battery, gearbox or magazine).
Schmitty
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Dec 27, 2008 21:25:01 GMT -5
I had not noticed this thread until now but WOW!! Extremely nice work. Have you got that 1917 functioning yet? Being water cooled makes things easier because you can use the water jacket area to put stuff in (battery, gearbox or magazine). Schmitty Thanks schmitty, Not yet. I'm waiting till after I get the some other things out of way before I tackle the internals. Your probably right about the ease of getting the internal installed though. I just need to be careful and not make it to front heavy.
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Post by Guinness on Dec 28, 2008 0:07:02 GMT -5
Again, excellent work kalbs!
just a thought, if the drawings or lazer templates you used had dimensions added to them, they could also be used to cut aluminum right? so someone could make the gun out of that? or did I miss something as usual...
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Dec 28, 2008 21:26:37 GMT -5
Again, excellent work kalbs! just a thought, if the drawings or lazer templates you used had dimensions added to them, they could also be used to cut aluminum right? so someone could make the gun out of that? or did I miss something as usual... yes but would mean a redraw because the PVC templates were made to fit 6mm flat sheet and the fastening is designed around using adhesives. I drew the 1919a4 based on the real gun and re dimensioned and made block parts from built up sheets. If you wanted to mill or cast the parts lots would need to be drawn in 3D for machining. It could be done though. As an example, the right side plate on my 1919a4 was milled from Aluminum as were the markings. I did get one 1919a4 made in China from Aluminum and steel but what I found is that the fabricators are not too detailed. I wasn't too happy about the end result but it was definitely light and sturdy. This cost me around $400 by a Chinese manufacturer. See below for pictures of that attempt:
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Post by toboggan on Dec 28, 2008 22:10:26 GMT -5
Wow. that wouldnt stand out or anything?! lol but it still looks like a nice base to go off of, i've always wanted to build my own 1919 i made one out of wood, not detailed what so ever lol. but now i think want to try to mill one. i have plenty of access to cnc machines. but i wouldnt have the slightest idea as to how to calibrate it or make the dimensions to look real lol.
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biged
Master sergeant
Posts: 468
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Post by biged on Dec 29, 2008 17:11:44 GMT -5
That did turn out great!
It is a shame it was $400, the real 1919a4 demills ran for $300 but are getting scarce to find now.
///ed///
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Dec 29, 2008 20:10:45 GMT -5
That did turn out great! It is a shame it was $400, the real 1919a4 demills ran for $300 but are getting scarce to find now. ///ed/// true, but that included the steel tripod though which cannot be found for less than $300. My demill 1919 was $300 from Ohio Ordinance, really heavy for airsoft
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biged
Master sergeant
Posts: 468
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Post by biged on Dec 31, 2008 5:21:21 GMT -5
Now that is a deal!! $400 for a gun and tripod, I envy your location.
My 1919a4 is 15 lbs without a mag, or tripod. Some don't like it because of the weight, but since it was used in WW2 (I ran the serial numbers) it has more appeal.
///ed///
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Post by killbucket on Apr 10, 2009 19:51:30 GMT -5
I'm awestruck- NICE work!
That's the same PVC foam stock my guns used to be made of- Easy to work, but easy to break if you fall on it! Set a REAL ammo can on that, watch what happens.
And now you know why it takes me so long to make these things I lost so much money on.
This guy won't sell you one for even three times my prices.
That says it all. My offering WAS a bargain, and wasn't treated like one.
My prices just went UP.
NICE, NICE, NICE work.
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Post by Guinness on Apr 11, 2009 19:47:19 GMT -5
I'm awestruck- NICE work! That's the same PVC foam stock my guns used to be made of- Easy to work, but easy to break if you fall on it! Set a REAL ammo can on that, watch what happens. And now you know why it takes me so long to make these things I lost so much money on. This guy won't sell you one for even three times my prices. That says it all. My offering WAS a bargain, and wasn't treated like one. My prices just went UP. NICE, NICE, NICE work.
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Apr 12, 2009 23:29:46 GMT -5
I'm awestruck- NICE work! That's the same PVC foam stock my guns used to be made of- Easy to work, but easy to break if you fall on it! Set a REAL ammo can on that, watch what happens. And now you know why it takes me so long to make these things I lost so much money on. This guy won't sell you one for even three times my prices. That says it all. My offering WAS a bargain, and wasn't treated like one. My prices just went UP. NICE, NICE, NICE work.Sir, I'm not sure what this is about? I make these for myself and you're correct, not for sale. These PVC models are actually for the most part make for filming documentaries. The ammo cans are also made from the same material. Glad you like them though.
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Post by killbucket on Apr 14, 2009 12:06:59 GMT -5
I LOVE them!!
Very nice work, and yours eclipses my own. I'm very happy to see that you're keeping these for yourself, because PVC isn't going to win you friends if you sell them.
PVC is EXACTLY what you want for your purpose.
I tried hard to convey the limitations of the materials when used for skirmish. Still, I got beat up on the Forums for the lightweight nature of my artworks.
The average person who buys airsoft guns is very used to the high quality that MASS-PRODUCTION brings. A $139 gun actually looks quite good nowadays.
The average person buying HAND-MADE items is used to the earmarks of that, and the loss of precision that mass-production enables. This is part of having something that is truly one-of-a-kind. I have a collection of Erte` bronzes-none are perfect, but all are unique.
Unfortunately, I priced my offering to the first customer...and designed for the low pricing. BIG mistake.
At $500 -$800 per, I just can't make something to rival your work. That is clearly the light I stepped into, however.
And DEMAND was much higher than anticipated. The few large orders were more than offset by individual buyers. I rec'd over 50 orders in one month last year, and have just now caught up, with a high cost in standing among the airsoft community. Add a few supplier/vendor problems, some bad luck, and human laziness, it didn't go well.
Trying to do it ALL myself was a hard lesson.
I'm sure that the first thought in many heads upon seeing this post is "how much?".
Not many have what it takes to resist. I don't.
For knowing where you stand, my Hat's off to you!
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Post by Dees on Apr 14, 2009 15:00:08 GMT -5
If I an gives you a compliment like that, it means a lot man, and he isn't being sarcastic. Your works could be considered art, but the problem with the PVC is that they don't take as much abuse as some people will dish out to them.
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Apr 15, 2009 17:58:51 GMT -5
Did you guys miss this picture? not a bit of plastic in it PVC or ABS. Further, ABS has its problems too with expansion and warping in heat Chinese junk? Who gave us an affordable MP44, MP40, Kar98k and M1A1? Who makes the VFC BAR? For that matter who makes the majority of the consumer products in your home?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 15, 2009 18:46:18 GMT -5
I agree with Kalbs that we can no longer equate Chinese airsoft products with junk. They are very very good regardless of the price and in fact the price being so low simply indicates what a great value they are.
Our hope moving forward with regard to additional affordable period correct weapons lies with the Chinese and let's hope they continue to move forward. Your 30 Cal and tripod are amazing.
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Post by Dees on Apr 15, 2009 21:27:33 GMT -5
Things are getting better all around.
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Apr 15, 2009 22:13:45 GMT -5
Please ... let us not make this thread a "I do/don't like China". It's way off topic and all I was doing was sharing my works. Like it or not that's fine with me. Enhancment ideas or ways to improve the projects are always appreciated. If there is a better way of doing the same project then please by all means share or start a new thread as others have done.
I build for fun and friends only, my reward comes from self satisfaction.
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Post by Dees on Apr 16, 2009 1:00:05 GMT -5
You are right, I am going back through and deleting my posts, and apologize for letting a little angst get into my posts. I do want to say, you are doing outstanding work, and I love the pictures you put up, you show a lot of ingenuity and initiative in your builds and should be highly commended on them! Here is a picture of the M1919A6 I did for the first Jump to Destiny, all steel and aluminum with an M249 gearbox and hop-up unit and an Inokatsu style feed system; I did use an Israeli A6 kit on it, which is not technically period, but it was available to use as a template for future builds. I no longer have this, and it was the only one made from my design (long story, don't ask, unpleasant). The only problems I had with the design were making sure the barrel to receiver interface was strong enough to support the weapons weight on a bipod and making the trigger switch function with a realistic trigger. To compensate for the weapons weight and the outer barrel being made out of aluminum, it used a combination of the course pipe thread going into the steel barrel block of the receiver and the heat shield of the barrel was made out of steel and functioned as a captive support by screwing on the muzzle. The trigger ended up being a seperate piece of angle steel that was cut down and drilled/tapped for holding a M249 trigger switch that aligned with the arm of the trigger, which was supported by a spring to keep it from making contact when not being fired. The one thing I wish I could have done differently was the feed being welded on hastily, so there was a lot of slag on the receiver and I was not happy with the appearance. On the plus side, I can always build another one later, and fix the problems that I had found in my initial design, but I have enough other projects in the works, and still need to get my hands on a lathe/mill combo, so it will be a while before I do this again. Oh, one idea on the bottom plate; I used a piece of angle that was cut to make not only a mount for the gearbox but also controlled the headspace on the hop-up unit, so it killed multiple birds with one stone. Just make sure to cut multiple "steps" into the side of the angle that will be the left side support for the gearbox, and once you get a chance to look at it, you will see where they need to be, the knobs on the side of the gearbox are pretty obvious.
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Apr 16, 2009 1:22:14 GMT -5
Dees,
Do you have anymore drawings or detailed pics of the internal set-up of you 1919? I have a real (gutted )A4 sitting in my closet waiting for this exact conversion.
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Post by Dees on Apr 16, 2009 2:55:18 GMT -5
Dees, Do you have anymore drawings or detailed pics of the internal set-up of you 1919? I have a real (gutted )A4 sitting in my closet waiting for this exact conversion. No, sorry, I just built it through trial and error, but I know I can do it again pretty easily. I will see about putting it down on paper, but I warn you, I really mean paper, as I don't have a CAD program and just never liked doing it on a computer (doesn't feel "right" to me). What kind of problems are you having, maybe I can help?
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Apr 16, 2009 8:46:58 GMT -5
No problems, just never finalized the project. The biggest issue would be what hop-up was used and how it is set in the recever
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Post by Dees on Apr 16, 2009 22:40:46 GMT -5
No problems, just never finalized the project. The biggest issue would be what hop-up was used and how it is set in the recever The trick for me was making a block that used the existing slots on the M249 hop-up as centering studs, then making sure it mounted properly to the gearbox, which wasn't so bad using the collar and spring that push the hop-up into the gearbox airseal step around the nozzle. I would recommend mounting the block to the bearbox mounting plate, then just letting the spring push it back onto the tabs and letting the spring do the work for you; it makes it a LOT easier to disassemble and also keep things properly aligned. I copied the feed collar on the side of my Inokatsu M60 and welded it to the side of the receiver in a position that met up with the BB feed for the hop-up, which you will end up needing to drill at a slight angle in the block for it to feed properly. A simple method, which would be an improvement over mine and easier to make, would be to make the feed block seperate from the mounting stand, use a piece of angle that is cut down and tapped top and bottom, so you can screw it to the gearbox mounting plate and use set screws to hold it to the top of the angle in position for feeding. Another method would be to use automotive brake line, permanently mount the tube to the hop-up unit and then thread the other end of it. Make the collar a "nut" by threading the inside of it to work with the outside of the brake line and use the combination of them to complete the feed unit.
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Post by joeska on Jul 22, 2009 15:55:35 GMT -5
Wow both look freeking great i wish i had the time for that (Cheap lazy b... you get the idea.)
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