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Post by timetodoit on Feb 7, 2010 15:16:26 GMT -5
Hi there guys!! Everything is coming to me...I've ordered the m1 parts and found 15 acm shotgun mags they are arriving this week so... I'm now ready to start my conversion!!! But.......I'm very noobish at this type of works, and really don't understand totally all the PDF about the basic conversion, so... I'm here getting all my STEP by STEP doubts that I get... Hope someone helps me out!! But before I start some basic doubts... 1- Is this the EXACT place to cut the stock? (check 1st image)2- All the conversions I see I don't understand how everything "clicks".. what I mean is how everything holds up? 3- Will I be able to use the sling ?! 4- I've seen this conversion on a french forum... do I need a longer outer barrel?! (check 2nd image)Ok this is just my first step please reply so I can start it
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 7, 2010 16:35:18 GMT -5
If you make your cut at the point you indicated in the first picture you will not need the small barrel extension required in the lower picture. If you cut the M14 stock somewhat further out (technically more correct for a Garand) you will need an extension. I recommend a slight compromise here for a couple reasons. One, simplicity and without a lengthened inner barrel (its already quite long) you invite challenges with BB travel. If you can live with a rifle that is 1,1/4 inches too short. (I can) make the cut where you indicated. The other advantage about that cut location on the M14 stock is there is a natural inner bulkhead at that location which I like to take advantage of. Cut just to the outside of it.
Whether you're attach the M14 sling hardware or use Garand hardware (provided they are securely attached) you'll have no problem using the sling. I had a problem with some early sling attachements and do take care to make this robust. Over engineer your attachment. Use screws and a good epoxy.
Proud of you for taking this on. Good luck I'm sure it will go fine.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 7, 2010 17:12:17 GMT -5
Thank you so much for replying! You are a "GOD" in this business of converting the Garand so thank you so much for helping me out!
Continuing... So I will cut it right after the bulk (basically where I marked in the picture right?) The part about the sling, so I can drill the plastic in that location (after the cut of course) with no problem? I guess I'll have to see everything in my hands to understand what's "going on" in that area
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Post by volkssturm on Feb 7, 2010 20:36:44 GMT -5
Thanks. You answered a question I just encountered as I was trying on the front handguard and gas tube and saying "Wha'the..."? I missed the memo about the barrel being short. So then it's kosher to make the gun shorter than RS. ;DMakes life simpler.
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Post by CharleyNovember on Feb 7, 2010 21:24:54 GMT -5
I made a new longer outer barrel....
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 8, 2010 8:07:01 GMT -5
Well is it really hard to find a bigger outer barrel?!? I mean like going to homedepot and find those metal tubes and just cut it to the size I want right?
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Post by CharleyNovember on Feb 8, 2010 12:46:37 GMT -5
That is what I did. I used copper tubing I forget exactly what the OD was but you want something pretty close to the M14 OD obviously. You need to drill a hole in the rear that a pin fits in from the M14 reciever and you will need to gring with a dremel a slight bit to make the copper pipe fit the reciever as it is ever so slightly bigger than your m14 barrel. you add barrel guides inside the copper pipe and attach it all. It is quite solid and not as hard as it may sound to do. Not as easy as just cutting the M14 a little short though.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 8, 2010 13:06:25 GMT -5
This is absolutely a personal taste issue. Note with every compromise there are additonal challenges. If you cut the stock at that point you will also have to slightly cut down your heat sheild handguard. (the thin one) You need to cut down the length and the charging handle slide groove. With CNs approach you avoid that but then have to deal with the replacement loner outerbarrel and insuring that your gas assembly kits onto it and it is solidly mounted. Both approaches present their own challenges.
As for the sling hardware when you place it inward you will ant to first file the M14 stock into a flat surface where the hardware would mount. Drill and tap small holes and I both screw and epoxy for added strength. In addition I extend my resin stock augmentation over the sling hardware so it doesn't show and wanted to thicken the stock there anyway. This I supose also further strengthens it although as I discovered without the screws may not hold adequately.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Feb 8, 2010 14:50:42 GMT -5
I went the expensive way and got a custom barrel made on order, which made the length fit and ensured that the gas cylinder would never go anywhere - but it DID cost me $100. I also opted to make the op-rod longer so it rode inside the gas cylinder, making the balance (with a big battery in the stock) very close to how the M1 is balanced. Finally, I glued veneer on the outside of my original plastic stock, which works, but isn't perfect by any means.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 8, 2010 19:14:21 GMT -5
I like the balance of the rifles with a battery. To me they just feel right. They feel like a rifle! Incidently the stock augmentation piece I've created and molded is a huge time saver. My version when done weighs 7 1/2 pounds which while heavy for an airsoft rifle seems just about right to me. The Garand at 9 1/2 gets really heavy in a hurry. Funny how a couple pounds can make so much difference. I tried the veneer route and Seff you are better man than I. What a nightmare. Yours came out great I think.
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Post by hairy apple on Feb 8, 2010 20:54:05 GMT -5
I do find your M1s very "right" feeling. Well ballanced and it just feels WW2 when your looking down the sights at someone with an M1. I bought one of yours second hand a while ago and I love that gun... so does everyone who sees it. Sadly I never get to use it anymore becuase Danielle also loves it and is her perfered gun.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 8, 2010 22:36:11 GMT -5
I've always respected girls who prefer long rifles and know how to handle them.
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Post by hairy apple on Feb 8, 2010 22:41:01 GMT -5
Honestly, when it comes to real guns, she's a hell of a shot... she's better then I am although she'd never admit it.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 9, 2010 11:06:18 GMT -5
Hi again! thank you so much for all the replies!! I guess I'm gonna follow 2nd bat and cut it where I marked it! I can live with that shortage so I don't have a problem with the outerbarrel... it's barely noticeable
About the sling part I still have my doubts I guess I have to see it to understand it! Also could anybody post a picture of this section in detail? Thank you so much once again!
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Feb 9, 2010 13:44:33 GMT -5
I tried the veneer route and Seff you are better man than I. What a nightmare. Yours came out great I think. Hahah, I wish I could take the honor for that, but it was my father that did THAT piece of fine surgery. I doubt I'd do that if I was making a second AEG Garand, though. If I ever made another Garand I'd be looking into CO2 and modifying the Marushin. Most of all I just really wish china would make a Garand of some kind.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 12, 2010 15:19:39 GMT -5
Hey guys! Finally received the parts and now I have more doubts lol So...... basically I have is this.... (check first pic) I'm just missing the Stock Ferrule Assembly.... but that's one of my doubts.. Do I really need one??? since I'm gonna use my M14 sling part instead.... Doubt number two... I just tested the Gas Assembly in the barrel just to see how everything goes.... and it won't go more...Do I have to force it? (Check pic 2) Also the paste 2NDbat uses to mold the body more "fat" is it like Fiber Glass?
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 12, 2010 17:49:44 GMT -5
The Gas Cylinder won't fit. If you look there are three nubs in the Gas Cylinder, to get it to fit you have to make three slots in the barrel for the nubs to slide into. If you can't get the stock ferrule to work I'll buy it from you, name the price.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 12, 2010 18:37:45 GMT -5
Any technical tip to make the 3 stripes on my barrel?!
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 12, 2010 18:46:17 GMT -5
Look where the nubs are then make markings with a pencil. Then use a dremel tool with thin sanding disks to make the slots.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 12, 2010 18:59:33 GMT -5
Thanks SGTTOM Ok I just encounter a problem! I can fit the Gas Assembly up to a point.... but... heres the problem: I have to cut this little part to fit in right??? So If the gun shorter like 2ndbat said...and if so I have to insert the Gas Assembly even more right? -
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 12, 2010 19:03:22 GMT -5
You can also extend the barrel if you don't want to cut the handguard. If you extended the barrel you would need to make the slit for the handguard longer.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 12, 2010 19:34:38 GMT -5
Hmm I will extend that to make it fit then! Thanks!!
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 12, 2010 20:16:24 GMT -5
If you need any help tell me.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 14, 2010 13:10:39 GMT -5
Hi again!! I've done the basic stock CUT in the sling area just like my first picture on the top of the topic, also I used some sort of boat fiber glass to mold the stock more garandish... not yet finished...waiting for it to settle! Tomorrow I will make the extended cut in the metal part so I can insert the Rear Handguard, also I will paint it.....but before..... ONE doubt here... as I said before I wanna use the M14 Sling attachment...but where I cut the stock it's very near a Metal part so I don't have room to install the sling attachment.... any tips?!?! heres a picture of the process
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 14, 2010 14:43:44 GMT -5
Your work on the butt stock flap area looks great. A little final finish work and paint and that area is done. I have used a wide variety of resin pastes to create the augmented stock areas and for my purposes have found the 3M product BONDO Glass with an applied stain works best. Regular automotive bondo sands and shapes easier but it is not as resilient and durable when faced with hard use. The Bondo glass is for marine applications and with tiny fiberglass filler inside is extremely tough. I have used other Marine fillers however and the glass elements were to large and not easily sanded which required shaping and a bit of surface cover with regular bondo. To make the bondo much stronger and to facilitate the shaping I drilled multiple holes in the stock and inserted tiny screws creating the general shape you wanted (espcially in the thin walls above the mag well area.) These screws provide a great deal of strength. With my kit I provide a large pre shaped section of plastic that attaches directly onto the stock (Epoxy and then place a few screws from inside the stock into the plastic) You then use filler to finish off the seams and complete the shaping although the bulk of your shape is pre-done. Without this augmented piece the process of building up the stock is pretty labor intense with multiple layers applied to build up the shape and lots of sanding.
On the thin handguard, Indeed it does need to be shortened somewhat. However unlike your picture, I cut down the front end away from the clip so it fits into your ferrule and doesn't revise the location of your handguard clip. Also if you cut the rear portion you will have to file or dremel out the channel to fit over the inner hump. To further fit, the charging handle channel will also need to revised somewhat on your shortend stock. (Continue the channel forward a tiny bit) Use a file or dremel to do this. As for the channel in the receiver group shown in your picture. Obviously as you have surmissed that channel needs to be extended well forward to accomodate the Garand handguard clip. I figure out exactly where once the handguard is aligned and use a dremel to dig an appropriate small channel well forward of where the current one stops. Dab some pinat on to prevent rust on the now exposed metal. As for the barrel tip you need to dremel the channels, file down the threading on the barrel tip or drill out the gas assembly somewhat in order for that piece to come together.
You're doing great incidently.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 14, 2010 15:59:20 GMT -5
Thank you so much for the reply 2ndBat! I think I don't need to cut the Handguard in anyplace! I just need to extend with a dremel that channel so I can fit the metal part of the handguard in!
Well I didn't use any screws to help shape but I think that it will hold! That thing is strong like stone!
Just one thing I'm a bit worried about is the Sling part... I will take pictures tomorrow and post here to I can better explain my self!
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Feb 14, 2010 16:11:09 GMT -5
I didn't cut any of my ferrules, bands or handguards. I'll take pictures if you're interested.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 14, 2010 18:05:16 GMT -5
Please do so in detaiL! that would help me a lot!! thank you so much!
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Feb 14, 2010 20:10:43 GMT -5
Aiight, I will do so tomorrow. It's 2 AM here, I'm not taking my beauty apart now.
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Post by timetodoit on Feb 15, 2010 5:24:03 GMT -5
Hehe ok no problem! Thanks!
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