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Post by 7thhorsesoldier on Feb 24, 2012 12:57:34 GMT -5
Hey all, It looks like theirs alot of these same questions on here so I apologize for posting another one. Anyways, I'm already doing civil war cavalry reenacting but I'm going to have to put a hold on that because I don't have a horse anymore. I'm in the process of converting my CYMA M14 into a M1 Garand. My question to you is how is the easiest way to convert it so it looks decent? How to do the mags? Bondo? l have lots more questions in the future but thats it for now. Thanks! Chris P.s. I'll update with pics.
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HornetWSO
Private 1st Class
"We may not have a history, but we have a rendezvous with destiny!"
Posts: 551
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Post by HornetWSO on Feb 24, 2012 13:23:58 GMT -5
Hey all, It looks like theirs alot of these same questions on here so I apologize for posting another one. Anyways, I'm already doing civil war cavalry reenacting but I'm going to have to put a hold on that because I don't have a horse anymore. I'm in the process of converting my CYMA M14 into a M1 Garand. My question to you is how is the easiest way to convert it so it looks decent? How to do the mags? Bondo? l have lots more questions in the future but thats it for now. Thanks! Chris P.s. I'll update with pics. Sorry to hear your horse is gone! Regarding building a Garand, it's not as hard as you may think. The knowledge your are seeking is in these links. A lot of people have taken the time to write things down for others to learn from. . . . without trying to sound like a jerk, please take the time to read these tutorials.
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Post by 7thhorsesoldier on Feb 24, 2012 16:22:06 GMT -5
Oh, thats okay. I'm training another horse right now, but he won't be ready for a year or two.
You don't sound like a jerk! I've read just about everything on the net and forum. I think I'm pretty well prepared but I'm just wondering if their are some big no no's I should know before I start butchering this thing up. Of is it pretty fool proof?
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HornetWSO
Private 1st Class
"We may not have a history, but we have a rendezvous with destiny!"
Posts: 551
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Post by HornetWSO on Feb 24, 2012 17:26:57 GMT -5
it's really not too terribly difficult, (caveat) if you have the parts needed . you need to cut the M14 stock to length, but a little trick can make this easy. While looking down on top of the stock, pay attention to the point just behind the forward sling swivel, there's a "bulkhead inside the stock. I cut the stock just in front of this bulkhead, so I can leverage the surface area this bulkhead provides for gluing the new stock ferule tip. Then I put the action into the stock, and put the rear handguard on. Now I can see how much needs to be added to the tip of the stock so the ferule will be aligned while holding the rear handguard in place. (The real Garand stock ferule will slip over the front end of the M14 stock.) Since the old tip of the stock is already profiled to accept the stock ferule, I cut the needed length from the original M14 stock. I glue this tip to the bulkhead of the stock. I've had really good results with Gorilla glue. This should get you rolling fairly quickly. In about thirty minutes, your M14 will start to look like a Garand!
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 25, 2012 14:45:51 GMT -5
To add to Hornets tips, I suggest you augment the M14 lower stock shape so it is deeper through the mag area and provides the "Garand" look. To do this you can use bondo filler although I recommend you use a dyna glass filler which is much stronger and less likely to chip or fall apart with rugged use. (Also a Bondo product but typically for Marine application) Slop this on in layers until the rough shape is achived and then sand it down and stain to match the stock. An "expresso" stain provides a decent look although the best look I've achieved is by coating the stock with a ochre acrylic paint and then streaking over it with a walnut acrylic providing a wood grain, do a light wash of black and then coat with a clear dull coat. Do whatever will most closely match the handguards you end up modifying and using. To further strengthen the augmentation filler I recommend you gouge up the stock a bit with a dremel or drill some holes through which gives the dyna glass a bit more to bite into. Obviously insure your stock is clean and free of any oil. I've never heard of any issues with strength and resilience problems with these stock enhancements. The stock enhancement is by no means essential but it does substantially enhance the look of your conversion vs leaving the original M14 shape shortened but otherwise unalterred.
I permannently affix the handguards and the gas assembly as it doesn't impede disassembly at all and seems to strengthen the overall build but others have created clever ways to attach these items so they can be removed. Hornet drills a hole under the front site that allows for a set screw into the M14 barrel I have placed some there as well as in the rear ring of the gas assembly. Many people simply use several thin rolls of cloth tape wrapped around the M14 barrel as a spacer that provides a strong friction hold on the handguard. I used to do that as well but eventually went to a permanent bond which I have been happier with. To further the illusion of a conversion remove the butt plate flap and fill the remaining slots. Ditch the selector switch and charging handle brace and fill those vacant spots on the stock. On later builds I removed the white plastic horsehoe piece and selector switch hardware altogether as it sometimes would bind inside the modified stock and is completely uneccessary when you adapt the rifle to semi auto only. (Without the selector switch it defauts to semi auto.) The conversion is time consuming but not at all difficult.
Good luck and have fun with the project.
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Post by 7thhorsesoldier on Feb 26, 2012 15:37:12 GMT -5
Okay, here's another question I have. What main parts besides the gun will I need? I know I need the front and rear hand guard, but do I need the WHOLE Gas cylinder assembly, or just "the main part"? How many Ferrules do I need? Thanks!
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Post by 7thhorsesoldier on Feb 26, 2012 18:41:21 GMT -5
will I need spacers?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 26, 2012 18:48:42 GMT -5
The main components that you'll need from an actual M1 Garand are: The complete gas assembly including the front site, gas lug, gas lock and stacking swivel. In addition you'll need the upper and lower handguards which will have to be alterred slightly to fit. (A little dremel work) You'll want to be sure the upper handguard has the metal The lower handguard can be alterred to use the M14 metal clip although it's easier if it comes with it's own clip. Some people use the ferrules while others adapt parts from the M14. If you use the actual M1 ferrules the look is frankly better although you will have to ream out the gas tube hole if you want the bolt on your conversion to slide back and forth. There are a few items you'll have to fabricate to complete the look. Short barrel extension, Gas tube section inside the upper handguard etc. Thin strips of tape wrapped around the M14 outer barrel work well as spacers and are an expedient and effective way to create a tight fit. Insure you size the wraps so the handguard slips on snuggly without being so tight that the handguard splits. The space size is larger at the base of the upper handguard than it is up by the muzzle. To attach the lower handguard (The thin one) you'll need to dremel a groove into the M14 where the clip can bite. On my most recent 60 builds or so, I simply glued the handguard into place with contact cement as there is really no reason the heat shield handguard ever needs to come off that I can think of? Be sure the fit is snug and properly aligned and tape it into place overnight while it drys. Similarly I now permanently attach the upper handguard as well although I still use a wrap of tape to align everything snugly before applying the glue.
Be real sure you do a good job of attaching the upper sling hardware to the stock as I had many of my early rifles fail here which in hindsight could have been prevented. Use both JB weld and screws here!
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