ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 8, 2013 19:03:48 GMT -5
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 9, 2013 22:30:43 GMT -5
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Post by Atomic Racoon on Feb 9, 2013 23:22:27 GMT -5
For the A3, the first link. But for some reason, Amazon has a price markup from the Numrich site: www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/524220.htmI can't imagine there's a whole lot of a difference with the upper bands. But I'm not a Springfield expert. 2ndBat is probably who you'd like to talk to regarding differences in the variants.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 9, 2013 23:22:56 GMT -5
If you use the first one there is an additional band that butts up against it and provides the stacking swivel. The second one would be the more iconic one and most common. In addition to either of them you will also need the lower stock band with sling swivel which fits right at the crease in the stock and hand guard. Both of them together hold the stock and handguard in place.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 10, 2013 12:38:40 GMT -5
I knew about the lower band and stuff but which one SHOULD I use to make it, in your opinion.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 10, 2013 17:57:50 GMT -5
The second one is appropriate for a wider number of variants.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 12, 2013 15:54:48 GMT -5
I think I got the wrong handguard. I'm using the kind 2nd Bat used in his first conversion, is this okay or do I need to find another one? It looks like it's made for the A1
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roma
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Post by roma on Feb 13, 2013 4:59:39 GMT -5
According to documents first link is for A3-A4 variants, and the second one for all the rest
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 13, 2013 15:00:33 GMT -5
The shorter handguard with the larger bulge was for the A1 which used a ladder type rear site positioned in front of the reciever group. A 1s Did see action in both WW1 and WW2 but many A1s were updated to A3s for use in WW2. For your build you'll discover that the A3 handguard will need to be dremeled down in places to an almost veneer thickness to fit over the BAR 10 hardware.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 13, 2013 15:18:29 GMT -5
So it was a good thing I got the A1 handguard? I'm thinking of just switching my project over to an A1. It would also save me a bit of $$$.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 20, 2013 20:59:14 GMT -5
I got the replacement second sear today and I installed it but it still won't fire. Does anyone know anything about this?
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Mar 7, 2013 16:41:58 GMT -5
Finally got the parts but Numrich being the silly geese they are decided to send me a junk part as viewed here. imgur.com/kwnP6YhSo far though, it's looking pretty good: imgur.com/sKPTjzV
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HornetWSO
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Post by HornetWSO on Mar 7, 2013 17:45:42 GMT -5
Looking good! Reminds me of my '43 Smith Corona
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Mar 26, 2013 14:27:21 GMT -5
How far does the barrel extend from the opening of the upper band?
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Mar 26, 2013 15:56:34 GMT -5
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shiftysgarand
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Post by shiftysgarand on Mar 26, 2013 16:20:58 GMT -5
Das gut! Tres bien! Das ist toll! Great!
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 1, 2013 12:03:42 GMT -5
If I wanted to make my handguard and stock stains match, would I have to sand all of it down and restain it?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 1, 2013 14:58:52 GMT -5
That looks quite nice. Even after sanding down and restaining with the assortment of woods, the odds of getting a close match are pretty thin. In reality, during war time, stocks and hanguards often were somewaht miss matched so that is really not a big deal. The factories of course tried to use the same type of wood and match the finishes reasonably well but weren't always able to do so. As for the barrel length in front of the upper barrel band i just used a bayonet at my guide. From the front tip of the barrel band to the muzzle of the barrel is exactly four inches. Pull your barrel forward from whats shown and it will improve the look considerably. A ladder site tends to be a fairly expensive part and you will have to cut along the base of both side walls to attach it to your VSR barrel but this will really add a lot to your replica.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 1, 2013 20:07:47 GMT -5
Well right now, I have a peep hole sight but if I feel like it I can just unscrew it and add the ladder sight. Also, how would I get all thenparts to match the triggerguard color? Im wondering if I want to include the firing pin feature, you think that's a good idea?
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Post by tinydata on Apr 7, 2013 23:55:20 GMT -5
With your current parts mix, I'd recommend leaving the coloration of the metal parts as is. Your rifle (if it's going to be a 03 and not a 03A3) would represent a Remington M1903 transitional model with a field-replacement trigger guard/magazine assembly.
The firing pin feature is definitely a nice add-on and adds tremendously to the looks, but it is simply cosmetic and requires a substantial amount of work.
Feel free to PM me with any questions you might have.
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shiftysgarand
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Post by shiftysgarand on Apr 8, 2013 18:17:19 GMT -5
I agree with tinydata, in that it would look more interesting as a frankengun and not a shiny new production. If you think you can do the firing pin, go ahead.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 20, 2013 13:05:46 GMT -5
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shiftysgarand
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Post by shiftysgarand on Apr 20, 2013 19:30:13 GMT -5
Nice!
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 20, 2013 21:12:29 GMT -5
The rifle looks super and clearly you havedone excellent work. In viewing the video the barrel as it extends beyond the upper stock band is a bit too short. A very minor criticism and an easy fix. The addition of rear sites and the final receiver group bits will add a lot. You can see why custom rifle production doesn't really pencil out as in spite of the great work you'll get a financial return on the time you invested however it's hard to put a value on the satisfaction of the sweat equity for your own custom rifle.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 20, 2013 21:52:47 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm really proud of it. I can't wait to actually use it effectively in a WWII game this summer. I tried it out against normal airsofters(that weren't calling hits) and I averaged about 3 kills per game with 20 players total. I have also found that I can bolt it pretty quickly, timed was about 1.5 seconds for each bolt. The only thing that confuses me is how to widen the opening in bolt sleeve, because that's how I got that long cut. And finally, do I need the ladder sight collar? Lots of questions but I really want this to be great.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Apr 21, 2013 10:11:49 GMT -5
Do you need the ladder sight collar? Its up to you, you could make a homemade one or buy the real thing.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 21, 2013 10:56:35 GMT -5
So it does fit around the barrel with no problem? Or would I have to work it to fit?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 21, 2013 11:48:09 GMT -5
I have done several Springfields in the A1 configuration (with the ladder site). I found it best to make a horizontal cut on each side of the rear site right at the point it meets your stock. The tubular opening isn't big enough or access easy enough on the VSR airsoft gun. As you have already discovered cutting into weapons grade steel is tough and you will go through a few dremel blades but the end result is much better than trying to fabricate the appearance and just use the ladder site itself. Incidently once cut I just permanently affix the ladder site base and the upper handguard to the VSR upper. The handguard is so thin in places that this protects it and the site still functions and everything disassembles that you might need to take apart.
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Post by aj czarkowski on Apr 21, 2013 12:29:33 GMT -5
That's one of the best looking custom rifles I've seen, the barrel looks a little short but that's hardly noticeable, it puts my m1903 to shame
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 21, 2013 12:55:12 GMT -5
Thanks Czarkowski, that means a lot since it's my first attempt at a custom airsoft build. I think I'm going to get blued steel and chorme spray paint and finish up all the metal.
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