2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 22, 2016 22:52:23 GMT -5
With the recent acquisition of some BAR 10 airsoft rifles and the generous donation of some well underway KARs from Volks I am making three Mausers for my Kraut loaners. I will update my progress. In mulling over lots and lots of pictures the length the barrel protrudes in front of the upper stock bands seems to vary quite a bit?
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Post by insterburger on Jan 23, 2016 10:10:05 GMT -5
The barrel protrusion may vary on replicas, but it shouldn't on real 98k's. Front of the upper band to the muzzle should be 140mm, or 5.5" inches, no more and no less. If you need any other measurements from a legit 98k, just ask.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 23, 2016 12:31:49 GMT -5
Duh!!!!! It didn't occur to me as I was perusing the hundreds of images on Google that many (if not most) of the pictures were of replicas NOT actual rifles. Thanks for the clarity and help. 5.5 inches they shall be! I sure appreciate this Forum and this community!
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Post by insterburger on Jan 23, 2016 20:08:44 GMT -5
It makes things a lot easier for my conversions that I can crack open the gun safe and have my choice of representative 98k's from pre-war through Kriegsmodell to copy from. Again, if you need any more dimensions or specific detail shots, just ask.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 28, 2016 14:23:45 GMT -5
I get home for a few days off and should be able to get some work done on these. At the last event I loaned out my two Springfield conversions to supplement the German force weapons along with some of the base M1 carbines so nearly half my Germans were armed with US weapons. It was a compromise that even I had trouble reconciling. I long for the day when such a thing will be very rare.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 29, 2016 17:16:40 GMT -5
One of the more challenging steps in a Bar 10 conversion is hollowing out the base stock around the magazine/ hop up area. Getting the mag release alignment properly aligned and functional is especially challenging. For this batch of conversions I plan to take a different approach which have seen utilized by others. I am going to remove the area in front of the created mag well and likewise remove a section of the BAR 10 stock base which houses the mag release and dyna glass it into place on my modified wood stocks. With a little effort and some cosmetic work I should be able to blend it nicely into the stock so as to render it barely noticeable. Saving the effort required to create the thin/ hard to get at stock work.
Wish me luck!
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Post by scvngr on Jan 30, 2016 18:30:10 GMT -5
You don't really need the mag release button; a good friction fit will do the job.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 30, 2016 20:02:04 GMT -5
Hmmmmmm? Thanks for the tip. Oh wait, I've built over 30 BAR 10 conversions. Based on those builds if you're planning on skirmishing with them, a functioning mag release is a good thing to have. Not ENTIRELY essential but awful nice.
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Dracul
Master sergeant
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Post by Dracul on Feb 9, 2016 17:38:31 GMT -5
Mag release button is pretty essential if you ask me. Its a nice, precise factory line up to the hopup. Especially with all the different brands of VSR-10 mags out there, with very minor differences in dimensions.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 9, 2016 19:20:47 GMT -5
When I get home for several weeks Friday night I will have a good block of time to work on these.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 19, 2016 22:56:53 GMT -5
Now one week later than planned I finally back into these. I am doing a Check version Mauser and a Kar 98. Today I spent most of the day on the Kar98. It is a marriage of a VSR 10 and the bits from a wood stocked D Boys rifle. The day was spent dremeling out the stock for the magazine and trigger area. The Mauser trigger band and Mauser magazine bass had to be cut in places to marry up with the VSR guys. Mag wall removed inside and trigger hole widened and slightly lengthened. The hand guard had to be hollowed out for about one and a half inches to fit over the VSR barrel section left as a cover for the hop up. I know some cut that away but I prefer not to. It does however require sanding to a veneer like thickness in that section.
The stock back at the bolt and VSR safety likewise had to be reshaped as I am going to stick with the VSR bolt. (I will give the bolt tip a ball tip so it's not quite as distracting.). This is fine for my purposes.
If I have tomorrow to work on it I should have my "BAR 98" functional and assembled leaving my final cosmetic work for another day. I have an entirely different approach concept for this Czeck Mauser as the stock is very thick. I am contemplating scavenging the butt stock, forearm and hand guard and using the main body of the VSR stock so mag well, mag release, trigger guard and functional bits remain VSR. I then anticipate sheeting this area with veneered walls from the center section of the stock and then blending it all with my standby resin paste.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 23, 2016 14:19:24 GMT -5
I sent Dracul a block of pictures of my efforts on the DBoys / BAR 10 marriage. It needs some final fit work in the VSR magwell area and to get the rear site mounted and then with cosmetic finish work it will be done. I had some real mysterious challenges getting the base VSR rifle to shoot once installed in the customized stock. It was baffling. After much inletting work, shaving of the inner stock I determined that while I had widened the trigger slot from the Mauser housing I needed also to lengthen then slightly. Very annoying and time consuming issue to figure out. Once identified it was an easy fix. These custom projects each present unique obstacles and Schmitty advice from 12 years ago remains valid. When truly stuck, walk away for a bit but don't give up.
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Dracul
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Post by Dracul on Feb 23, 2016 14:26:51 GMT -5
I haven't got an e-mail yet....
But yeah, its the difficulties from putting the VSR internals into the DBoys stock that pushed me to the Hairy Apples method with for Kar98s (externally modding a VSR with parts of the rifle you want it to become). Which, nearly a year later, I'm finally getting some where with those, haha
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 23, 2016 15:37:57 GMT -5
I will try to resend. I just sent a single picture of my current new attempt at a Mystery Mauser conversion but that's for the other thread.
I will try to resend the other pictures to support this one. Thanks again Drac!
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Dracul
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Post by Dracul on Mar 12, 2016 0:09:39 GMT -5
Mystery Mauser build from 2ndBat:
Here are pictures of the Mystery Mauser Build. The stock was purchased cheap at a gun show for $35.00 along with hardware. I thought it was a CZ 24 but now think it was a Yugo Mauser Karbine. In any event it fills in nicely as a Kraut weapon. I married it with a boneyard BAR 10 using the center housing of the VSR stock adding both the forearm AND butt stock. Capping it with the long upper hand guard.
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Dracul
Master sergeant
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Post by Dracul on Mar 12, 2016 0:13:21 GMT -5
Completed Mausers from 2ndBat latest workings:
Compilation of the other Mausers I finished. CZ24 with the straight bolt and finger grooves. DBoys Kar 98 and VSR BAR 10 Mystery Mauser
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 12, 2016 14:25:56 GMT -5
Thanks Drac for posting those. I actually mislabeled them as the center picture was the three part Mystery Mauser and the bottom picture is the DBoys Kar 98 and BAR10 marriage. Note the flat Butt plate on the CZ 24 on top,different sling hardware and full upper handguard. Both the Kar98 replica and mystery Mauser have the cupped butt plate. The Mystery Mausers stock mounted bolt disc was added by me and was not on the stock.
These are all wonderfully skirmishable airsoft guns that have, power, range, reliability and consistency. As with any bolt action airsoft rifle, teamwork, tactics and skillful knowledge of your limitations when facing AEGs is huge. There is something wonderfully satisfying about using them in games.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 3, 2016 12:20:55 GMT -5
I have five assorted Mauser conversions and asked about inexpensive slings for them. Man the line (mantheline.com) was recommended so I ordered there. I am quite pleased with the slings I received which are perfect for my purposes. I noticed however that once installed the lower buckle doesn't want to curl and stay flush to the stock. Is there some technique that I am missing?
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Post by hennepin15 on Sept 12, 2016 23:01:01 GMT -5
Love this thread, from the pictures did you allow some wood on the Mauser stock to slide above the plastic stock of the bar98k? If so the bondo hid it perfectly. Great job as always!
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 13, 2016 16:35:17 GMT -5
That is exactly what I did with several of them. On others I inletted an intact stock which is harder and more time consuming than the three part marriage. I have done the three part marriages for Springfield's, SMLEs and Mausers and with somewhat artistic blending and stain work it's hard even for me to spot which ones I did it with and which ones I didn't.
This approach is very worthwhile for folks somewhat unsure of their woodworking ability or someone like me who is more concerned with knocking a bunch of them out rather than building a single rifle. Obviously the ideal will be when a manufacturer decides to build and offer a purpose built, spring action bolty that doesn't use shells. (Hopefully more powerful than the S&T Springfield and with pseudo wood so the cost can be kept down.
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Post by hennepin15 on Sept 26, 2016 12:25:35 GMT -5
Just curious on how you made your bayonet lugs under the barrel?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 26, 2016 14:13:16 GMT -5
In each case they were parts from the donor base rifle. The forearms and hardware were unmodified and simply attached to the front of a cut down VSR center section of stock except in the case of the real wood DBoys K98 where the entire lower stock was modified.
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Post by 2ndbat2 on Jan 16, 2021 21:19:32 GMT -5
Since this thread I have made several more including one using the take of plastic stock from my S&T Springer Mauser prior to S&T offering a real wood stock I used an actual stock and modified it. This left the donor stock and hardware that had to be used! I am not sure what was harder? Modifying an actual stock was way harder than I anticipated and modifying the S&T for a VSR was likewise a pain. If you buy an S&T Mauser get it with the real wood! Incidentally I still love the factory Springer although these VSRs do shoot a bit harder.
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