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Post by Gordak on Sept 2, 2005 10:48:48 GMT -5
www.gordak.com/m1hpa.jpgthe mod is easy, just be vary carful about psi Because hfc 134a is 90 psi at 80 degrees, I set my hpa reg to 90 psi. WAY too powerful. Because of the almost perfect stability of HPA, you only need 55 or 60 psi to wing the huge .45 bbs out at 250 fps. for fun I fired 10 mags as fast as I could (60 rounds) The stability and power makes this a MUCH better airsoft skirmish weapon. every shot comes at the same power and the bolt function is quick and percise. -Gordak
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Post by Capt. Zak on Sept 2, 2005 12:13:32 GMT -5
YOU ARE A MAD MAN! That is awesome. What did the mod cost?
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Post by Gordak on Sept 2, 2005 13:04:48 GMT -5
.90 cents for the hose coupler.
THE accuracy and dependability are awesome, Just remmebr to keep it around 50 psi, you dont want to dammage your gun!
hfc134a runs at 90psi, for the first round, and then goes way down bcause the gas (refegerant) cools down.
with this air system the gas stays the same every shot, the bolt is alot quicker too, all this at only 50 psi! -Gordak
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Post by Eugene on Sept 2, 2005 15:51:33 GMT -5
Wonderful ... Can you unload a movie so we can all see how the bolt is cycling and the accuracy of the rifle...much appreciated ;D
Happytanker
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Post by predator06 on Sept 2, 2005 17:05:32 GMT -5
Wow gordak, thats Cool.
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Post by CPL. Mills 2nd Rangers on Sept 3, 2005 3:14:25 GMT -5
its cool, but, i'll stick to the unmodded gun for now. I dont like the idea of having a external tank on the gun.
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Post by gunfreak on Sept 3, 2005 4:17:50 GMT -5
same here, but if anybody fine's a way to mod the but stock, that would be cool
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Post by phantom12321 on Sept 3, 2005 9:41:06 GMT -5
hopefully they will eventually improve the original to make it more consistant or something
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Post by CPL. Mills 2nd Rangers on Sept 3, 2005 21:20:29 GMT -5
you can hold it in a GP bag or a gas mask bag,
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Post by Tricky9914 on Sept 28, 2005 9:15:51 GMT -5
I don't know, the idea of having a hose coming out the bottom of the gun,. just sounds like it might take alot of the realism and fun out of carrying an M1 Garand on the battle field. But thats just me. The mod is very cool tho. Good Job!
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Post by sargo on Nov 15, 2005 4:16:46 GMT -5
I was wondering if you could give me a precise list of the components you used. I don't have much experience in these and it would help if i had names of those parts you used. What kind of bottle, regulator etc? 0.8l 3000psi(200bar) aluminum bottle would be great because it is fairly small in size(and weights only 1,2kg), but how big is your's(kevlar 1.5l 4500psi?) and have you tested how many shots can be fired with one filling?
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Post by Gordak on Nov 15, 2005 15:30:11 GMT -5
I will make a list eventually when i get time, Its basically just macro line and macroline fittings. out of a 4500 psi tank, you probably get 4 or 5000 rounds, and you only need about 50psi.
here is what i tell everyone Regulator - call 1916-923-9676 ask for a Palmers female stabalizer set up for low pressure HPA/nitro airsoft guns. Tell them you want a 0 to 300 psi gauge. If they dont have the gauge, just get one at any paintball store. they take all credit cards and they ship nice and quick. probalby around 90 bux after shipping.
Next you need macroline and fittings, Get the all silver all metal fitting that are avalible at paintball stores, the ones with the colored plastic dont work. You want it to fit 6mm plastic hose.
Macro line, (small 6mm hose) at painball stores was too hard, I have macro line for sale if you cant get any, its cheap.
SOme say the best macro line is the extreamly flexible japanese type. this type often does not hold well in american connectors.
Macmaster carr sells the best 6mm macro line hose. my favorite is rated for 175 psi, with a 1mm wall.
macmaster carr west of Chicago off 290 also carries the better fittings. they have a web site.
wanna get all the goodies? Get a remote coil hose $35 bux at a painbal store, and a clyndrical quick disconnect (discount paint ball $50) some personal ingenueaty and youll have it all together.
you should spend $150 to $190 on your air tank, hopfully 4500 psi, but 300 is liveable if its nice an big.
The nice thing is once u have this rig, you can use it on all your classic guns, so its only a one time cost.
take your time, and youll get it going at minimal cost. -Gordak
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Post by jonathonbarton on Nov 15, 2005 18:25:24 GMT -5
I'm working on sourcing an M5x0.5 fitting so you can go to external power by dropping in a replacement for the gas fill valve. More later.
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Post by Gordak on Nov 15, 2005 21:53:01 GMT -5
if u actually find one, there are aobut a billion people who will want them. -Gordak
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Post by mikkel on Nov 24, 2005 14:21:25 GMT -5
Im going to slightly hijack this tread.
I was thinking of modding my tanaka kar98k for external air, and finally getting involved in all this HPA stuff. But i don't got a clue, as to how the rig should be connected to the gun. The magazines are taken out, when reloading, so the mag-bottom mod does not seem to be the solution.
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Post by happytanker on Dec 20, 2005 12:16:35 GMT -5
I found a gas operated M1 Garand in Japan that would accept the en-bloc with 8 rounds. The bolt will cycle and the round will be ejected as the trigger was pulled. The en-bloc will fly out and make that distinct "ping" sound after the last round. Here is the link to view the movie: www.h2.dion.ne.jp/~airgun/M1garand.wmvEnjoys Happytanker
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Post by Gordak on Dec 20, 2005 13:26:01 GMT -5
thats why I would not recommend modding the kar for external air, Unless perhaps we came up with a stripper clip that could load bbs into the mag thru the top when the bolt is open, now that would be awesome.
-Gordak
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Post by anagram on Jan 24, 2006 14:19:18 GMT -5
Gordak did you remove the overflow valve from your garand so that it doesnt leak with external air? I did the same with my garand but i used KWC/cybergun Co2 adapter. I havent fired it yet though...
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Post by Gordak on Jan 24, 2006 23:56:14 GMT -5
overflow valve?? just cock it before you turn the air on, and beware of CO2, remmeber 50 to 70 psi, is all it needs -Gordak
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Post by anagram on Jan 26, 2006 16:19:12 GMT -5
ok maybe i shouldnt remove it.. all marushin weapons have overflow valve for example m1 carbine has it on the mag next to the filling valve... you have to change the overflow valve on carbine to filling valve if you want to use green gas(because otherwise it leaks due the higher pressure of greengas) so thats why i was going to remove the overflow valve
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Post by Kyle on Jan 28, 2006 17:58:18 GMT -5
one question: I've looked at the overflow valve threading on the m1 garand, and it looks to be a 1/8in connection. I only have a 45 degree fitting to test it with, but it starts to thread in as far as I can turn it until I knock against the brass hollow tube. If I can get a straight fitting, or disassemble the gun enough to get the brass tube out (I've gone pretty far before, but didn't think to check the fit of the hole then), It seems like I can just drill out part of the stock and run a hose out that way, saving my fill valve if I ever wish to revert it.
Anyone had any luck doing this?
EDIT: Upon further inspection, it appears that Gordak did his this way (the gas line is coming out of the stock just foward of the metal plate.) Did you do it this way? What type of hardware did you use on the inside?
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Post by Gordak on Jan 29, 2006 9:52:19 GMT -5
well yes, you dont want to screw up your fill valve, or the thread for it, so just drill a hole in the actual tank, (its east to plug later)
Some people insist on going thru the fill valve, it really scares me to think about all the things that can go wrong with that.
on another note, I didnt know the garand had an overflow vavle!, I guess i never get anywhere near the dangerous PSI. -Gordak
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Post by Kyle on Feb 11, 2006 3:45:47 GMT -5
Alright, I did it! Only had to drill the stock.
The front connection that the overfill valve usually occupies is a 1/8NPT connection (NOT tapered!)
I used a braided hose, pretty short, only about 6 or 7 inches, and ran that through the stock just shy of the front sling swivel.
I can mount a Palmer's stabilizer with a 12g CO2 cartridge just under the very front handguard piece (forward of where one would normally put their hand, but before the bayonet guide.)
I had to file down part of the hex-part of the fitting, because it was making the blowback tube catch when it was in the rearmost position. I tightened the fitting all the way without threadlock, and made a mark where it would end up. Unscrewed it, and went to filing. Re-aligned the marks, this time with threadlock, and put it in. Seems to be a great fit.
I'll work on some pics and add them to the thread when they're done.
On 12g cartridges, I'm able to get just about 5 mags, not too shabby!
I use an ace bandage to secure the stabilizer to the front, and to mask the silver braided hose.
For summer usage (larger, longer games) I'll probably set up an off-gun tank.
But it can be done, CO2 into the M1 garand without touching the gas reservoir with a drill. Just have to bore out a "trench" for the hose, and put another hole leaving the trench to get to the outside.
One possible problem, not related to the CO2 rig (it does this without.
The action seems to stick when i put upward pressure on the trigger guard (like pushing it up into the gun.)
It sticks about halfway through the motion, just as it clears the BB rail (from the mag to the hopup)
Any ideas? Not really a problem, in fact it might be normal for all I know, but it's been bugging me.
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Post by Gordak on Feb 11, 2006 20:26:52 GMT -5
sounds like a part #45 problem, if it is, yo need to tighten (actually loosen) that LONG screw that runs along the bolt, so that the screw sticks into the little holw in the back of the bolt, and thus keeps it straight.
hey, could we see some picts of your mod?
-Gordak
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Post by Kyle on Feb 11, 2006 21:11:29 GMT -5
aha, that should explain it. When I was loctiting all the screws in the gun the other week, I tightened that screw a LOT (did not use loctite though.) The part itself looks to be ok, but i have a spare #45 on the way just in case. Used the m1 in a game today, heh, once 2 AEG users with hicaps find out where you are, youre screwed. I got one of them though! Taking pics here in a few minutes. Update: Pics! Linking, somewhat large. 209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_1_web.jpg209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_2_web.jpg209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_3_web.jpg209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_4_web.jpg209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_5_web.jpg209.193.36.167/images/m1g/m1co2_6_web.jpgQuestion for those in the know on the M1: Look at the last 2 pictures. What is the spring for that is on the rod of that part? (Part 45) The end of the spring going towards the front of the rifle looks like it hooks onto that piece right before the gas chamber. The rear piece on mine looks like it could be broken? This might have something to do with my clip-not-ejecting problem (they don't eject on the last shot, It just keeps shooting blanks. On SOME clips I can pull the bolt back and they go flying, on some I can't. I'll try to get a better pic of the spring in question. I do have another part45 coming next week, looks like I might need it after all?
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Post by Guinness on Feb 12, 2006 0:10:04 GMT -5
Kyle, do you HFC134a or Greengas? -G
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Post by Kyle on Feb 12, 2006 1:25:17 GMT -5
Spring-thing solved thanks to Guiness!
It's just the spring that keeps the upper part from wiggling around too much. Not sure if that affects clip-ejecting, will test the gun tomorrow.
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Post by Gordak on Feb 12, 2006 14:49:30 GMT -5
thanks for pix, its better than taking gas cans around with you, re gassing ever 15 shots. -Gordak
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Post by rbx6jm7man on Mar 6, 2006 19:17:03 GMT -5
what is the effective range for the marushin garand? isn't 250fps sort of weak?
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Post by Kyle on Mar 7, 2006 16:21:00 GMT -5
I don't have any actual distance figures available right now, but something to note is that is 250fps using a .34 or .43g 8mm bb. A lot more force/power than a .2 6mm bb floating by at 250fps.
Using one of the stabilizers, you can adjust the pressure for it to shoot higher to some extent. If you crank it too much, the bolt will not cycle on its own. But BE SAFE and don't use it in a skirmish cranked too high, go look at the tools download section at Arnie's Airsoft (http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk) and grab the FPS-energy calculator, to see the equivilance of different weight BBs to a .2g bb at certain speeds.
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