KRaddatz
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Post by KRaddatz on Sept 25, 2008 15:22:40 GMT -5
also you have to add the front sling feurrel
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Sept 25, 2008 16:18:14 GMT -5
Yeah, that's the item I'm referring to when I say "stock swivel" - which was of course a mistake, since that part is called a stock ferrule How's yours coming along?
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 25, 2008 16:20:58 GMT -5
How's yours coming along? I don't think Kyle is making one. And your conversion is really coming along Seff. As for me I am still bogged down at the starting line. My dad wants to do most of the work(almost all of the work) but he hasn't had much time to work on it lately so not much progression.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Sept 25, 2008 16:30:43 GMT -5
I have been bogged down for 18 months trying to procure parts, so I have a lot of Garand-energy pent up and ready for use. There is relatively little real work involved, but having somebody to help you is always good. Is it because you can't do it yourself, or because he wants to be a part of it? It's not as hard as it looks
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 25, 2008 16:37:59 GMT -5
Its just that we don't have a lot of cash( I luckily pulled it off for $210 with the M14) to spend and he's afraid I may mess up.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Sept 25, 2008 16:46:09 GMT -5
Ah, I guess that's reasonable. Parent-funded project would invoke such concerns in my home as well.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Sept 25, 2008 17:24:28 GMT -5
LOL well I bought all the M1 Garand parts with my cash and my dad bought the M14 for my B-day.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 8, 2008 10:14:13 GMT -5
Well I am on my way now I have put the barrel in place, Secured the Gas Cylinder on, finished the rear handguard. I just need to tighten everything up and put the handguard clip on. Unfortunately the hanguard clip is a bit larger then the M1 garand clip so I need to sand it down. I hope to finish it today. The reason I suddenly have almost finished the project is because my dad said we could do most of it ourselves and I found out it isn't as hard as I thought it would be. As for redoing the shape of the stock with bondo, my uncle will do that. ;D
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Post by blitz on Oct 26, 2008 8:02:36 GMT -5
Please let us know how you do the bondo!
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 26, 2008 8:58:31 GMT -5
Well I have no experience with Bondo in fact my uncle is going to be doing it.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 26, 2008 9:05:40 GMT -5
I sanded and drilled about a million little 1-2mm holes in the plastic stock where I wanted to apply the bondo, and fitted a cardboard cutout with package tape in the magwell, then I simply smothered the first layer on - all that I could get in place in three minutes. When it had dried, I sanded it down so it was all within the general shape of the stock, and applied more layers where needed. I ended up with 7 or 8 layers, each batch getting smaller and smaller, until I was satisfied with shape and texture.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 26, 2008 9:23:26 GMT -5
Cool! Make sure to post pics!
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 26, 2008 9:28:58 GMT -5
Pictures of the finished bondoing. I have no pics of the process, but I recall seeing some of 2ndbat's somewhere: EDIT: that's actually before the final sanding and last layer of bondo - it's pretty rough here :/
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Post by blitz on Oct 26, 2008 10:03:02 GMT -5
When say bondo, do you mean the big jar that is at hardware stores, or the small little tube? I got the tube and it never dried. Sorry if this is a stupid question lol!
BTW That garand is lookin' nice! ;D
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 26, 2008 11:24:45 GMT -5
My bondo is, directly translated, called Polyester Spackel. It comes in a large tin can and is beige, and the hardener comes in a small tube and is pink (in my case). You add 3-5% of the hardener to the spackel and mix it in, then you have 3-5 minutes to work it until it starts going hard. It's completely dry after 30-45 minutes. Whatever you had, it was only one of the components, which isn't right
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 26, 2008 12:19:35 GMT -5
Hey great job seff can't wait till mine is bondoed. One question are you planning on converting your other M14 also?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 26, 2008 19:07:13 GMT -5
I highly recommend if you layer bondo that you drill holes and insert a bunch of small screws in the general shape you're looking for. These will serve as rebar for the bondo so it will hold securely and will also serve as a guide to create the shape you are hoping for. I've done three of my early efforts this way and was quite happy with the end result although the process is labor intense and quite messy. It is also what I did to create my buck for the eventual all wood version two lower stock. Nightmare process, don't get me started!
Incidently you will want to put an M14 mag in the mag well and have it taped off so the new thin walls created in the proper Garand shape will not interupt the mag well area. This process though time consuming provides a very high quality look and is well worth the effort if you have the time and expertise.
Seff and SGTTOM I'd love to see your finished product as I'm sure once properly stained and finished off they will look great!
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 26, 2008 19:35:22 GMT -5
One question are you planning on converting your other M14 also? No, I'm keeping that around for Vietnam games @ 2ndBat: Thanks. My bondo seems fine without the screws, but I DID add the holes. Shaping was indeed mess, especially the sanding. Result is rather nice, though. Next in the process is to fit a longer, thinner 'operation rod' pipe on the charging handle so that I can simply fit it all the way into the gas cylinder, thus eliminating any problems with the stock ferrule and lower band when I rack the bolt. My real wood is unfinished, which means I'll have to rub it with cooked linseed oil like the real Garand wood - then I'll worry about matching the plastic stock to that.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 26, 2008 23:21:07 GMT -5
The bondo won't stain so be advised you'll need to coat/ seal it with something similar in shade and then apply graining technique to make it all look right. I have used Esspresso shade paint followed by a grain effect with a rasp followed finally with a wash of black thinned out paint. Do the grain rasp effect and esspresso to the handguards also and the overall effect will be quite pleasing. The screws is highly recommended because while bondo is quite strong it will chip when dropped unless adequately reinforced and I find the small screws do an amazing job.
I also recommend if you do the bondo and sanding with the stock mounted to the rifle. Be sure to stuff a rag or latex gloves in the mag well so the dust won't enter the rifle innards.
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 27, 2008 16:49:43 GMT -5
I won't be able to redo the bondo now, but if it cracks I'll look at it I took the stock off for all the bondo-work, including the sanding. Dusty as hell!
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 27, 2008 18:30:35 GMT -5
Definitely recommended that one wear a dust mask or aerator as the dust is quite toxic. Bondo is however pretty amazing stuff. It is quite easy to provide a very wood like surface that can easily fool others into thinking it is all wood. It also provides substantial weight and rigidity to the stock.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 29, 2008 8:34:01 GMT -5
Well my M14's motor seems to be broke. It just starts to smoke up and the BB's won't cycle. I might have to finish the conversion my brother's is doing, then sell it and start all over. I have been thinking. Could an airsoft rifle possibly be made to fire using a mechanism similar to a real rifle. Something like using a small blank to project the BB out instead of using electic systems and gas systems? I don't know its just been on my mind. -sgttom
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godo
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Post by godo on Oct 29, 2008 23:55:33 GMT -5
Only things I can think that might cause that- A motor that is screwed in too tight or a stuck gear.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 30, 2008 6:46:28 GMT -5
I'll have to check that out godo. Thanks!
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 30, 2008 20:49:43 GMT -5
So you started this project six months ago, still haven't finished it and now have a rifle with a non functioning motor. Yikes! Hopefully it is simply an adjustment, disconnected wire or blown fuse. A lot of effort and expense to no avail. Good luck with it my young friend. I hope you're able to get it squared away and out on the WW2 battlefield.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 31, 2008 7:24:53 GMT -5
Well luckily the rifle was just jammed. There was about 20 BB's stuck in there. I have another problem though and this one is a fatal blow. The hop up is cracked and thats why when I shoot my gun the BB's go like 2 feet and then drop. So hopefully I'll be able to get a new hop up if not I will probably sell my working Garand and sell my other M14's gearbox and then start all over -sgttom
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Seff
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Post by Seff on Oct 31, 2008 19:07:12 GMT -5
Next time, get at least a Cyma, preferably a TM. AGM is juuuust on the cheap side for my taste.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 31, 2008 23:06:41 GMT -5
AGM and CYMA have both been fine from a reliability perspective based on dozens and dozens of sold AGMs and roughly 70 CYMAs. The same certainly can't be said of the KARTs, UTGs, TSDs and Airsoft Clubs which have been less reliable and not as well made to begin with.
SGT Tom really sorry to hear about your hop up. It's always a good idea to initially test fire an AEG with the hop up fully disengaged and then gradually adjust until it is properly set. It sounds like someone perhaps started it up fully engaged and that's what caused the jam and ultimate split in the hop up?
I don't think a Marui Hop up is transferable to an AGM M14 (if that is what you have) and odds are you can't buy the replacement part on its own.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Nov 1, 2008 8:01:31 GMT -5
Seff yes next time I will get a CYMA but I can't stand the Mauri because the FPS is so low and the price is so high. 2nd Bat, well the first time I test fired it was when it arrived at my house. I didn't try adjusting the hop up but it shot fine. Then I brought it to my friends house two weeks ago and it fired horribly. Then a couple days ago I tried firing it and nothing came out and then my brother tried and thats when it started smoking and then the trigger got stuck. Now I un jammed the gun and the gear box works fine but the hop up is broke. I am not sure when it broke because I never really got a good look at it. As far as I know it could have been broken when I bought it. The funny thing is my brothers gun shot fine and the hop up spring was missing on it ;D
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 1, 2008 11:27:12 GMT -5
No. Thankfully I have not. I have had the motor wire detach when mounting the rifle back into the stock. I now tape them down prior to reassembly. I also had the AGM versions make me crazy as result of the peculiar way they come cross wired. It took me forever to figure out what was going on there. I was attempting to fire them with a non AGM battery. For those versions I switched the wiring back around so they'd be conventional to all other batteries and chargers.
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