deacon
Private 1st Class
Posts: 748
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Post by deacon on Nov 13, 2009 0:52:48 GMT -5
Scopes are for Gishmoigans, they tend to get in the way, and for airsoft, they really have no purpose.
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Post by hairy apple on Nov 13, 2009 1:32:56 GMT -5
I am building this for my girlfriend to use mostly. She used a scoped upgraded sniper rifle a few weeks ago and loved it. Decided she wanted to trade in her thompson for a bolt action... and I had been thinking about doing this project for a while. So I got to build it, and she gets to shoot people with it. I will build myself an 03 with the ladder sights and no scope for my USMC impression. This one will get a scope though.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant 
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 17, 2009 12:49:15 GMT -5
The actual Springfield scope hardware is extremely expensive. There are replicas but even they will run you well over $100.00 without the scope. The same is true of the Garand scope hardware. I was tempted to buy an example of each and then mold the hardware but I just don't know if enough would sell for sufficient money to justify the expense and effort. I know another thing that is holding me back is that I am with Deacon on this one and think scopes for airsoft guns are silly. Still they can look badass and to a large extent let's face it that's kind what we are about.
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Post by hairy apple on Nov 17, 2009 12:58:53 GMT -5
Yeah, honestly I'm not a big fan of scopes on real guns either. I've always like shooting with iron sights. And for a airsoft gun scopes are kind of silly. However, like I said, this one is for my girlfriend and she wanted a scope. I think I found a repro scope mount that's only about $50. I'll just modify it to fit the VSR. I have a .22 scope that looks a lot like the springfield scope so that will work just fine. I'm not going to drop a ton of money on the scope, I still have the internals to build.
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Post by grifter on Mar 15, 2010 9:51:38 GMT -5
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Mar 15, 2010 10:27:43 GMT -5
Very nice job man! The stock looks really well done, I thought it was probably original when I saw it.
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Post by pvtluke on Mar 28, 2010 17:55:59 GMT -5
Very nice piece of art!
I might try this!
~Luke
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Post by mastermike95 on Jul 6, 2010 2:47:10 GMT -5
hey sorry ima noob but what are all the parts i need?
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roma
Private
4th Ivy division
Posts: 247
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Post by roma on Jul 6, 2010 3:27:21 GMT -5
Yeah, honestly I'm not a big fan of scopes on real guns either. I've always like shooting with iron sights. And for a airsoft gun scopes are kind of silly. However, like I said, this one is for my girlfriend and she wanted a scope. I think I found a repro scope mount that's only about $50. I'll just modify it to fit the VSR. I have a .22 scope that looks a lot like the springfield scope so that will work just fine. I'm not going to drop a ton of money on the scope, I still have the internals to build. I used real Weaver old sight, it is not expensive, and self made platform.  |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 6, 2010 11:55:22 GMT -5
Gorgeous!
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Post by tomsawyer on Jul 7, 2010 8:26:35 GMT -5
I happen to have 2 or 3 weaver scopes and mounts laying around. they only cost me 25 dollars each.
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Post by tomsawyer on Jul 7, 2010 10:41:18 GMT -5
Is it possible to use A1 hand guards on an A3 stock?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 7, 2010 11:14:25 GMT -5
There really isn't an A3 stock per se and either handguard will work on any lower stock variant.
The lower stock variants are: Straight stock. The classic almost musket like WW1 stock (Still seen in WW2) The Scant stock which had a larger bulge at the butt (Also seen in WW2) and the C stock which was the later variant and often seen on WW2 Springfields and used on the A4 sniper. Springfields were typically re-worked for WW2 service and the longer later handguard added along with the peep site replacing the ladder type sight from WW1 and between the wars. In addition to the three main lower stock types there were numerous other iterations such as stock bolt placement, finger grooves etc. If you use the A1 handguard you will want to go with the ladder site. The A3 handguard was more common on WW2 rifles.
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Post by tomsawyer on Jul 7, 2010 11:27:26 GMT -5
Alright thanks. So for the metal hardware would all of this work
1903 band front sight
1903 band lower w/swivel
1903 band screw upper
1903 band screw lower
1903 buttplate
1903 buttswivel
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Post by tomsawyer on Jul 7, 2010 11:36:18 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jul 8, 2010 23:09:54 GMT -5
The scant stock would be appropriate for either handguard.
To finish off the receiver group you might also want the ON OFF switch and the READY switch If you plan to mount the scope you won't need the front or rear sight.
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deacon
Private 1st Class
Posts: 748
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Post by deacon on Jul 9, 2010 1:17:06 GMT -5
Unless you are building a 1903 Sniper rifle, opposed to a 1903A4. Then would you keep the sights.
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Post by tomsawyer on Jul 10, 2010 18:53:51 GMT -5
Alright thanks guys. Also deacon i plan on making it a sniper since i have the weaver scope with mount.
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deacon
Private 1st Class
Posts: 748
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Post by deacon on Jul 24, 2010 3:22:48 GMT -5
A 1903 sniper rifle, is just a 1903 fitted with either an Unertl or weaver scope. A 1903A4 is also a sniper rifle, but manufactured with a scope.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 14, 2010 11:28:58 GMT -5
I have been inspired by this approach and am building five of them as we speak. I'll post pictures as it goes. I'm going to do one A4 with C stock, scope and no sights but the rest will be A1s or A3s. in a scant stock configuration.
They are the perfect loaner/ rental guns for events as they look great are quite durable and absolutely hassle free. No batteries or gas and a quick session on reloading and the trooper is all set. I've finished three of the base stocks and have the Springfield fore-end pieces and handguards ordered. The upper handguard is the toughest part as getting it to fit requires lots of dremel work.
A parts list for anyone wanting to do this project is as follows:
VSR base rifle. Marui VSR, Bar 10 from JG or any of a number of VSR clones. (Avoid the really inexpensive ones as they are not durable at all. (The AGM MP001 is especially bad)
A Springfield stock forearm (Dupage trading) an upper handguard in either the A1 or A3 variant. (Short WW1 and WW2 variant or long WW2 only variant) The front stock band with bayonet lug and stacking swivel, Front site and sight blade, Rear sight in either the WW1 and WW2 ladder sight for the A1 variant or the WW2 peep sight, The rear stock band with sling hardware. The trigger and magazine housing (Optional item not essntial but it adds to the final product) Butt plate and rear sling hardware. Also optional but adds to the detail look. To do up the receiver group so it looks more authentic I recommend you acquire a cut off switch, READY tab safety lever, bolt knob and rounded knob to redo the bolt I use stove knobs cut in half and attached to a sanded down VSR bolt. In addition you'll need a section of copper tube for the new outer barrel and some paint and epoxy resin.
The cost of materials typically runs about $370.00 and you should be able to do the build in about a week to 10 days dinking around with it fairly steady.
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Post by FlyingSquirrelcat on Oct 3, 2010 5:51:41 GMT -5
Beauty, very beautiful my lad. And she functions well to? Wow, couldnt as for better. Amazing detail and finish. All comes together so very well with your Marine Impression and the tall grass  well done |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 5, 2010 12:05:05 GMT -5
My five Bar 10 Springfield builds got a little diverted as I am now doing one up as a SMLE and another as a CZ 24. The misdirection was simply because an SMLE tip hardware set became available cheaply and the CZ stock was suddenly available very inexpensively.
I'll will still complete 3 Springfields and followed Hairey Apples basic approach which works very well. With the plastic Bar 10 stock you can modify it quite authentically to the scant stock shape and gouge in the finger grooves that I always liked the looks of. I'm doing a traditional M1903 A1 (Scant stock) a M1903 A3 peep site (scant stock) and a M1903A4 Sniper with 3 power scope. One discovery is to cut the Bar 10 stock a good inch or more in front of the plastic bulkhead that rest directly in front of the Bar 10 hop up. It will alighn and size better with the Springfield stock foreend and more importantly give you an area to resin in a wood or metal dowel that will greatly reinforce the connection. I tried a direct flat connection and found it too weak to work and be durable. Fortunately I had lots of extra stocks from earlier builds where I used full on actual springfield stocks.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 21, 2010 11:21:25 GMT -5
The real challenge with this build is getting the upper handguard to fit over the base rifle mechanism. Hairey apple cuts away a huge chunk of the BAR 10 body and still had to grind away the inside of the upper handguard. This is especially true when doing the longer A3 handguard. (Hairys is the shorter A1) When you cut away that much of the Bar 10 did it effect performance or function? It seems like it might? Mine always ended up with a pencil thin handguard in places. Since the handguard is not weight bearing at all and is flush to solid parts this isn't an issue but it does require way too much work.
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Post by hairy apple on Oct 21, 2010 11:39:09 GMT -5
No, it did not effect the performance. That outer barrel was just an empty tube, it had no effect on the inner workings of the bar 10 at all. I should take a few photos of that, it was the scariest part of the build for sure.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 25, 2010 0:35:53 GMT -5
So the outer tube there doesn't help keep things pressurized and air tight? In your photo it appears you cut it well over the hop up area which seems counter intuitive but if you say it's okay I'll give it a go. This cut didn't have anything to do with your rifles ultimate failure to keep functioning?
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Post by hairy apple on Oct 25, 2010 0:50:36 GMT -5
No, not at all. The nozle pushes into the rubber part of the hopup when you rack the bolt forward. That is the airseal. It's all in cylinder and the hopup. The outer barrel has nothing to do with the function of the gun. The reason my gun no longer works is not to due with poor design, but I lost the bolt handle and the knob on the back of the bolt that holds the handle on. Other then the fact it's super hard to pull the bolt back without a handle, the gun actually still works.
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