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Post by MAUSER LOVER on Apr 26, 2009 12:43:09 GMT -5
Hey, I would have torn up a war relic too since it's a free country. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! glad ya didnt tear up a nice k98....i know some who has ripped apart 6 nice k98s just for the bolt......and junked the rest!!! I wanna cry! |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant 
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 26, 2009 15:02:53 GMT -5
That's horrible since only about six million + Mauserr-s were made.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 26, 2009 15:10:05 GMT -5
Yeah, the one hundred to perhaps 120 converted airsoft Mausers is really going to cut into the 8 million+ Mausers that were produced. I'm afraid I'm not going to lose any sleep over them.
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Post by Rekkon on May 4, 2009 21:12:30 GMT -5
I was cleaning my Ersatzjack Mauser (I purchased #8) tonight and for the heck of it, I decided to chrono a few shots. The following (in order) are in feet per second attained using KSC .2 gram BBs with hop up.
467.9
467.9 (my chrono seems to give exactly the same consecutive readings every so often)
463.0
473.0
461.7
547.1 (!!!)
486.2
475.6
475.6
488.9
494.4
483.5
476.9
473.0
Averaged out that comes to 481.05 fps.
I used it in a few skirmishes again this past Saturday, and like Shady at Autumn Advance, several players on my team were startled by the snap! of passing BBs as I gave them supporting fire. I let our self-styled sniper (highly upgraded modern rifle, ghillie suit, no AEGs) try it briefly, and his reaction was a mix of maniacal laughter and the usual "I love this rifle!"
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Feb 18, 2010 0:56:53 GMT -5
Mauser 12 is the newest addition to the ranks of the 3rd PzGren Div. This one uses the PDI trigger group and piston/spring/spring guide upgrades and a tightbore laylax barrel. Shoots at consistent 440-FPS and I think has the best magazine fit yet. They just fit perfectly.  A real old dirty and rusty Mauser with no German markings was sacrificed for this one. The stock cleaned up pretty nicely though. It needs a sling which the new owner is going to provide.   Next up is a VZ-24 conversion and the challenge there I think is in the upper handguard. But I have to use up the last of my parts. |
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Feb 18, 2010 18:52:16 GMT -5
That looks really nice EJ. I love the wood stock color and condition of it.
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Feb 18, 2010 19:23:56 GMT -5
Luck of the draw on the wood stock. Some are prettier than others. Thanks for the compliment. Coming from you that is high praise. |
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kalbs
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,142
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Post by kalbs on Feb 18, 2010 19:37:30 GMT -5
EJ, You are lucky to be able to get real steel parts from donor guns. Hopefully I can smuggle some stocks and parts back this summer from the US.
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Post by Paul Rech on Feb 21, 2010 8:10:06 GMT -5
Thanks again Otto, she's a real beauty. The stock has finally come back alive. Like I stated on the MOA boards, if only people could have seen it before your incredible makeover, she was in real rough condition.
This particular mauser was made in Belgium by Fabrique Nationale de Herstal. Not sure if was reissued post war, but there are the little adler markings on some of the hardware.
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Mar 7, 2010 13:10:53 GMT -5
If you don't mind, I have a question for you. I have been having trouble with the rear sight. I have been putting one screw in to keep it in place and then epoxy. However after dropping it and having it fall off twice their must be a better way. Its hard as the screw only has a thin piece of metal to grip onto as I can't go any deeper because of the hop up. Thanks!
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Mar 7, 2010 14:10:48 GMT -5
With the rear sight I just use liquid metal epoxy called JB Weld. Get that at any hardware store. The trick is to press the sight on tight to get the metal to bend as much as possible first before gluing and then score the top of the barrel (it won't be seen anyway and that allows the liquid metal places to grip) under where the sight sits and rough up the inside of the sight too. This way the dried epoxy has plenty of fissures to seep into. Clean up the overflow with mineral spirits before it sets too long for a nice fake weld line as it will goop out when you press the sight down. Use lots of liquid metal under the sight. Don't be stingy. |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 7, 2010 14:16:09 GMT -5
JB weld is pretty amazing stuff. Your rifles always look spectacular and from reports from the field work as well as they look!
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Mar 8, 2010 17:34:04 GMT -5
I loaded up on the epoxy, got a little carried away and over loaded, a bit messy. But anyways its sticking on really well now. I doubt it will fall off any time soon, or anytime at all for that matter. Thanks for the advice!
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jun 12, 2010 20:24:37 GMT -5
Hey Ersatzjack could you explain how you make those mag catches. I need to do one for a rifle I am working on as I lost the original BAR-10 one. If you don't want to give it away thats fine.
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Jun 12, 2010 21:55:00 GMT -5
Sgt Tom - Sure I'll give advice. I like giving advice.  See page 2 - second photo from the top and third photo from the bottom of the page. Those are good reference shots. I just take a piece of spring steel and drill two holes in the ends and on the magazine end add a small round top machine screw with a brass knurled knob (find in any hardware section). Then shave a dip in the magazine (but don't go to deep or you break through) so the screw head sits in the depression. On the other end, use a wavy washer on the inside of the trigger guard housing so that there exists a small amount of friction so the spring arm doesn't swing back in way of the magazine when changing. You'll want to have two nuts locked against one another on the exterior of the trigger housing but under the spring. Tighten so that there is no slop but that the spring arm swings pretty freely with a little pressure. A third nut goes on top of the spring to finish the connection. Now where do you get the spring. I ran out of some I had and tried some window sash spring material and closet wheel runners (hardware store sources for flat spring stock that is slightly thin) but found a perfect piece right in the rear sight of a RS Mauser. Take the spring steel out of the rear sight and glue or weld in the sight. The sight won't open up but you don't need elevation changes with these rifles anyhow. Just lock the sight at 100 M. Then using the spring you have an excellent strong piece of spring steel just the right length. Drilling spring steel is tricky. Make a dent and go very slowly. Hope this helps. Cosmetically, this is not the preferred way to make a latch but it works so well in combat and your hand covers it most of the time anyway. Also, you keep three mounting points to the receiver this way for a more solid build. I like the trade-off. |
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jun 12, 2010 22:24:08 GMT -5
Thanks for taking the time to right all that up. I have two rifles, the first I lost the mag catch and on the 2nd I didn't. The trouble with the 2nd one is the mag isn't being pressed in hard enough so the BB's won't feed. I am not sure why. The mag catch should keep it in place, but it apparently isn't. So I thought your design might work better as it puts downward pressure on the magazine instead of just keeping it in place like the BAR-10 one does. Hopefully it'll work. Thanks for your help!
~Sgttom
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Aug 4, 2011 16:52:38 GMT -5
This is Mauser #13 and just finished in time for the Ft McCoy 2011 event. Fritz Moos is the owner.   It has the laylax upgrades and shoot near 500-FPS. Field testing this weekend if everything works out with Fritz. Fritz provided an aftermarket stock for this one and hence it looks so new. Not a Boyd's but some other maker. |
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cairo1
Private 1st Class
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Post by cairo1 on Aug 4, 2011 23:44:16 GMT -5
awesome work as always buddy. I also have a gun finished just in time to make a premiere. its a secret though. |
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Post by csaky on Sept 30, 2011 8:50:29 GMT -5
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Post by FlyingSquirrelcat on Oct 2, 2011 6:38:06 GMT -5
^^Hello! I made this conversion too, but I think the cheapest conversion. I used a dboys K98 (ABS stock) and AGM VSR10 for the donor gun. ^^ ABS stocks can be the way to go my man, If you know how to prep the plastic for painting and staining, it can look very convincing. Of course, if you have the money on hand it's always nice to see some real maple. One thing i am really not a fan of is this new MAGPUL craze. I guess it's more appealing to have a super-soaker as apposed to a classic steel and wood design these days, but than again I don't understand ACU either. But in fear of taking this thread of on a tangent, I digress. Sir, that is one beautiful conversion and I applaud the economic airsofter. Cheers to you And as for the 8 million K98s in the world, don't forget they Gerry's carried a wide variety of other bolt actions such as the T/38 Turkish manufactured Mauser, the original Straight bold G98( The same rifle carried by Hitler himself and the rest of the army in WWI. Hitler fell in love with it and is why he believed the bolt-action was the superior rifle for the standard infantry, surprisingly enough it was ready to be issued to troops as early as mid 43' but because of Hitlers bias he didn't approve of it until it was presented to him firsthand and he was given the opportunity to fire it), and the K98b and k98a which varied slightly from the 98K design. I could go on but most others have been named somewhere in this forum and sorry if I'm preaching  |
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Oct 2, 2011 10:02:43 GMT -5
Nice job. The rear sight work must have taken forever! All that metal sanding, such a pain. Looks like it functions very well. |
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Post by GermanShepherd on Jul 31, 2012 10:09:35 GMT -5
I have a question ersatz. How do you make your bolt handle?
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Aug 7, 2013 23:18:31 GMT -5
I have a question ersatz. How do you make your bolt handle? Take a real steel bolt handle and marry it up with the Laylax Metal bolt handle upgrade. Just some cutting and welding involved. I thread the handles and screw them together before welding. This way you have a nice strong handle for the stronger spring set-ups. Sorry for the delayed answer but I didn't see the question. And now on to other matters. Mauser 14 is finished. Whew! 14 of these already? This one is for Aldrich. He was patient with me and I had trouble getting this one done in a timely fashion, but that was because of other projects and not a lack of interest. This one has a few cosmetic upgrades missing (the safety area and receiver work) as I was trying to control the cost but functionally it is one of my best if not the best. No functional shortcuts were taken. The bolt handle is not 98K perfect but again, that was for cost savings as I had a close lookalike at hand which was going to waste and it saved cost. This one is a straight shooter and hard hitting. I'll post FPS when I know. Bayonet and ammo pouch not included.    It won't be my last. I have parts for one more. Just don't know when I will get to it. |
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Post by wilhelmmoa on Aug 8, 2013 0:38:02 GMT -5
Pretty |
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Aug 3, 2014 0:30:26 GMT -5
I just completed my last Mauser build. Fifteen is enough. This should set minds to rest in the Mauser collecting community.  I used up all my last supplies on this one. It is a hard and straight shooter. Easily busts through the bottom of the coke can and makes a good dent on the other end (the top). Quality parts throughout. I will chrono at a future event, but I am thinking 450-FPS to 525-FPS. The sling is awesome for a reproduction. I don't know where I got it from.  I plan to keep this one for awhile as a spare or loaner Mauser as they are pretty reliable and I'm not ready to sell it. But eventually this or mine will be up on the chopping block. I don't plan on building any more K-98's however. Parts are actually drying up, the price of real ones climbing fast and I'm burnt out on this build. Other projects are calling. Here is what it looks like -   |
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Post by LϟϟAH1944 on Aug 3, 2014 11:06:30 GMT -5
Absolutely wonderful work! Those are perhaps the best conversions ive seen, due to the real steel parts!
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Aug 3, 2014 18:10:55 GMT -5
There is no doubt that Ersatz is the master of the Kar 98 conversions. Thanks primarilly to his efforts there are reliable and powerful replicas numbering well over 30 guns being used on WW2 airsoft battlefields with many many new efforts inspired by his work. Great inspirations to others and a wonderful contribution to our hobby.
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Post by crono986 on Mar 5, 2018 13:09:50 GMT -5
Guys,
I'm trying to find a more economic way to make outer barrels. Currently, I'm using M16 outer barrels, and attaching Kar98k front sights to them. That's great, because it fits the inner barrel perfectly, I have a threaded barrel, and they come relatively cheap at $20 - $40 a piece. However, it takes a bit of labor to fit it underneath the bands, and you have to mill out some of your stock to get it to fit.
Where do you guys usually source your outer barrels on Kar98k conversions?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 5, 2018 13:30:30 GMT -5
The most common source I used was appropriate sized copper tubing from the plumbing or electrical aisles at Home Depot. Relatively inexpensive, easy to cut to length. I find I have to grit sand them extensively for the paint to hold and even then periodic repaints are needed. Wrapped thin strips of tape around the brass inner barrel serves as spacers and provides a snug friction seal. I usually position three such spacers.
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adrg
Private
Posts: 211 
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Post by adrg on Mar 6, 2018 1:26:39 GMT -5
I am using pipe for curtains hanging with spacers inside. 16mm diameter looks the best fit and also can come painted silver or black, making it easier to finish. The draw back is that you can't thread it - the wall is barely 1mm.
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I used up all my last supplies on this one. It is a hard and straight shooter. Easily busts through the bottom of the coke can and makes a good dent on the other end (the top). Quality parts throughout. I will chrono at a future event, but I am thinking 450-FPS to 525-FPS. The sling is awesome for a reproduction. I don't know where I got it from. 
