Post by gman on Jul 18, 2010 12:16:16 GMT -5
1st, I'd like to dedicate this to 2ndbat for his inspiration. Going thru this I have a new appreciation for what you contribute to this community and want to say thank you!
2nd to my good friend HornetWSO / Chumley, I cannot take all the credit, most of this was his ideas. I’m just the guy who had the time to execute those ideas.
I had two goals in mind while building this;
1. As authentic M1 Garand as possible.
2. Able to disassemble it with minimal effort.
Tools used to do this assembly. Wheel is a metal wheel cutter attachment for the dremel.
This gun is based on CYMA M14. The buildup of magazine area came from 2nd Bat's kit the rest was bought off of either E-Bay, when it was not redonkulous in $ or from Numrich. www.gunpartscorp.com/Default.aspx).
I am not going to go thru all of the steps I did, since it is well documented on this forum, but cover some of the alterations I did to obtain my two goals above.
1st Goal: As authentic M1 Garand as possible.
A: I wanted fully functional operating gas rod. I purchased a 1/2 '' medal rod from Home Depot. Then cut the existing gas operating rod down to 5’’. Since the ½’’ medal rod will not fit, I spliced the gas operating rod from the top in half, which widens the operating rod for the ½’’ medal rod to fit in. Then use JB Weld to hold the two rods together. You can see from the pic, how it was spliced and glued/welded together.
Then cut the other end of the medal rod so the length fits into the gas assembly when the M1 is assembled. Next step is to put back the spring and the rod so to create tension when the Hold Hands (name from the m14 manual) is pulled back.
I drilled a hole 5 ½’’ up the new medal operating rod and finished nail thru it. Then JB Weld it and dremel off the ends of the nails sticking thru.
Fully functional operating gas rod.
B: The barrel of the M14, when assembled to the M1, is too short to fit into the gas assembly, by 10/16’’ So had to dissemble the barrel, slide the outer barrel and cut it in half. Then I bought a short copper tube ½’’ x 1 1/8 ‘’(Home Depot) and splice that in half so to fit on the outside of outer barrel. Then JB Weld the two the barrels with the added 10/16’’ spacing.. This added to the barrel length to fit part way into the front gas assembly.
Finished and spray painted black
Unfinished, the copper tube discussed is to the far right in the pic.
2nd Goal: Able to disassemble it with minimal effort.
C: I did not want to glue the gas assembly to the barrel. To achieve this I took the small allen screw from the left/right revolve piece from the disassemble M14. Then cut it down to 3/16’’.
Pic of allen screw in the allen wrench.
On the gas assembly, slide the front sight off and from the top of the front sight,
drilled a hole the same width as the allen screw thru the gas assembly and thru the outer barrel.
This is a critical step. Do not drill with the outer barrel over the inner brass barrel, bad things will happen. Also before you drill you want to assemble the M14 with rear and front hand guards to measure were you need to drill. It is critical to align the hole with the gas assembly and the outer barrel.
Reattach the outer barrel over the inner barrel and back to the gun. Attach rear and front hand guard, then slide the gas assembly. If the stars are aligned, the gas assembly hole should line up with the outer barrel hole and the allen screw will fit into the hole, flush with the top of the hole.
The test is to slide the front sight over screw. The sight holds the screw in place and the gas assembly holds front and rear hand guards in place. Keep in mind the outer barrel does not completely slide into the gas assembly, just enough to hold everything together.
Those are my alterations to assemble a M1 Garand. If you have questions, need to see additional pics, or anything else do not hesitate to ask.
... G Man ... out
2nd to my good friend HornetWSO / Chumley, I cannot take all the credit, most of this was his ideas. I’m just the guy who had the time to execute those ideas.
I had two goals in mind while building this;
1. As authentic M1 Garand as possible.
2. Able to disassemble it with minimal effort.
Tools used to do this assembly. Wheel is a metal wheel cutter attachment for the dremel.
This gun is based on CYMA M14. The buildup of magazine area came from 2nd Bat's kit the rest was bought off of either E-Bay, when it was not redonkulous in $ or from Numrich. www.gunpartscorp.com/Default.aspx).
I am not going to go thru all of the steps I did, since it is well documented on this forum, but cover some of the alterations I did to obtain my two goals above.
1st Goal: As authentic M1 Garand as possible.
A: I wanted fully functional operating gas rod. I purchased a 1/2 '' medal rod from Home Depot. Then cut the existing gas operating rod down to 5’’. Since the ½’’ medal rod will not fit, I spliced the gas operating rod from the top in half, which widens the operating rod for the ½’’ medal rod to fit in. Then use JB Weld to hold the two rods together. You can see from the pic, how it was spliced and glued/welded together.
Then cut the other end of the medal rod so the length fits into the gas assembly when the M1 is assembled. Next step is to put back the spring and the rod so to create tension when the Hold Hands (name from the m14 manual) is pulled back.
I drilled a hole 5 ½’’ up the new medal operating rod and finished nail thru it. Then JB Weld it and dremel off the ends of the nails sticking thru.
Fully functional operating gas rod.
B: The barrel of the M14, when assembled to the M1, is too short to fit into the gas assembly, by 10/16’’ So had to dissemble the barrel, slide the outer barrel and cut it in half. Then I bought a short copper tube ½’’ x 1 1/8 ‘’(Home Depot) and splice that in half so to fit on the outside of outer barrel. Then JB Weld the two the barrels with the added 10/16’’ spacing.. This added to the barrel length to fit part way into the front gas assembly.
Finished and spray painted black
Unfinished, the copper tube discussed is to the far right in the pic.
2nd Goal: Able to disassemble it with minimal effort.
C: I did not want to glue the gas assembly to the barrel. To achieve this I took the small allen screw from the left/right revolve piece from the disassemble M14. Then cut it down to 3/16’’.
Pic of allen screw in the allen wrench.
On the gas assembly, slide the front sight off and from the top of the front sight,
drilled a hole the same width as the allen screw thru the gas assembly and thru the outer barrel.
This is a critical step. Do not drill with the outer barrel over the inner brass barrel, bad things will happen. Also before you drill you want to assemble the M14 with rear and front hand guards to measure were you need to drill. It is critical to align the hole with the gas assembly and the outer barrel.
Reattach the outer barrel over the inner barrel and back to the gun. Attach rear and front hand guard, then slide the gas assembly. If the stars are aligned, the gas assembly hole should line up with the outer barrel hole and the allen screw will fit into the hole, flush with the top of the hole.
The test is to slide the front sight over screw. The sight holds the screw in place and the gas assembly holds front and rear hand guards in place. Keep in mind the outer barrel does not completely slide into the gas assembly, just enough to hold everything together.
Those are my alterations to assemble a M1 Garand. If you have questions, need to see additional pics, or anything else do not hesitate to ask.
... G Man ... out