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Post by whiterook on Jan 14, 2011 9:55:57 GMT -5
Ok, it's time for my winter project. Thanks to everyone on this board, I'm going into my winter project with confidence. I will provide pictures, you tube video, and text to log my progress over the next month or two as I put this thing togther.
My primary conversion will be to fit M14 Internals into the real steel parts of an M-1 Garand.
As a backup, in case I really screw up my primary, I’ve got 2ndBat’s “Seconds” Resin Conversion Kit … which is a much easier conversion, but I think the look and feel of real steel M-1 parts is a superior product …
Anyway, stay tuned … same BAT time, same BAT channel
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Post by whiterook on Jan 14, 2011 20:43:49 GMT -5
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jan 15, 2011 17:17:27 GMT -5
Looks really nice like you said. Good luck getting the M14 internals to fit right.
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Post by newcomer on Jan 15, 2011 18:32:13 GMT -5
I'm attempting a garand conversion myself sometime, ill definately follow this as it would prove helpful if i do decide to get a garand stock to work off of.
Best of luck like sgttom said
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Post by FlyingSquirrelcat on Jan 15, 2011 18:41:40 GMT -5
Good luck mate but thats coming along great
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Post by cole97 on Jan 16, 2011 0:11:54 GMT -5
im glad you got a hold of a decent m1 garand stock. i used a $15 beat up stock off of ebay. it looked alright once i restained it but yours will look 5 times better.
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jan 16, 2011 13:56:36 GMT -5
I would feel a little guilty cutting up a nice guy like that. I guess there were millions of Garands made though, so its not like your destroying an FG42
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Post by whiterook on Jan 16, 2011 16:28:12 GMT -5
I would feel a little guilty cutting up a nice guy like that. I guess there were millions of Garands made though, so its not like your destroying an FG42 It is a post-war stock ... really nice one. Like I said, almost too nice ... but it was cheap ... $35.
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Post by moviepropman on Jan 16, 2011 17:47:01 GMT -5
I would feel a little guilty cutting up a nice guy like that. I guess there were millions of Garands made though, so its not like your destroying an FG42 It is a post-war stock ... really nice one. Like I said, almost too nice ... but it was cheap ... $35. It's still being used as an airsoft gun though, so it's not a complete loss. I mean if you're going to throw it with the logs on the fire or whittle it into a toothpick, then maybe that's the line.
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Post by whiterook on Jan 16, 2011 20:30:43 GMT -5
Phase 1 - Cutting the utility holes in the butt stock to make a single space for the battery. Tools used: Rigid Job Max Osculating Cutting head, long blade wood chisel. Showing my FAVORITE airsoft battery - 7.4v 2300 mAh 20C Lipo. It is a mere 3-3/4" x 1-3/8" x 5/8"
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Post by cole97 on Jan 16, 2011 21:05:19 GMT -5
make sure you go slow and check your progress. there were many times where i couldve snapped my stock while drilling it. others where i risked hurting myself. the place for the motor is the hardest and just be sure not to remove too much wood around there, and away you go! it looks great and i hope it turns out looking great!
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Post by CharleyNovember on Jan 16, 2011 21:10:27 GMT -5
What about disecting it up the middle carving out what you need then pinning and gluing the two sides back together? Possibly an interior reinforcement with fiberglass cloth layer between the two?
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Post by whiterook on Jan 16, 2011 21:50:56 GMT -5
What about disecting it up the middle carving out what you need then pinning and gluing the two sides back together? Possibly an interior reinforcement with fiberglass cloth layer between the two? You know, I thought about that ... but the re-assembly would have been a knightmare ... I think we would have lost too much wood in cutting the stock into two halves.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 19, 2011 22:15:34 GMT -5
my gun never needed reinforcement. i think people anticipate that too much. it doesnt need any at all if you do it right. ive already dropped it a good 3 times on accident and its still perfect, no cracks, nothing.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 23, 2011 14:44:06 GMT -5
Quality wood is amazingly strong even when left quite thin however working inside the stock to clear out the hollow sections needed is really, really hard. Even with great tools. One recommendation I have for your efforts is to masking tape off the areas around when you are drilling, dremeling and chiseling so the inevitable slips don't marr the outside finish you want to maintain. The other tip is to hold the stock with an ungloved hand at those areas where you are going to have to dremel to a thin tolerance. You will feel the heat when the dremel gets close to the sidewall and that can help guide you.
I will watch this thread closely and am anxious to follow your progress.
WW2 era stocks were too thin in the neck to accomdate the M14 mechanicals but some post war stocks do provide just enough room if you have the precision patience and right tools to do it. Be careful however as I ruined several attempting it and was never fully happy with any of the end results. Others have managed it far better than I and they have my utmost respect.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 23, 2011 14:59:10 GMT -5
Quality wood is amazingly strong even when left quite thin however working inside the stock to clear out the hollow sections needed is really, really hard. Even with great tools. One recommendation I have for your efforts is to masking tape off the areas around when you are drilling, dremeling and chiseling so the inevitable slips don't marr the outside finish you want to maintain. The other tip is to hold the stock with an ungloved hand at those areas where you are going to have to dremel to a thin tolerance. You will feel the heat when the dremel gets close to the sidewall and that can help guide you. I will watch this thread closely and am anxious to follow your progress. WW2 era stocks were too thin in the neck to accomdate the M14 mechanicals but some post war stocks do provide just enough room if you have the precision patience and right tools to do it. Be careful however as I ruined several attempting it and was never fully happy with any of the end results. Others have managed it far better than I and they have my utmost respect. that is advice to live by if your doing this. the tape wouldve saved me having to cosmetically repair the outside from all the scratches. also, if your working to close tolerences, i eventually took some metal off the motor cage. not alot, but enough for it to fit better and slide out easier.
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Post by whiterook on Jan 23, 2011 20:05:23 GMT -5
Thanks for all the advice guys ... I'm have fun doing this and I am trying to take it slow to ensure I get it right ... Phase 2 - Removing wood from inside the reciever area. Once have have both "lips" removed the gear box will fit in nicely, actually with extra room. Phase 3 will be to shape the stock area at the rear of the reciever so I can start drilling out the hole for the motor (Phase 4). This is the process that has me the most concerned.
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Post by freelancer on Jan 23, 2011 20:19:05 GMT -5
Looking good so far. keep up the good work
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Post by cole97 on Jan 23, 2011 22:42:58 GMT -5
it looks like you removed too much wood around the trigger guard. its supposed to have a little lip towards the bottom so the trigger guard fits in snugly and hides the gear box. i hope im just seeing things!! i did that too. i had to use JB weld to build it back and fix it. i really hope im wrong about this! not to criticize your work of course. at least its cleaner than mine
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Post by whiterook on Jan 24, 2011 10:24:22 GMT -5
it looks like you removed too much wood around the trigger guard. its supposed to have a little lip towards the bottom so the trigger guard fits in snugly and hides the gear box. i hope im just seeing things!! i did that too. i had to use JB weld to build it back and fix it. i really hope im wrong about this! not to criticize your work of course. at least its cleaner than mine I think you're right ... I'll have to fill it in with something ... JB Weld or Bondo etc ...
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jan 24, 2011 11:26:06 GMT -5
I'd try dyna glass. I've heard from 2nd Bat it works real well. I am not really a fan of bondo, it isn't too strong.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 24, 2011 13:33:17 GMT -5
Bondo and JB weld if it's applied to fill too large an area is too brittle (although if you implant screws as a sort of rebar it works okay.) Early efforts I had with assorted resin pastes produced mixed results and proved unsatsfcatory. The dyna glass filler has been quite resilient, Very strong, sandable and holds a stain just fine. You can mix in dyes that minimizes the visual impact even before your stains. It's a dark sahde to begin with and that helps as well. I mix a brown and black stain in and come up with a very close expresso shade of dark brown.
Dyna glass can be bought in small quantities at most hardware stores and boat repair places as well as plastic supply outlets. You can wrap the part you intend to fill to, in masking tape and coat the masking tape with mold release wax. Then apply your dyna glass and once hardened you can remove the part leaving a flush and properly shaped fit. (Note your shape has to be conducive to such an attempt. (Tapered with no over hangs.) I hope that makes sense?
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Post by Billy on Jan 24, 2011 13:38:28 GMT -5
The most fragile place is a neck stock. I saw two PPSH-41 which have been made of original breadboard models. Butt neck from within strengthened glass-wool blanket and epoxy pitch In the toy М1, I too have strengthened a neck stock. You have good strong wood, but superfluous protection won't prevent.
I wish good luck in work
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Post by moviepropman on Jan 24, 2011 15:49:44 GMT -5
Have you guys ever tried Smooth-On's Plasti Paste II? I've used this stuff for a while now and I'm very happy. Will be doing an Enfield stock with it to test durability for my Enfield kit.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 25, 2011 1:31:21 GMT -5
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