roma
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Post by roma on Jun 26, 2011 11:01:48 GMT -5
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roma
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Post by roma on Jun 27, 2011 15:33:56 GMT -5
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Post by captainbrenandsten on Jun 27, 2011 15:56:51 GMT -5
What scope is that on there? I bought one at a gun show just last year.
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roma
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Post by roma on Jun 27, 2011 16:05:56 GMT -5
What scope is that on there? I bought one at a gun show just last year. Weaver k2.5
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JHank
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Post by JHank on Jun 27, 2011 18:08:15 GMT -5
Fantastic help!
What did you fashion the On/Off switch assembly out of?
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roma
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Post by roma on Jun 27, 2011 19:17:53 GMT -5
Fantastic help! What did you fashion the On/Off switch assembly out of? The switch itself is original and the body is made from steel cylinder of door latch (or door bolt).
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roma
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Post by roma on Jul 19, 2011 5:12:10 GMT -5
In order to answer some questions I will try to clarify how I made bolt area. Generally I fitted original parts in VSR scheme. 1. Cut the real bolt with handle, width is the same like VSR handle. Then with welding and pieces of steel restore real bolt piece to VSR handle cylinder shape. Or for my second Springfield I simply ordered a copy of real bolt handle with VSR cylinder shape. Drill two pits for pin in two positions (open-closed). It is necessary to make a depression in forward part with a file (like on the VSR handle) for bolt stopper. 2. Main body of safety. Cut the thread area and enlarge the hole to fit on VSR cylinder tail. After that small spring from button on the left side of the body will fall out and button will move freely. If you enalrge the hole for cylinder tail exactly then it will be såated tightly, but if it move back during shooting you can drill a pit in cylinder tail just for this side button and it will block safety body on the tail when button pushed down. 3. Cut the cocking piece as shown on picture. It will act like a locking VSR very rear bolt part. So it should be something like this
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Post by volkssturm on Jul 19, 2011 11:23:46 GMT -5
Very impressive work.
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roma
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Post by roma on Nov 12, 2012 14:14:12 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 12, 2012 16:07:35 GMT -5
Love it! Awesome work (as always). Thank you for sharing. Very cool. This needs a sticky!
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roma
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Post by roma on Nov 12, 2012 23:00:52 GMT -5
Love it! Awesome work (as always). Thank you for sharing. Very cool. This needs a stckey! Thank you! (What das stckey mean?)
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Post by jimmiroquai on Nov 14, 2012 7:43:59 GMT -5
Beautiful!
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 14, 2012 20:24:07 GMT -5
It means this thread needs to be set up as a permanent resource for everyone so it wont drift off once people stop commenting on it.
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roma
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Post by roma on Nov 15, 2012 6:58:25 GMT -5
It means this thread needs to be set up as a permanent resource for everyone so it wont drift off once people stop commenting on it. Now I got it. Thanks!
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Apr 20, 2013 16:11:43 GMT -5
What did you use to get widen the hole in the bolt sleeve?
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 22, 2013 12:45:22 GMT -5
I used different means on my different Springfields, portable drill, dremel, drilling machine, depends on steel quality of bolt parts, quality of drill and mood of myself.
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 22, 2013 15:38:46 GMT -5
You have asked about how to fix the ladder sight. This picture from my Springfield 1903A1. First of all I lengthened receiver with ring of tube with similar diameter. Then I bought complete original part, so I took off some metal from inside of tube but anyway I had to cut along the lower part of the tube to increase diameter and fix it on VSR outer barrel.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 22, 2013 16:57:41 GMT -5
I took a shortcut here and cut horizontally at the natural seam on both sides and simply welded it onto the VSR rifle. For my purposes I was perfectly happy with it and it appears much easier though less authentic than your approach.
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 23, 2013 7:34:00 GMT -5
I took a shortcut here and cut horizontally at the natural seam on both sides and simply welded it onto the VSR rifle. For my purposes I was perfectly happy with it and it appears much easier though less authentic than your approach. O, do you mean hot work? VSR outer barrel is some kind of alloy there?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 23, 2013 10:43:21 GMT -5
I used a cream weld (the product here is called JBweld ). It is a resin epoxy that when the instructions are followed properly works remarkably well. It serves as both a filler and an adhesive. It is especially useful with airsoft custom work where often the zinc alloy metals do not accept conventionl welds. Do you have this product or others like it in Russia? Once dry it can be filed, sanded and painted.
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 23, 2013 10:49:47 GMT -5
I used a cream weld (the product here is called JBweld ). It is a resin epoxy that when the instructions are followed properly works remarkably well. It serves as both a filler and an adhesive. It is especially useful with airsoft custom work where often the zinc alloy metals do not accept conventionl welds. Do you have this product or others like it in Russia? Once dry it can be filed, sanded and painted. A yes, we have so named "cold welding" cream, but I prefer "PoxyPol" or "Epoxy metal"
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Post by gearkrieg on Aug 17, 2015 13:06:01 GMT -5
Guys, can you explain me what is the difference betweeen the M1903 A3 and the A4 models?
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Aug 17, 2015 15:52:21 GMT -5
a4 is used for snipers since it has no rear and front site so you can mount a scope. I believe the stock is different as well. Could be wrong but i believe those are the major differences
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Aug 17, 2015 16:06:17 GMT -5
The A4 used a C stock as shown in Romas latest version vs the Scant stock or straight stock (like you see on the S&T springfield) . As mentioned the A4 did not include either a front or rear sight. On the actual M1903A4 a number of internal enhancements were provided to designate it an "A4" such as higher quality barrels and tighter tolerances throughout including trigger pull and overall fit attributes.
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