2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jun 12, 2015 21:34:17 GMT -5
Here is a thread for everyone to post enhancements they've performed on the new S&T Springfield with focus on both performance and cosmetic upgrades. Collectively if we can share great alterations that we can do to make this gun more skirmishable and more authentic then we all win.
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Dracul
Master sergeant
Posts: 1,341
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Post by Dracul on Jun 13, 2015 19:50:20 GMT -5
Some aging pics from 2ndBat:
Two additional coats of lindseed oil Light sanding on logical wear areas The bayonet lug is slightly too wide for at least a reproduction bayonet to slide on. Also the barrel without the orange tip is slightly too small for the bayonet ring. With a little grinding the bayonet slides into place I know stuka will want to know. The workshop rubber bayonets mounting slot has to be enlarged even with the lug ground down. A strong suggestion if you mount a real or replica bayonet on an airsoft rifle is carry it with the sheath mounted. Lots of nasty thinks happen with exposed mounted bayonets that no one expects. "The only soldiers in a bayonet fight are the quick and the dead.". A quote I remember from infantry basic course!
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stuka
Sergeant
The one and only
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Post by stuka on Jun 13, 2015 22:04:10 GMT -5
Haha thanks 2nd bat, I was wondering but didn't want to ask haha. My friend actually wanted to get the s&t 1903 so he sold me his g&g for the price of the s&t. If we ever get another ww2 game down in florida I would like to make a crate and buy a couple 1903's to fill it as extra guns/props
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Post by reichelderfer on Jun 13, 2015 23:06:28 GMT -5
Since I wont have one for some time. I highly suggest that everyone to do the following to see some type of immediate improvement.
1.) Clean the barrel 2.) Take down your gun to get familiar with the internals. 3.) If your mechanically inclined, take apart your barrel group and do this: 3.a.) Swap out the bucking for a better and or harder one, I suggest Prometheus on the high end and Lonex on the cheaper end. 3.b.) If you have the tools, airsoft cleaning rod that came with the gun OR .22 caliber cleaning rod and .22 patches, and a drill, some Brasso. Polish your barrel, you should go through at least 4-5 patches before it gets clearish. 4.) Use heavy bbs, I recommend at the amount you may be shooting, that going the full 9 yards and using/shooting .43s is the best option for supreme accuracy and ruling on the bbfield, even against full auto people on a regular weekend. 5.) Have fun and build a small armory if you can and introduce people into WW2 softing by doing some bolt action fun.
Questions concerns???
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jun 14, 2015 1:22:12 GMT -5
This rifle as it sits would need a Substantially upgraded spring to manage .43 BBs. I agree that the heavier the BB the less impact from wind or brush. If you are going to properly polish the barrel you need to remove it and push from the rear to the muzzle. Hop up and seal enhancements throughout I believe are going to generate the greatest return for the least amount of time and my ney.
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stuka
Sergeant
The one and only
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Post by stuka on Jun 14, 2015 1:51:57 GMT -5
.43 seems pretty heavy I would think for most airsoft guns. Most people I know use .25's, occasionally up to .30. Considering that you're going to use it, well you should use it as a main line rifle, you're not going to want to use too heavy of a bb especially if you get around 20' assuming the fps isn't over 350
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jun 14, 2015 14:59:29 GMT -5
The weight of the BB doesn't,alter the jouelles of power that remains constant. A heavier BB shot from the same gun will simply exit the muzzle at a lower fps. The amount of reduction will vary somewhat depending on factors like barrel length etc. An example is a rifle shooting .20 at 387 fps might shoot .25s at 348 fps. The kinetic energy will be identical. Forget about hop up for a second and some may be surprised to learn the .25s will fly further. This is because they slow down slower! At some point the laws of diminishing returns applies and the weight of the shot is too great for the power of the spring. Such would be the case for a stock spring and .40 grams in this rifle. There are formulas for calculating comparable enertia for assorted weight BBs at various fps relative to .20s so safety implementation and uniformity can be employed.
For main battle weapons I think 420 fps and below with .20 grams is at the upper limits of what should be acceptable.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jun 17, 2015 13:50:03 GMT -5
I drilled out the butt stock hollow another inch so I will be able to store an emergency spare magazine there. I actually don't have any spares yet but will when they are available and reasonably priced. I used a drill with a long bit and dremel with an extension piece. It was a very easy modification. The magazine fits nice and snug and doesn't rattle around in there. A cardboard wrap might be a good idea however. The trap door is very tightly sprung so access is more challenging than I would like. (Better tight than loose I suppose). The process of reloading this rifle is certainly NOT seamless. The mag plate has a spring activated catch that is a bit tricky, the hinged plate then must be pulled open and is a bit flimsy. You then reach into the magwell and slide the threaded thin, narrow magazine out and remove it and then with some care and precision do de in your replacement magazine. This is NOT something you will want to do in proximity to the enemy and require your direct focus. I always try to train myself to be able execute a reload by feel alone while keeping my focus downrange. I do not see that as possible with this gun. Thankfully the 20 plus ready rounds represents for reloads in an actual Springfield.
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Post by wwiiguy on Jun 7, 2016 7:01:16 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jun 7, 2016 11:45:19 GMT -5
Thanks. I actually have some spares coming from Dracul since he is going to do a VSR and S&T marriage.
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