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Post by Guinness on Nov 5, 2005 22:54:00 GMT -5
Ok, thanks to my new friend Schmitty, I have a good beginning to my WWII Paratrooper impression. I did some research and learned that there was a trooper in the 506th PIR with my last name, so I figured that was enough of a 'sign' that I would not feel like a "poseur" doing the airborne impression. Pvt. Secundino Alvarez, 101st Abn Div, 506th PIR 'H' Co. Killed 10 June 1944, St. Mere Eglise France. www.ww2-airborne.us/units/506/506_honor.htmlThanks again Schmitty! Capt. Zak, please let me know when the gear arrives from customs, I'll place my order!! Slainte! -G
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Post by gunfreak on Nov 6, 2005 6:01:41 GMT -5
nice pic's!! but i guess you cant play any games that simulate battles after June 10th, are you sure he wasn't family. maybe a 12th cousin to you're grandfather
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Post by Guinness on Nov 6, 2005 10:59:04 GMT -5
LoL, yeah, that could be a problem- I will probably not use the whole first name so it won't be such a direct relation to to him to honor his sacrifice. Maybe I should just use my name, knowing that there were Alvarez's in the division hmmm I don't know- it's a work in progress lol. And no- Secundino Alvarez was from California, my family is from Florida and came there in the late 1700's so other than all Alvarez's being related if you go back farrrrr enough, we aren't related I would also bet that he was the second born in his family. ;D One of my uncles was an MP in the ETO during the war, but really saw no front line action.
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Post by Gordak on Nov 8, 2005 20:30:49 GMT -5
Very cool pictures! Congrats on the Gems (m1a1 and m1911.
I think using Alvarez's name is a great Idea, Just be true to the materials you have studied, and Im sure the impression will work out great.
-Gordak
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Post by schmitty on Nov 9, 2005 10:12:13 GMT -5
Great pictures! Love the B&W one. Gordak deserves some credit for the idea of converting carbines to m1a1's. I also think the Alvarez name idea is a good one.
Schmitty
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Post by Guinness on Nov 12, 2005 14:28:59 GMT -5
Ok, I posted a review of the M1 at Arnies- www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviewpost/showproduct.php?product=217Of course props to my brothers here at WW2AA ! ;D Sorry Capt. Zak, I was trying to figure out a way to put in a plug for the supply depot, but it seemed out of place- that will be the next review when I get all my gear together! -G
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Post by 2nd bat on Nov 12, 2005 17:50:54 GMT -5
Beautiful work Guiness. Nice article, Terrific pictures, and a great plug for WW2 airsoft and the folks on the WW2 airsoft site!
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Post by Gordak on Nov 17, 2005 22:55:06 GMT -5
Excellent!!!!!!!! and thank god u took the bayonet lug off! -Gordak
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Post by Capt. Zak on Nov 17, 2005 23:11:04 GMT -5
No sweat Guinness. Don't plug the Supply Depot till your uniform shows up. ;D God I hate US Customs!
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Post by Capt. Zak on Nov 17, 2005 23:13:29 GMT -5
DAMN! Great article and fantastic pictures! I am going to do your "black tape" mod to my Carbine. Thanks for the tip!
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Post by Guinness on Nov 17, 2005 23:45:03 GMT -5
Well credit where credit is due and all- That is actually El Rey Schmitty's work- I just 'retro-engineered' it for the how-to article Thanks again Schmitt! -G
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Post by schmitty on Nov 18, 2005 21:48:05 GMT -5
Fantastic review!! I loved the story about your Dad and his misshap. I'm glad you are so pleased with our trade. The Hudson Garand has been riding in my Jeep for the last few weeks. It's a very tight fit in the gun rack on the windscreen. I still haven't decided about converting it or not. I think it's possible with a modified TM version 3 gearbox but I'm not sure how to accomodate the ammo.
Schmitty
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 19, 2005 10:24:23 GMT -5
I have been on the road for two weeks solid so haven't done anything relative to furthering my work on the Garaand AEG clips. I am however home for the next two weeks and expect to get them done.
There is no doubt in my mind that you will convert it eventually.
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Post by Guinness on Nov 30, 2005 23:15:20 GMT -5
ok, any woodworkers or refinishers out there? I bought some linseed oil and some tung oil tonight to use on the para-stock and the stock on my new Garand. I had read somewhere I can't remember where, that linseed was best for M1 furniture, and tung was best for Garands- Now before the eyes start rolling I realize that these Marushin stocks aren't made out of the same wood as the walnut and whatever stocks on the real guns.......yikes! more like stained balsa-wood However, knowing absolutely nothing about wood finishing, I figured I'd try both and see what I liked best. I used the M1 Carbine stock that my buddy Schmitty sent with the Para Carbine as my test, I remember reading that you are supposed to 'immerse' the stocks in the oil, so I figured that meant 'use a liberal amount'. I gave the upper handguard of the M1 stock the linseed treatment, and I applied the tung to one side of the rear of the buttstock. .......I can't see a whole lot of difference between 'em They both shine and stuff but other than that the only real difference I can tell is the tung oil smells better I mean I don't like see a 'satin' finish as opposed to a 'varnish-like' finish on either- So here is what I am thinking, tell me if this makes any sense- As you can see in the pics of the M1 Carbine, the wood has almost a redwood-cedar quality to it- almost like deck furniture- where the M1 Garand, pictured below, Is obviously darker, more chocolate. Unless there is something I don't understand about the two oils, I'm thinking I just go ahead with the original 'instructions' and apply the linseed to the Para stock, and put my tung on the Garand........ok, you had to see that one coming! ;D Anyway, you handy-woodworking-knowledgeable men out there, hook me up- where am I going wrong?? -G
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Post by 2nd bat on Dec 1, 2005 1:05:21 GMT -5
What effect are you hoping to produce?
My guess (I'm fairly certain) is both the Marushin Carbine and Garand are PINE. On real steel American Walnut was most commonly used. They have finishes currently that are very close to the shades you'd typically see on the two guns in the period as issued to the military. Garand was usually dark like your replica and the carbine was often lighter like your replica carbine. Sometimes the carbine was darker as well but keep in mind there were about 5 different companies making them (inluding singer sewing machine company!)
Without stripping off the clear coat and stain on the gun currently, your oils are simply going to be another coat on an existing finish and wouldn't significantly change the shade and appearance of the gun stocks. (won't penetrate the clearcoat)
Unless you're really unhappy with the finish now (I'm confused cause they both look great (I think) I'm not sure why you're messing with it.
My only complaint on the Marushin Garand is it looks too pristine for a battle weapon but I don't want to mess with mine unless I decide for sure I'm going to keep it. My Carbine looks sufficiently battle worn as I've had it 6 years and have skirmished with it alot! (it's a 6mm)
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Post by Guinness on Dec 1, 2005 2:04:47 GMT -5
I hear ya, good advice! The only thing maybe I wasn't clear about is the Carbine is in the repro M1A1 para stock made, I'm pretty sure, by Beretta (believe it or not : now that doesn't mean that it's not pine, it may well be, but it sure has a reddish, cedar cast to it although no cedar smell, which made me think that it is probably redwood like they make deck funiture out of. But the other thing, at least with the para furniture, is there is no existing finish on it- it is bare, dry wood- no clear coat (Schmitty can back me up on this) so my thinking is that I need to get something in the grain to protect it, or else the dry climate and sand and quartz-y soil of Colorado is really gonna dry it out even more- remember, we are a "high desert" here, not the lush green moist climate you guys enjoy, lol! Here is the 'inside' of the para stock, you can see there is no difference in colors or finish, saying to me, that there is no stain or coating- As for the Garand, the one I traded to Schmitty I know had more os a shiny, varnish effect to the wood, but many of the ones I have used and seen were more like this- as compaired to mine, which really has a negligable 'sheen' to it and is certainly darker- But I definately take your advice and experience to heart, I'm just trying to make these more 'realistic' than they come 'stock' (get it? that's a 'stock' joke ;D ;D) anyway, thanks!! Chris
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Post by 2nd Bat on Dec 1, 2005 17:23:52 GMT -5
Chris,
As I look closely at your para stock it certainly should get a finish applied. I'd go with a darker Walnut finish and stick with a dull sheen coating rather then a high gloss. This was often done post war to give the guns a prettier look for sportsmen. Obviously in combat, shiney is not good!
Birchwood Casey has an excellent and fairly inexpensive kit for finishing guns. It includes Stain, Tru Oil and a Wood Conditioner. (There are a variety of shades but I'd go with their Walnut) It's water based so not very messy. Sand as needed and then you rub it on with a clean soft rag. If it's darker then you want delute it with a wet rag. Leave it overnight and decide then if you want another coat. Leave it overnight and then use their tru oil gun stock finish (included in the kit) let it set for a couple hours and then sand lightly with OO steel wool (also included in the kit) Repeat until you have the finish you like and then I cover it in shoe polish or gun wax to make it look a little vintage and also to protect it. There is a stock sheen conditioner in the kit but I think it makes the gun too pretty.
I've done a couple guns with the kit but there's plenty enough left over to do 5 more. If you want I'll send you the residuals in the bottles and all the stuff with it. It has a shelf life and will probably just go bad before I'd have a chance to use it anyway.
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Post by 2nd Bat on Dec 1, 2005 17:24:44 GMT -5
Chris,
As I look closely at your para stock it certainly should get a finish applied. I'd go with a darker Walnut finish and stick with a dull sheen coating rather then a high gloss. This was often done post war to give the guns a prettier look for sportsmen. Obviously in combat, shiney is not good!
Birchwood Casey has an excellent and fairly inexpensive kit for finishing guns. It includes Stain, Tru Oil and a Wood Conditioner. (There are a variety of shades but I'd go with their Walnut) It's water based so not very messy. Sand as needed and then you rub it on with a clean soft rag. If it's darker then you want delute it with a wet rag. Leave it overnight and decide then if you want another coat. Leave it overnight and then use their tru oil gun stock finish (included in the kit) let it set for a couple hours and then sand lightly with OO steel wool (also included in the kit) Repeat until you have the finish you like and then I cover it in shoe polish or gun wax to make it look a little vintage and also to protect it. There is a stock sheen conditioner in the kit but I think it makes the gun too pretty.
I've done a couple guns with the kit but there's plenty enough left over to do 5 more. If you want I'll send you the residuals in the bottles and all the stuff with it. It has a shelf life and will probably just go bad before I'd have a chance to use it anyway.
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Post by Guinness on Dec 2, 2005 19:19:10 GMT -5
Ok- M1A1 Carbine 'tweak' #1Right then, I applied linseed oil to the Para stock to soak into that thirsty wood- it ever so slightly darkened it. Next, I applied the "Model Master" Gunmetal (Buffing Metalizer) paint to the gun itself. Here are the results- Before: After: Before: After: Barrel Before- Barrel After: It's probably a subtle change, but she now has more of a 'parkerized' tone than the modern black, which makes me smile. Thanks to my friend Capt. John "2ndBat" Robison for the tips! -G
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Post by Guinness on Dec 3, 2005 0:37:28 GMT -5
John, I would be happpy to pay you for the rest of the finishing kit- the more I look at the Garand, the more I want it to be honey walnut or something other than 'dark brown' I would send you a PM, but I think you are a 'guest' and I would send you an email but it keeps bouncing back Let me know where you want me to send the $ Chris
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Post by schmitty on Dec 3, 2005 10:55:27 GMT -5
Nice. I like the new "parkerized tone" I'll have to give that a try myself, Good tip. I Think Guiness is correct about the para stocks being made by Berreta. I do recall that when I bought the one guiness now has it had a "Made in Italy" sticker on it.
Schmitty
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Post by schmitty on Dec 3, 2005 11:14:14 GMT -5
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Post by Guinness on Dec 3, 2005 12:36:06 GMT -5
yeah.....
I guess I have a problem with that- I have seen way to many articles and information that the bayonet lug didn't appear til 'late war' so I always took that to mean sometime in '45 when it was too late to be used.
I'm betting that the gun pictured is all correct and just had a barrel replacement-
-G
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Post by 2nd bat on Dec 3, 2005 14:44:43 GMT -5
Guinness,
I'll e-mail you directly. Just pay me for shipping give me your address and the kit is yours. Let's make it $5.00. Enjoy.
Glad it all came out. I think it looks great. Nice job. I might be buying a 8mm carbine that I'll switch over. It has a broken slide (whatever that means but it's cheap) It supposedly still shoots okay.
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Post by Guinness on Dec 3, 2005 20:18:37 GMT -5
Done- I was looking for the part number for ya on that slide, but I can't find where I put the instructions Schmitty sent me Will keep looking- -G
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Post by 2nd Bat on Dec 3, 2005 23:11:45 GMT -5
Late war is a pretty vague term. I always took it to be mid 1944 to wars end. Normandy on. I say that as a lot of new gear was created, introduced and intended for the invasion but often didn't get to the troops until after they were on the continent. The OD M-1943 jacket rare at Normandy but quite common by Holland. OD web gear repalcing the Khaki etc. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see the bayonet lug on the carbine by the Holland and Rhine jumps so that example is probably correct. Incidently doesn't the color look right for your mettalizer paint? The 30 round magazine however was for all intents and purposes non existent in WW2 in the ETO.
Sadly many of these "innovations" didn't get to the front line troops. Shoe packs in Bastogne the improved folding shovel etc. The REMFs grabbed much of it for themselves.
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Post by Guinness on Dec 4, 2005 0:02:27 GMT -5
John, I hear ya, but by that definition then D-Day would be 'late' war, and we know that the M1A1 was originally designed for you guys that like to throw yourselves out of perfectly good airplanes and all the articles and photos I have seen, show the M1A1 with no bayo log- How about this 'compromise' I have seen some pictures of M1A1's in the Pacific theater- I would imagine that with the expectation of jungle and more close quarters fighting, that the bayonets would have been more prevalent there, although I still have the image of U.S. Marines with their wood stock M1's with the ammo pouches on the stocks- can't remember seeing bayo-lugs, But I'm sure they were there. -G
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YankeeDiv26
Staff Sgt.
Frustrated Mac Owner
BDM<33
Posts: 2,462
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Post by YankeeDiv26 on Feb 3, 2006 15:38:04 GMT -5
where can you get the para conversion kit and how much is it. You probably mentioned it somewhere above but this is a large message board and i got tired of reading.
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Post by Guinness on Feb 3, 2006 16:40:30 GMT -5
Screamer- Actually, my M1A1 is a "Schmitty's Custom Werks" product So I'm not sure where he procured the repro stock- I have seen them for $150 to $200 on eBay however. -G
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Post by tractor3rdid on Feb 3, 2006 18:24:04 GMT -5
sportsman guide sells the stock also but it is for real weapon
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