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Post by jettalewis on Sept 1, 2011 21:01:54 GMT -5
I know there are many who have done the M1 Garand conversion using an original M1 stock. I have read on several threads that these wood stocks are subject to breakage, but I don't think anyone has specifed the areas that break/crack. Do they break in the hand grip area or along side the magazine area or both?
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Post by tinydata on Sept 1, 2011 21:23:53 GMT -5
hand grip area, where the motor will sit
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Post by aj czarkowski on Sept 1, 2011 21:30:48 GMT -5
Both, the hand grip area because it is paper thin. The magazine area cracked also on mine
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Post by tinydata on Sept 1, 2011 21:32:56 GMT -5
really? I thought that area was beefy enough but I guess not
Remember, if you get a walnut stock, you MUST treat it properly- that means periodically treating it with linseed oil
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Post by aj czarkowski on Sept 1, 2011 21:37:34 GMT -5
It might just be mine since I bought it used on ebay and the last owner abused it. I believe he shot a nuke or two at it because it was a mess when I got it. The pictures of it were fake, and when I emailed him 3 or 4 times he never answered. I fixed nearly every problem and it is my best weapon now anyway
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Post by jettalewis on Sept 2, 2011 12:03:32 GMT -5
Ok fellas. Thanks for the reply and heads up to the problem area. I have not started cutting on my stock yet and after reading this I am going to attempt a Garand with minimal cutting in the handgrip area. Nothing concrete, but I'm going to attempt something that hasn't been done yet. If it works I will show what I did. If it doesn't I will show that muck up too.
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Post by tinydata on Sept 2, 2011 12:53:45 GMT -5
I like innovation- so hurry up and show us! haha
Somewhere I read that somebody tried a different approach of removing/modifying the M14 motor cage so that the grip area wouldn't need so much modification
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Post by jettalewis on Sept 2, 2011 19:35:05 GMT -5
Well darn it. Nuttin new in this world
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 5, 2011 20:56:48 GMT -5
It is doable but an extremely challenging project requiring lots and lots of time and precise cutting. It also will result in a paper thin side wall in the neck area of the stock. The end result can be very attractive but the time required and failure rate is such that I really really don't recommend the project.
The butt stock area that houses the battery is fairly simple as the tool channel gives you a nice start. The mag well area will also have to be significantly tweaked. The stock neck is the tough part.
The best approach I have found is to dremel off the cap of the stock neck with the idea of gluing it back in once your neck is hollowed out. Hollowing the neck out intact is way too difficult and creates more work and a less satisfying end result. Remove the cap and then once the neck area is exposed use your dremel to sand out the area where the motor will rest. The trigger assembly area will also require some precision dremel work . To facilitate the motor the cap you removed will also have to be sanded down to a thin skin. Take care by taping over the cut away stock portion so the outer surface remains intact and unblemished. Once done, wood glue does a tremendous job of reattaching the cap you removed and holds quite well. My plan was to reinforce the inner surface with fiberglass but on most Garand stocks there simply isn't enough room. (Some stocks are thicker through this area than others.) Unfortunately it is the post war stocks that are thicker.
This is not a project for the weak of heart or those unwilling to dedicate a tremendous amount of effort and time.
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Post by jettalewis on Sept 6, 2011 12:33:51 GMT -5
2nd Bat, I have read you and others detailing how thin the wood must be, but did not have specific locations before. Since looking further into this I believe your way would be the best way to get precise cuts and component location. I may go this route but want to gather more parts as I study on it. I was fortunate and located a source of original barrels (shot out) and am working on getting other, real steel, parts before I start. Thanks for the reply.
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