ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Jul 31, 2012 13:05:54 GMT -5
Okay guy, I'm planning on building a 1903A4 Springfield Sniper Rifle. I have a few base guns in mind, ( the most practical being the BAR-10 ) but I need your opinion. Also anyone know where I can find a Springfield scope? Really hoping for a repro under $50. One last thing, will I have to replace the barrel to make it longer because I'm going to also rifle it. Would really appreciate help here, - Scott
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Post by tinydata on Jul 31, 2012 14:40:21 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 22, 2012 10:41:40 GMT -5
These links show three different custom build approaches representing dozens of finished conversions. If after following these tutorials you fell you need additional guidance before taking the project on find another hobby.
I Got so much inspiration from these posted efforts and hope others do as well. There are some gas bolt actions coming out currently but based on early reports the are issues with their skirmishability, durability and practicality. The marriage between a VSR type springer and an actual rifle seems still to be the best bet for a WW 2 bolt action rifle.
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Post by aj czarkowski on Sept 22, 2012 12:32:15 GMT -5
If you still plan on building this and run into a problem that isn't explained in the guides, you can message me for help. I've built a Kar98k, but you basically do the same thing for both rifles. (and the m1903 was copied off the kar98 in the first place)
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Sept 22, 2012 16:29:22 GMT -5
Well I've been procrastinating for a while and have finally decided to make a thread showing a newbie attempting his first build. I think it might be very entertaining for some of the more experienced builders. I''m really just going to experiment with this and I won't be following any guides so wish me luck and god I hope I can do a good build.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 23, 2012 19:58:13 GMT -5
Good luck. Rifled barrel for a round ball with hop up? Hmmmmmm sounds dubious at best.
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Sept 24, 2012 9:03:45 GMT -5
If you still plan on building this and run into a problem that isn't explained in the guides, you can message me for help. I've built a Kar98k, but you basically do the same thing for both rifles. (and the m1903 was copied off the kar98 in the first place) Funny thing about that, I heard that during ww1 we were paying Germany for the right to use the mauser action. I don't know if it's true but I wouldn't necessarily doubt it.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Sept 24, 2012 15:33:03 GMT -5
Yes, sadly we were. Why we didn't pay the british for "their" bolt action design I have no idea.
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Post by aj czarkowski on Sept 24, 2012 16:13:38 GMT -5
Yes, we did have to pay the Germans during WWI for every springfield we made. But later into the war after we modified the rifle so much, it was different enough so that we no longer had to pay Mauser. Funny this is that after looking at both rifles, they really didn't look too much alike (the bolt action) in the first place.
I guess we didn't have to pay the english for their bolt action design because we were their allies, and they'd rather have us help them instead of sueing us like the germans did
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Nov 29, 2012 15:48:03 GMT -5
I'm still working on finding a stock for this, you know of any place that I could get one for cheapish?
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Post by warbirdguy1 on Nov 29, 2012 15:53:00 GMT -5
1903 stuff is VERY expensive, unfortunately one of the most expensive ones.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Nov 29, 2012 16:00:32 GMT -5
Well I have this Bar-10 sitting around and I need a WWII gun...
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 29, 2012 16:36:04 GMT -5
The least expensive approach is to modify the existing stock and buy the forearm alone along with the a4 handguard and needed hardware. Follow the HAIREY APPLE instructions that took this route and you will save much time, trouble and expense while increasing the likelihood of an effective and functional rifle. Even with this route, by the time you buy even those partial stock parts, when you add the stock bands, cut off switch, sights and safety bits, resin and stains it all adds up and will be a relatively expensive build.
Good luck and please tell us WHAT YOU'VE DONE, not what you intend to do.
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Nov 29, 2012 18:09:38 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Nov 29, 2012 20:22:26 GMT -5
Budget at least $250.00 and probably closer to $300.00 in materials cost. The longer A3 / A4 handguard requires considerable and very precise work to modify it sufficiently to fit. It will be veneer thin in places. For strength i permanently affix it to the bar 10 hardware. An airgun 3 power scope will closely approximate the correct Weaver scope. With the A4 you wont need to buy a rear or front site which will more than offset the cost of the scope and scope hardware. In addition with the A 4 the late war C stock was commonly used and this will greatly reduce the amount of work youll need to do on the VSR stock.
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Nov 29, 2012 22:19:13 GMT -5
Is a scope mandatory though? I wasn't thinking about fitting the hand guard over the receiver. Have you tried cutting the top part of the receiver tube off allowing more room for the handguard to fit?
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 6, 2013 20:20:27 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 6, 2013 22:52:22 GMT -5
Great first step. Now the work begins. Be sure to mask off those areas on the stock around those places you will be using power tools to remove inner wood on the stock to accomodate the bar 10 guts or the vsr magazine. Otherwise slips nd gouges are inevitable. It also serves as a nice guide for your work.
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 7, 2013 15:40:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the the tips 2nd Bat. It do I need to keep the black barrel on there or can I just take that off all together?
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 7, 2013 20:59:33 GMT -5
Well, I started sanding today. I knew there was going to be a lot, but not that much! The trigger box is slowly starting to fall into place. Hopefully there will be a snow day tomorrow and I can really work on that more. I'll probably get the box in tonight.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 8, 2013 0:58:55 GMT -5
The additional parts you need will depend on the level of authenticity you want but will start adding up quickly. The trigger and magazine assembly, the front and rear stock band, the butt plate, sling hardware,the front and rear sites (unless you're doing an A4 in which case you need a scope mount and scope) the reciever group enhancement parts like the cut off switch, safety, bolt etc.
If you do this right, youll be in it around $300.00 in parts alone. Good luck it's an extremely worthwhile project and you will enjoy it.
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ScottCollins
Private 1st Class
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Posts: 548
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 8, 2013 15:19:27 GMT -5
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Post by aj czarkowski on Feb 8, 2013 15:37:45 GMT -5
Wow! that was fast
I see you still have the outer barrel from the bar10, with my project I cut the outer barrel just enough so it still covered up the hop-up. This way it won't be exposed and you will only see the bolt.
By the way, I tried to post a picture of how it looked on my Springfield, but I guess we can't post pictures anymore as attachments
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 8, 2013 15:51:21 GMT -5
XD I left out the hop up because I'm waiting for the hand guard to come.
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Post by aj czarkowski on Feb 8, 2013 16:03:55 GMT -5
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ScottCollins
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Post by ScottCollins on Feb 8, 2013 18:57:54 GMT -5
I found out UPS delivers on Saturday!!
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