TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 15, 2007 7:28:35 GMT -5
Actually there is somthign there that I might decide to get, turns out they have the pistol grip type handles/backplate part for only $24 thats deffinatly in the pricerange of this project.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 14, 2007 22:34:59 GMT -5
Yeah I shure could use dimensions, since I doubt Ill be buying an M-14 here anytime soon, Ill proabably have the body built as a prop then add the internals, but lets try and get these done by the event so we atleast can have one 30cal to use to counter the Germans Mgs.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 14, 2007 22:23:48 GMT -5
Aluminum sheets was definatly an option from the start but the thing is that not everyone has the tools required to make a 30cal out of sheet aluminum, the material Im using is mainly for reproductions sake, everyone has an exacto knife, hammer, files, saw, wood glue ect... thus it will be easy to make, although I dont see why someone that can work with metal couldnt use the instructions to make a metal verision either, I guese it will be up to the builder to decide what material they want to use, I choose wood though.
Also M-14 shure lets make it a contest, that would be fun.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 14, 2007 16:56:10 GMT -5
Great, the idea is to not only include detailed instructions but also some diagrams and photos of the 30cal.
Plus I will also be including full sized patterns to be used to trace on the shapes of the sides, top, bottom, front and back plates to the material you choose to make your 30cal body out of.
Now the plans may not be available until mid to late April because I first need to finish the 30 Im building now as the prototype.
Concerning the prototype 30cal, I have been experimanting with making simple boxes out of styreen, and then wood. I have found that in order to make shure the styreen outer panels for the 30cal body are tough enough to withstand field use I was forced to build a full wooden frame to attach the panles too, this proved to be time consuming and I was still unsure as to its long term durablility mainly becuase of all the joints that have to be made then connected and the small contact surface between the joints.
So I then decided to use wood, simply becuase of the massive amount of contact surface between the joints that I can acheave with solid wood sides. I then experimented with a "secret" sanding and sealing process that is very resistant to damage and when finished and painted gun metal/black looks just like metal. (Ill tell you all what it is when the project is finished)
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 14, 2007 14:31:23 GMT -5
Alright so I have been looking at the different ways of constructing an M1919 body and I have decided that once I have compleated the design that I would make available instrcutions on how to make thses.
They would also include patterns to use to make the major components of the body.
Would anyone be intersted in this.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 7, 2007 23:27:03 GMT -5
My god that is amazing! Being a model builder that works for Revell and understanding the design and development process involved with making kits for him to make that it is outstanding! I wonder if he can make airsoft guns too? lol
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 6, 2007 16:51:01 GMT -5
Those are exactly what I need thanks so much.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 5, 2007 17:12:56 GMT -5
Hmmmm one thing I havent though about yet is if I will decide to add weight to the gun, as it will be it will be quite light, I expect it to weight less than or equal to the Tokyo Marui Thompson.
Would you be able to provide me with some measurements, length width and highth of the body, I need to basic overall dimensions of the body and from there I can actually start to cut out the side plates, top, top cover, rear and front plates. I have some really good photos to work from also so replicating all the details on the gun will be very easy I only need some dimensions.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 4, 2007 22:22:56 GMT -5
I suspect the the styreen will be strong eough but as a precoution the entire interior and conecting points between the bodies front, back, top, bottom, and side plates will be reenforced, especially where the barrel and trigger handle will connect.
The entire body will be coated with an industrail primar (silver colored) that the paint will stick very well and if it rubs off it will expose the silver underneath giving it a worn look.
I am currently working on getting diagrams of the body from the M1919 forums and when I get all the info needed from them Ill forward it to if you would like (ease research a bit)
We could make it a contest of sorts who can make the cheapest most authentic M1919A4 .30Cal MG. Im not too shure exactly how much time I can realistically devote to the projcet so we dont need to put a finish date on it, but if I want to have it ready by our event here then we shoudl have them finished by April (ish)
Im not too shure if I can get my hands on internals in time so well make it an exterior contest assuming that if we both had internals instaled they would work.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 4, 2007 21:20:28 GMT -5
While I was searching though my basment looking for some of that pink styrofoam sheet, I found a huge sheet of thick styreen from a very old model project (years old infact) I had forgotten all about, infact there is enough sheet to probably make two full 30cal bodies out of.
Now that I have the proper material required I still have to find the dimensions and drawings of the top, sides, front and back. I figure that if I can find those I can have the empty shell of a 30cal MG built in about two weeks with most of the details (building the sight will be hard so Ill look for a reall steel part) and painted in three Then I can plop and AEG motor inside.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 2, 2007 12:28:51 GMT -5
Hmmm $300-400 that really is quite cheap, but still more than I want to spend ( I know call me cheap)
Also thanks for steering me to the forums Ill ask someone there if I can get dimensions, and drawings from the Top, Sides, Bottom, Front and Rear.
After I have the dimensions I can enlarge the drawings and use them as a pattern to make the major components of the gun like the body and barrel, then use the drawings to also help me fabricate some of the details on the gun too.
I will ofcourse have to source reall steel parts like the bolt handle, the trigger handle, and the sights.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 2, 2007 1:12:43 GMT -5
Im leaning twords the wooden body idea also, the key will be to get a metal look to the wood, so it will have to be sanded smooth vanished then painted and sealed.
In looking at the drawings too, I wont have a top that opens up to load the belt into, at least for the first version. The main aim of this project is to simply produce a 30cal that works, after I have accomplished that I will proceed to add the finer operating details.
I do however need dimensions and side veiw drawings of the major components or else this project will go nowhere fast. Infact instead of waiting to buy an M-14 I can start construction on the 30cal now (providing I can be steared to drawings and stuff) and simply add the internals latter ( of course building the gun making shure I can instal the internals into the gun)
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 1, 2007 16:26:33 GMT -5
Yeah I was going to ask Schmitty about his 30cal specifically how much the body cost, I would liek to use as many reall stell parts as possible but cost production may hammper this.
What I may end up doing is building the body and barrel then adding the rest of reall steel parts to it since the body and barrel probably are the biggest cost.
But yeah like M-14riflemen said I want to use the simpilist configuration possible for the internals, Schmitties was very nicely done but too complicated for me, simple M-14 internals centered inside the gun with either a modifyed M-14 highcap mag built to fit up inside the body or some kind of reservour system (Im leaning to the mag idea though)
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 1, 2007 11:39:52 GMT -5
The prospect of a buildable 30cal has really sparked my interest, I have started to look for sources for parts and other items. I would like to start a thread aimed at assembling ideas for building an affordable 30cal. I have come to the conclusion that the M-14 internals will be best suited for a 30cal. The evrsion I intend to make will not be as complicated as Schmitties 30. cal but will get the job done. The battery and ammo will be stored in the MG but to make thing interesting I just my introduce a circut that must be compleated by adding an ammo belt with prongs that complete the circut for the battery to power the AEG box. I have also found this really great exploded view of the 30cal and a parts loist and there respective prices. www.sarcoinc.com/1919a4.htmlTommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 26, 2007 14:55:06 GMT -5
Absolutly fantastic, this is a great resource to have and clears up alot of the rumors surrounding each makers version of the M-14, now I know what M-14 Ill be buying for my 30cal project.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 21, 2007 23:15:33 GMT -5
Nerf balls wont work because you cant aim this thing at a person with a solid projectile (it should not be aimed at a person for that matter just does not seem safe), I would say a small bag of flower, shure people will get covered in flower but it brushes off. Or something that would, after making cotact with the ground, produce a simulated shrapnal effect, the projectile also has to be made so that if it comes into contact with a person accedentally there wont be any harm.
After jumping the hurdle with actually building the cannon, which it seems you have, the next problem does lie in creating a viable projectile to work in the same fashion as a reall shell would have.
Good luck with that, I can only come up with the flower bag idea.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 18, 2007 14:28:50 GMT -5
Thats awsome I would love to do that to my M1928A1, How would it work for an M1928A1 though? and could it even be done to an M1928A1?
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 13, 2007 21:33:31 GMT -5
This is a great rsource you have provided, and answered some questions as to what finish or finishes would be correct to see on our guns.
I have always wondered what a new M1928 would have been colored as compared to the M1A1 (or PTO weary guns), I know that after tons of use the M1928 has been known to fade to an almost silver finish from the original parkarised/blued Steel color. Have you even run a cross info on the Parkarisation/Blueing of the Thomspons?
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 14, 2007 23:31:59 GMT -5
Do ya think you could modify Reall Steel shells to hold the ammo, if so than you wouldnt have to worry about losing the shells, just go and buy a new box of shell casings (some $ is still invloved but not as much as getting the Marushin shells)
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Feb 6, 2007 12:51:30 GMT -5
I wouldnt, it looks like about a $20 service to me at most, plus it looks like it incorporates the same basic fix as the way Schmitty came up with.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Jan 30, 2007 16:15:14 GMT -5
Thats a bit of a problem, the little rubber nub is what is adjusted to put back spin on the projectile so it gets greater range, its kinda important.
I dont know if this will mess the gun up or not but you could try fireing it without the hop up and see how far it shoots, it may just be powerfull enough to through just FPS force its way down range at an acceptable distance until you can get a new hop up.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Mar 15, 2007 14:59:18 GMT -5
How come you had to open the gearbox?
Tommygunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Jan 10, 2007 23:49:18 GMT -5
Dang if only this was done a few Weeks ago I could have saved Carl (my M1A1) But my soon to be M1928 is still pritty good.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
M1928A1
Nov 23, 2006 22:03:44 GMT -5
Post by TommyGunner on Nov 23, 2006 22:03:44 GMT -5
Hmmmmm, cool, almost like epoxy.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
M1928A1
Nov 23, 2006 21:32:10 GMT -5
Post by TommyGunner on Nov 23, 2006 21:32:10 GMT -5
Sorry if I sound dumb here but what is JB Weld? is it some kind of glue?
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
M1928A1
Oct 12, 2006 14:50:25 GMT -5
Post by TommyGunner on Oct 12, 2006 14:50:25 GMT -5
I have heard that you can stick a 190 rnd mag in the springer drum mag with some modification and make it fit into the M1928 reciver.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Nov 2, 2006 11:32:50 GMT -5
When you take a picture during an event and you see the orange tip it just totally takes away from the visuall impact. And making it look like a reall gun is kinda why we take them off, but for legal reasons you are right they should stay on.
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Aug 1, 2006 13:55:17 GMT -5
Im gona have to go with a gas system too, the springer idea sounds nice and realy would be simple especially if you just plan to use it for sniping, but if your lugging that thing around all day long you better have the option of just blasting the hell out of someone , plus since its kinda ungangly it would be benificial to have a full auto option if you get in a bind. TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Jun 28, 2006 14:47:32 GMT -5
Awsome I kinda thought it would be as simple as that, but how hard is it to take it apart and put it back togethter again, (never done it before)?
TommyGunner
|
|
TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
|
Post by TommyGunner on Jun 28, 2006 13:13:38 GMT -5
Okay well its not sick really it just has a wobbly part............. .............I bet you thought I was going to say it was the barrel hehe ;D no but its not the Barrel thank goodness. Its actually the cocking lever on the side, the handle to it is wobbling lose, how do I go about fixing it, its no a big problem but more anoying than anthing else. TommyGunner
|
|