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Post by ssgjoe on Feb 17, 2014 1:20:49 GMT -5
Alright guys, I am planning on building a custom Kar98, and was hoping you guys could help me. Keep in mind I am on a budget, so I don't plan in buying a DBOYs kar98 and use Bar10 internals. Anyway, I plan on carving the stock out of a block of wood. I got a dremel, so that should help a little. My friend is selling me the internals to the UTG Master Sniper for $20. But the bolt on the UTG looks terribly unrealistic. I assume you could switch out the bolt for a Kar98 one, or switch out the bolt handle and customize the bolt, but I don't know how. This'll be my first gun, so it might not be that great. Please help me through this. Thanks guys! Cheers!
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Post by insterburger on Feb 17, 2014 8:15:08 GMT -5
For the amount of time and effort you will put into carving a stock with a Dremel, I doubt you will get results that will justify your commitment. And even if you have the exceptional skill and patience to get something approximate carved, you will still have none of the stock hardware (barrel bands, spring, lug, takedown disc) needed to make a good looking 98k. I hate to say it, but getting a boneyard DBoys 98k is still probably your best bet-- there's a reason everyone is doing them that way.
I think Airsoft Megastore has both the real and fake wood 98k in stock in their boneyard right now. If you're on a budget, go with the polymer stocked version-- they're really not so bad and can be had for $60 or so shipped. That will give you an accurately detailed and good looking stock, all the hardware, and the bolt pieces you will need to make a realistic looking 98k bolt. I don't think there's a cheaper way to do it, at least not one that will work.
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Post by ssgjoe on Feb 17, 2014 10:16:05 GMT -5
Actually, I was thinking about it, and I'm gonna wait a little more so I get more funds. Then I might get a real steel stock, or the wooden DBoys one. But my main worry is the bolt. What's the best way going around replacing the bolt? I might still use the UTG internals.
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Post by insterburger on Feb 17, 2014 10:29:47 GMT -5
Bolts won't be interchangeable, so your challenge will be to make the UTG bolt look like a Mauser. Like the Bar10 conversions, you'll have to remove the bolt handle and put on the one from the DBoys-- that will probably be a similar porcess to standard Bar10 conversions. Likewise, the bolt shroud and safety from the DBoys will have to be fit on to the back of the bolt. I don't know how you'll go about that with the funky tail on the UTG bolt, perhaps some of that can be dremelled away, then dremel the insides of the DBoys parts to fit over it. Without being more familiar with the UTG, that's the best I can tell you.
Good luck with the conversion, hope it works out. Keep us posted!
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant 
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 17, 2014 12:13:57 GMT -5
I concure with Interburger. Unless you are very good with wood working and have a sample to go, on the odds of getting a happy result is slim. The hardware bits when acquired piecemeal are very very expensive . SGTTOM in his tutorial details how he adapted his DBoys hardware to a VSR type base rifle. Doing things on the cheap though often a neccessity seldom winds up as a god result although the boards have shown some real exceptions.
A boneyard DBoys Kar98 definitely sounds like the route to follow. If nothing else use the plastic stock as a template for shaping your wood stock and the hardware for your detail work. In two three years of labor, part time and assuming you maintain the enthusiasm you MIGHT end up with a finished rifle.
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Post by volkssturm on Feb 17, 2014 13:13:11 GMT -5
I second 2d Bat's comments. Individual parts get expensive. I've got about $140 in my VZ24, not counting the base gun, and I still need to get a floorplate. And enthusiasm. Dremeling out a wood stock gets really tedious and in my old age my attention span has shrunk (I blame the Internet  ) |
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Post by insterburger on Feb 17, 2014 13:22:06 GMT -5
In two three years of labor, part time and assuming you maintain the enthusiasm you MIGHT end up with a finished rifle. If Andy Dufresne can dig out of Shawshank with a rock hammer, a 98k stock can be carved with a dremel. But it might take just as long. |
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Post by ssgjoe on Feb 17, 2014 16:44:07 GMT -5
I'll use the plastic stock, then upgrade to wood later when I can. I don't know when I'll start the project, but I'm just trying to get an idea on what I should do. But I do plan on getting boneyard now since you guys suggested it. Should I then get a bar10 or vsr? I don't know if UTG is good idea after what you told me. Thanks guys!
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shiftysgarand
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Post by shiftysgarand on Feb 17, 2014 18:17:12 GMT -5
Bar10 and vsr are the same. The bar 10 is the clone, it shoots 130 fps higher and is fully compatible with vsr parts.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 20, 2014 18:56:42 GMT -5
There are several airsoft guns marketed as VSRs so it can get confusing. The original VSR 10 was by Marui and because it is a Japanese product it is by Japanese law restricted to a weaker spring and lower FPS then what typically skirmishers like to have with a bolt action rifle. It is also quite a bit more expensive then the assorted clones made in China and Taiwan. (JG, Cyma, TSD, ect.). The VSR however has an exhaustive list of upgrade parts. Of the clones the JG Bar 10 is the most exact copy and is the onky one fully capable of accepting all of the Marui VSR upgrade parts. It shoots much much harder out of the box then the Marui however the trigger seer tends to fail fairly quickly with the standard spring since its power exceeeds the tolerances. Hence an upgraded trigger box is an essential upgrade long term.
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Jerry-ADK
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Post by Jerry-ADK on Mar 19, 2014 23:10:27 GMT -5
There are several airsoft guns marketed as VSRs so it can get confusing. The original VSR 10 was by Marui and because it is a Japanese product it is by Japanese law restricted to a weaker spring and lower FPS then what typically skirmishers like to have with a bolt action rifle. It is also quite a bit more expensive then the assorted clones made in China and Taiwan. (JG, Cyma, TSD, ect.). The VSR however has an exhaustive list of upgrade parts. Of the clones the JG Bar 10 is the most exact copy and is the onky one fully capable of accepting all of the Marui VSR upgrade parts. It shoots much much harder out of the box then the Marui however the trigger seer tends to fail fairly quickly with the standard spring since its power exceeeds the tolerances. Hence an upgraded trigger box is an essential upgrade long term. I just received a BAR 10 in the mail to do this very conversion. The trigger broke on the first shot!!! I can't believe the poor quality of something I just paid $100 for! Spring is very weak as well. Should I mess around with trying to return it or just get the upgrade parts that I need anyway? |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 20, 2014 16:18:19 GMT -5
I have had some fail within 30 shots but never the first shot! yikes! You would be replacing it anyway so....As for the spring, how would one know it was weak prior to actual use? Not sure what to tell you there?
Airsoft can definitely be frustrating some times.
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Post by brownien on Mar 20, 2014 18:32:21 GMT -5
I believe on evike there is a generalized conversion chart for the spring's M number to an approx fps. It should pop up when you search for springs on their site
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shiftysgarand
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Post by shiftysgarand on Mar 20, 2014 18:40:43 GMT -5
Spring's M number is generally the meters per second it generates.
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Post by brownien on Mar 20, 2014 19:34:19 GMT -5
That makes sense! I knew there was some conversion figure, but didn't make the correlation between fps and mps.
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Post by aj czarkowski on Mar 20, 2014 19:47:13 GMT -5
I just received a BAR 10 in the mail to do this very conversion. The trigger broke on the first shot!!! I can't believe the poor quality of something I just paid $100 for! Spring is very weak as well. Should I mess around with trying to return it or just get the upgrade parts that I need anyway? Sorry to hear that, mine lasted probably somewhere around 100 shots. If the sear is the only problem with it, you can buy a steel one for about $45 on evike.com. Neither my M1903 or Kar98k have had any problems since. But the sear braking on the first shot sounds like there may also be something else wrong with it too, I'd check that out |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 23, 2014 22:20:35 GMT -5
The AGM MP001s I had all stripped their seers and started slam firing within 100 shots but the BAr 10s have been pretty random with some lasting a good long while while others broke quite quickly. Best to just start out with the upgraded trigger box and plan on the expense. Sgt Tom in his tutorial showed a cool way to impement the D Boys bolt handle into the marriage. I just cosmetically revamped the VSR one which works at a glance.
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