My custom G43 WIP.

[Dracul]

Hello, 

I decided to do something with my Kar98 and I saw the G43 mods going on and decided that I'll do my own. Except, I'll do this with mainly parts from the DBoy's Kar98 with the internals of M14. One thing I did like about the DB Kar98 is that the externals are pretty good and wanted to keep them. Though, since I live in an apartment, not a lot of metal cutting I want to do. So, I'm going to keep metal cutting to a bare minimum. Mainly where the M14 internals and Kar98 externals match up and probably the internal magazine well (won't be cutting up bayonet stub piece). 

Here is first pic so far:

Next up is to cut out the battery well and insides to fit the M14 internals. 

Hopefully more pics soon to come! 

[stuka]

That is a very interesting approach, looking forward to more pics

[Dracul]

Thank you,

Unfortunately, not much progress since last post, but I decided to take some pre-cut/comparison pics between the M14 internals and the Kar98 externals:

From up top: 


From side up: 


I wish I could make them more lined up, but I'm only one man, haha. Anyway, I'm fairly certain with enough gutting out the insides of the stock, I should be good to go. Outside of course cutting off parts or the whole "hood" that extends over the inner barrel there and probably more of the Kar98's mag well. 

My intent here is to not just build it, but make it so I can still dissemble it so I can upgrade the gun's FPS and be able to fix it if need be. 

[insterburger]

As Stuka said, this is intriguing. There appear to be quite a few challenges with this approach, but I guess figuring out how to overcome them is really the fun of it. Looks doable.

Best of luck, and keep us posted. This could be a really fun build to emulate.

[LϟϟAH1944]

One question: why convert a 98k to a g43, when you can make it into a near-perfect G41(M)?

[insterburger]

Jun 14, 2014 1:10:55 GMT -5 LϟϟAH1944 said:

One question: why convert a 98k to a g43, when you can make it into a near-perfect G41(M)?

A fair question. Don't want to speak for Dracul, but I can think of a few reasons someone might want to:

1) G43's were rare enough, but there were about 400,000 G43's fielded to only about 5,000 G41(M) rifles-- meaning about 80 G43's for every one G41(M). Maybe he wants a rifle that is more plausible to see in the field.

2) Perhaps the idea is to produce a G43, not find something to convert his 98k into. After all, he could even more easily convert his M14 into an M1 Garand, but apprently doesn't want a Garand either.

3) Maybe he wants a bigger challenge.

For me, #1 would be the most compelling reason. I would much rather do a build of something sort of rare than of something extremely rare-- not to say a G41 wouldn't be fun to have, though! And you are entirely correct that the 98k lends itself much better to emulating the G41(M) design, and has some profound challenges in converting to a G43. But I will be interested to see how closely it can be made to resemble one.

[Dracul]

Jun 14, 2014 1:10:55 GMT -5 LϟϟAH1944 said:

One question: why convert a 98k to a g43, when you can make it into a near-perfect G41(M)?

Good question, but insterburger pretty much hit the bullseye there, and on all of the accounts, too (even reasons I haven't thought of, haha). There is "rare" that people will know and there is "extremely rare" that only very little would know (like those on this forum). For example, the G43 has been in SOME games and movies, but the G41 hasn't really been.  

[LϟϟAH1944]

Ah alright. Looks good so far!

[ScottCollins]

I'm modifying the Dboys K98 into a springer right now and by the looks of it, with that gearbox, the stock will be VERY weak. As in like paper thin in some areas. I recommend getting some resin and beefing up the stock in those places

[Jerry-ADK]

I am going to try making a G41 walther version this winter for a project.  I am going to use some of the Dboys parts I have but the stock I may cut and shape out of birch or some other hardwood.  I was contemplating using the Dboys plastic stock but I would have to build it up in places with a lot of Bondo and resin to get the correct look.  I am planning on trying to mate a AGM mp40 gearbox with a m4 or m14 hop unit.  With the mp40 box the mag well will end up basically in the right spot on the underside of the fore stock.  And with the short M14 mags I think they will protrude out the bottom the correct distance.  But I will be excited and inspired to see how you're G43 comes out, good luck with it and keep posting pics as you go.

[insterburger]

The G41-- in either form-- was a rare bird, and from what I've read they were hated by front line troops and were mostly shunted off to 2nd-echelon units, so they rarely saw combat. Also, apparently inasmuch as they were issued, they were issued in quantity to individual units (which makes perfect sense). Thus, paradoxically, it would be more historically accurate to outfit a whole unit with these than to have a single guy with a seldom seen rifle.

So Jer, if that first build works out, how about making 5 or six more for HGNO members?

[Jerry-ADK]

Jun 14, 2014 17:32:58 GMT -5 insterburger said:

The G41-- in either form-- was a rare bird, and from what I've read they were hated by front line troops and were mostly shunted off to 2nd-echelon units, so they rarely saw combat. Also, apparently inasmuch as they were issued, they were issued in quantity to individual units (which makes perfect sense). Thus, paradoxically, it would be more historically accurate to outfit a whole unit with these than to have a single guy with a seldom seen rifle.

So Jer, if that first build works out, how about making 5 or six more for HGNO members?

Lol, ok but it may take a few eons...I have seen plenty of pics of Fallschirmjager troops with them.  But yes, not as common as a k98 of course.  It's more to do something that has yet to be done.  I still have not seen any examples of a real working G41 AEG custom build.  I did see a YouTube vid of a French dude who was trying, but it seemed to be spring not AEG.

[Dracul]

More progress on this, but unfortunately my Dremel kicked the bucket halfway through today. 


Next order of business was to cut the trigger/internal magazine frame's far tab. I do this to keep the Kar98's sight assembly on it. 


Then I had cut this portion of the M14's upper receiver. 


I cut off extra pieces from the M14 upper receiver. Just the clasps that hold the Bolt Release Lever and the one screw loop on the back right of it. 


Then I carved out parts from inside of the stock and married up the M14's Upper Receiver and the Kar98's Sight Assembly. 


They aren't entirely flushed just yet. All I was able to get done today. 

Unfortunately, since my Dremel broke I'm kinda stopped at gutting the stock for the battery well and the battery line channel. BUT, I'm going to attempt to go on gut out around the internal magazine well and the handle to drop in the gearbox and motor. Multitool hacksaws got me far in the past, haha. 

[2nd Bat]

this approach is fun and creative and like everyone else I am anxious to follow your progress.

I would have thought you'd want to discard the m14 receiver housing altogether and fabricate a g43 type housing. To do such things on other projects I have coated the M14 gear box with masking tape and applied lavish amounts of waxy mold release and then built up dyna paste glass resin paste and shaped as desired. Then once complete you have a removable part.

It will be interesting to see how you tackle the stock neck challenge.

[Dracul]

Thanks, I'm glad people are liking this!

I'm still kinda unsure on how I want to make the M14 receiver to look like the G43's. I know at least I will cut off the rear sight section (when I get a new Dremel, haha). Kinda on the back burner for now, more concerned on getting the gearbox and motor in stock. For the stock neck, I might have to just cut down into from the top to just lay the motor in there. But, I was going to keep the cut out pieces from the stock neck, and then fabricate a way to put them back in and have it easily removable for the eventual internal upgrades.

[insterburger]

I think that approach will just further weaken the wrist, which is already going to be relatively fragile from removing the internal bracing that will need to come out to fit the motor in there. I think you'd be much better off trying to get the internals to slip into the wrist from the front. As ScottCollins said, you should be beefing it up, not making it even less stable. Some resin filler or bedding compound in there will help it become much stronger than just the thin outer shell that will be in there as it stands.

Also, as 2ndBat said, you're probably better off abandoning the M14 externals entirely and building your own G43 receiver. They are just too dissimilar.

Great progress, keep it rolling!

[Dracul]

You know, that might just be possible... I'm going to try that, thanks!

[Dracul]

More progress! As Insterburger suggested, I'm trying to make it so the gearbox/motor just slides in stock neck. And I think its going to work! 

With enough gutting out of the stock, this is how the M14 parts currently sit. 


I should be able to slide it back more once I figure out how I'm going to remove a wall in the stock neck...without a drill or a dremel. 

Unfortunately the entirely of the project won't be able to be finished until I get some new tools. However, I will go as far as I can with what I have. 

[brownien]

If you have a soldering iron, you can use it to melt the plastic to cut it like "a hot knife through butter!"

[aj czarkowski]

Just out of curiosity are you using the plastic stock or the wood one? I think it might actually be easier if you have the plastic one especially if your dremel broke.

[shiftysgarand]

I'm pretty sure it's plastic, which does indeed make it easier to manipulate.

[Dracul]

Jun 17, 2014 11:45:47 GMT -5 brownien said:

If you have a soldering iron, you can use it to melt the plastic to cut it like "a hot knife through butter!"

Oh man, I wish, haha. 

Jun 17, 2014 11:52:49 GMT -5 aj czarkowski said:

Just out of curiosity are you using the plastic stock or the wood one? I think it might actually be easier if you have the plastic one especially if your dremel broke.

Shiftysgarand answered correctly there. Its plastic alright, and good plastic, too. I think this even had water transfer treatment to it. No matter where I cut or chop into, I'm always get more faux wood grain. 

[aj czarkowski]

Wow, sounds like the plastic stock looks more like wood than the real one lol. I did a kar98k conversion with the real wood stock, and the stain they used made it look like plastic. It actually looks orange =/

[Dracul]

Jun 17, 2014 13:36:07 GMT -5 aj czarkowski said:

Wow, sounds like the plastic stock looks more like wood than the real one lol. I did a kar98k conversion with the real wood stock, and the stain they used made it look like plastic. It actually looks orange =/

Yeah, DBoys made a lot of weird decision when building their Kar98's. Really strange ones, too (still mind boggled at the air re-stricter in the bolt and the two piece, proprietary inner barrel. I personally think it would have been decent if they fixed those problems, but off topic now, haha).  So, the orange tint on their wood stock is not surprising.... 

Unfortunately, with out a dremel, my progress was slowed down and now its to a halt since I need to cut up metal and cut holes pretty deep. 

This is how much I was able to slide in the stock. Still blocked by either the edge of the Ver 7 gearbox or the internal wall in the stock neck. 


I have two things I need to cut. That bar/beam like piece that runs up and down on the ride side. Part of the lower receiver, need to cut that off to fit the lower receiver into the stock. Second thing is that stubby "tail" at the lower edge of the Ver 7 gearbox's motor cage (below the screw of course). However, I won't try that unless for some reason I can't get past that wall in the stock neck.  


Luckily, I have a lot of time to work on this. My German load out needs a whole lot of improvement anyways.


On the side, I've been working on a M1903A4. Will post that in a separate thread though when I start getting results. 

[brownien]

That stubby tail that comes off the back of the motor cage is what adjusts the motor height. Cutting that off will disengage your motor and most likely strip the pinion gear.

[Dracul]

Thanks for the heads up, then I really have to take down that wall in the stock neck. That could have been disastrous!

[brownien]

Yea! If I were you, I would takevsome chalk or a dab of paint and just put a dab on the back of that nub you were gonna cut off, then insert it into the stock til it hits that wall. That will leave a mark, and once you know exactly were to start cutting, use a hot soldering iron to melt away at the wall until the motor cage fits into the stock. Just DONT breathe the fumes! You can also do this by heating up a knife or a metal rod with a non metal handle with a torch or an open flame, should work the same way, but the soldering gun will work the fastest

[ssgjoe]

From what I heard breathing burning plastic fumes is only as dangerous as burning fumes from a gasoline fire. Still best not to breath it though lol


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[Dracul]

Jul 1, 2014 16:31:36 GMT -5 brownien said:

Yea! If I were you, I would takevsome chalk or a dab of paint and just put a dab on the back of that nub you were gonna cut off, then insert it into the stock til it hits that wall. That will leave a mark, and once you know exactly were to start cutting, use a hot soldering iron to melt away at the wall until the motor cage fits into the stock. Just DONT breathe the fumes! You can also do this by heating up a knife or a metal rod with a non metal handle with a torch or an open flame, should work the same way, but the soldering gun will work the fastest

Heating up a rod or knife to melt away at the inner walls... I think that is going to work! Thanks so much for the idea! I shall try this out! 

[stuka]

It should be worth noting that shoot and scoot is coming out with a g43 upper receiver but i believe it is only meant for a m14

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