Homemade Drillich and HBT Loaner Tunic projects

[Dracul]

Hello,

I wanted to make a completely new thread here, since this thread will the actual "build thread" where I post my progresses and completions. I did learn a whole from the HBT Dilemma thread, though.

Off I began the project...  Slowly.... and now since the AC in my apartments have been turned on, I have the motivation to work on stuff in general. Like I stated in the other thread, I am working on my making Drillich tunics first, and then build up to making full featured HBT tunics.

Before I go on any further, like my bread bags, keep in mind that these are meant for loaner purposes, not museum pieces. There will be things wrong with the final products and corners that will definitely be cut. These should still look rather good when finished, and probably more than enough for loaner purposes, just will not be "Stitch Nazi" level. 

First thing I needed to do was draft a basic pattern, both the Drillich and HBT tunics have the same base pattern, or at least extremely similar. So, I only need to make one, good base pattern. A lot of the features on the HBT tunics, are just add-ons to the Drillich. I'm beginning this venture by making Drillich tunics first, and by the completion of the first few, I should have a good pattern that's revised through the course of development. The more I make, the more kinks I get out, and the better the tunics will be.

The tunic I took apart to make the pattern was a post war East German tunic. In some ways, its similar to the WWII tunics, in other ways, it isn't. This is why I probably won't be able to make one that is "Stitch Nazi" level. I don't want to buy an expensive and nice tunic, just to take it apart. The E German tunics have a damn near similar, form fitting cut as the WWII ones. Not exactly cut, and the fabric pieces are shaped differently, as the WWII ones, but its close enough for loaner use. You won't notice it unless you are inspecting the tunic in front of you, not when its "dolled up" in a combat load, running and gunning. However, I do have an online store bought HBT tunic to use a model, and to modify the E German tunic pattern off of.

First draft of the pattern (sleeve pattern is was too big to fit in the picture): 



Unfortunately, I don't too much done at the moment, but I'm getting there. The main pieces have been cut out. The collar is partly sewn up, and one side of the tunic, sans sleeve, is sewn up as well.

This is where I stand right now:



I know I screwed up on the direction of the HBT grain on the completed side. I only screwed up on one piece and made sure I don't do it again. Even though, with how mass production goes, I'm sure some WWII tunics had the grain go a different way. Can't let a good piece of material go to waste, just because of the direction of the grain. 

As it looks, the cost of materials for just one tunic, is looking roughly like $35. $30 for two yards of HBT, and under roughly $5 for buttons. Probably less since I've been getting sets of 12 buttons from eBay for $3-$4 w/ free shipping. Worse comes to worst, Hiki Shop sells sets of 20 for $13 w/ free shipping. Neither of which are expensive. I will try to calculate a time that it takes for me to finished one, but it won't be pretty. What I'm getting at is, I don't think it will be a wise thing to try and sell off, especially with the Chinese made HBT tunics for so cheap. However though, I might be surprised like I was with my bread bags, haha. 

Anyway, that is really it for now. I know its not anything to be popping corks in celebrating over, but I know for a fact others are interested in seeing any sort of progress into this. Hopefully, I'll have my first finished one soon enough. If it looks good, I'll go and order more HBT material from ATF and make some more! 

[ssgjoe]

Hmm..kinda a shame that wool is so expensive. I'm really excited to see your four pocket tunics. I may actually pick one up! Shipping Chinese copies costs about as much as the tunic itself lol

[Dracul]

ssgjoe: Just hold tight, I'll get to those eventually, haha. 

Tonight's update. I got the core part of the prototype is finished, the "vest" part of it, if you will. I know it doesn't look like much at the moment, but its one of those things that only look good once (near) finished. At least in my eyes.

Front:


Back:



This is where I had a big error. I neglected to worry about the flap until now. If I recall correctly, the E German tunic doesn't even split like the WWII are supposed to... Regardless, I made corrections to the pattern, so it won't happen again. I don't have a serger, so I hope the stitch I used on my machine can prevent the fabric from fraying anymore. Ever looked on the inside of a tee shirt and you see a fancy stitch that connects the sleeve to shirt? A serger machine does just that. It prevents edges of fabrics from fraying without needing to hem or cover up the edges. Thats what exactly what is done to these HBT tunics in the back:


Lastly, some fine detail of my stitch/hem work when joining two pieces of fabric. 


All for tonight, tomorrow I'm going to attach the collar and begin on the sleeves, and editing the pattern to make proper looking cuffs. 

[ssgjoe]

When you make the shoulders, there is a very common problem that occurs in many repro tunic. The problem is that shoulders are shaped like a modern suit cost; the shoulders are pointy where the body and the sleeve meet. If you can make these tunics without those suit coat shoulders, that'd be great. Study original photos and look at the shoulders on original germs tunics. Try to replicate that as best as you can.

[ssgjoe]

But it might be a problem prevalent more in wool tunics, I've never dealt with repro HBT tunics.

[Dracul]

That's something that I would need to study originals for. My base pattern is from an E German tunic, whether or not they suffer the shoulder problems.

It seems like its a good match with my repro HBT tunic, but not sure if that's reassuring, though, haha.

[ssgjoe]

Well I'm looking forward to seeing them! I would be willing to purchase one in the future if you were willing

[Dracul]

Things are finally coming together now...

One sleeve finished and on, along with collar. 


Close up of the collar.


Bottom of sleeve, closed. 


Bottom of sleeve, open.



Obviously, there are plenty of mess ups, and I know I have to fix the sleeve pattern big time. But I was able to change the pattern as I went along. so, the next sleeve will be much more error free. I'll also have to work on the collar pattern, too. Also, I know they used a different material on the insides for hemming, fraying/unraveling prevention, or whatever else, but since thats all on the inside, I plan on just sweeping those details under the rug for now. It doesn't make sense to me to worry about getting new material for something I can accomplish just by using scraps of the main material. Maybe one day I'll try my hand at working the inside stuff properly, but its not important and not needed for my purposes currently. 

[Dracul]

Small update from tonights, no pics though.

I got the other sleeve made and attached, but I really have to work on the one of these patterns, the arm hole was too small for the sleeve. I can wear it, but I can't play with it, it should still be find for a guy smaller than I.

All thats left are the pockets and the buttons and button holes!

[Dracul]

PROTOTYPE IS FINISHED!!!!




Close up on the collar:


Its clear that there are things I need to work on. Big ones are that I need to make a correct flare out of the front flap (with button holes), fix the angle of the collar, and make the pockets the correct size. I made the pattern for the pockets based off of HBT tunic pockets, but didn't notice that the pockets are supposed to be taller on the Drillich tunics, until it was too late. Looks like the pockets are supposed to go roughly as high as the top part of the flap on a HBT tunic. I need to get more correct colored thread, too. 

Good news is, the sleeve sizing thing is not an issue. Its good for a US Medium, my arms are in there too tight. I can get it on, but I won't be able to play in it. Also, wife says that this feels like it was professionally made when she tried it on! 

And, now, the big question most people will have: "How does it look in full kit?" Well, here it is, in my ideal loaner kit. 


Fairly happy how this one turned out. Like the bread bags, I learned a lot and noted things I need to fix and change for my next one. They can only get better from here on out. 

I will be a bit before the next, I got sewing projects to do for other hobbies that need to be done, haha. 

[volkssturm]

Looks great!

[LϟϟAH1944]

Very nice work! Looks real nice! One suggestion would be to add hooks to the collar.

[ssgjoe]

Where would one get repro collar hooks? I may actually pick one up when you got some more made XD

[Dracul]

Thanks guys!

I definitely try to include the collar hooks for my next one. I believe I can source collar hooks from Hessen Antique and/or Hiki. I think they are also pretty cheap, too. Adding them to the materials needed will still make these under $35.

[Dracul]

Just got finished with my second prototype!

Fixed up a lot of the problems with my first one, figured how replicate some more of the construction processes, fixed up patterns, and streamlined the process. 

I still managed to screw up, though. Something went entirely wrong with the length of the patterns some how. I'm really clueless, but I'll have it fixed for the next prototype. I also have to remember to write the piece code on the INSIDE of the of the piece. I know my stitch work isn't the best either, and while I fixed the sleeve to sleeve hole thing, I still manage to screw up the sleeves. Again, nothing terribly wrong that will make this unwearable as a medium, but I can't play with it. I have a lot more movement in it than my first tunic, but not where I need it. I think I need to rotate the sleeves at a different angle while attaching. Despite all of this, I'm rather proud on how this turned out and my progress. 

Note, I know I was told that the Germans always used white thread, because they believe un-dyed thread was stronger. I, however, in my decade of sewing, found it to be the exact opposite. White thread always gives me problems when sewing. Even Gutermann white thread gives me hosts of problems. I'm using Gutermann tan/khaki thread for everything German. Gutermann is my go-to thread for pretty much everything I've done.  

(side note, I have small black buttons for the sleeve buttons on the way, everything else is complete, though)

The 2nd Prototype:


Close up of my Prototype's collar, with my Hiki HBT tunic under it for reference. 



Even closer look at the collars! I got collar hooks in there, too! I could only find ones that were either too big or too small. Naturally, I went with the too big ones, and luckily, you can barely even see them! 



Close up on the front flap's "flare up" as it runs along the base of the collar. I think the angle in which I took this shot make it look unflattering... It looks better actually. Note, those green lines are stitch lines that hold the collar hook straps in place, which in turn, holds the collar hooks in place. I tried to hide the stitch with green thread since I do not know how its properly done. I sewn them onto the bottom collar piece, so the stitches are hidden when the tunic is worn. 



Shot of the backs. Drillich tunic on top. HBT tunic on bottom for comparison. 



Now, here is the fun part! This is where a lot of my work is put together! Tunic, breadbag, and gamaschen made by me. 

Complete front shot of my ideal loaner kit. 



Complete back shot. 



Close up of chest and up. 



Loaner Kit List (from top to bottom):
-Plastic helm with Splinter cover =$20
-Homemade Drillich tunic           =$35
-Austrian Suspenders                =$6.50
-East German Belt                     =$10
-Serbian ammo pouches             =$15
-Homemade Breadbag                =$5
-Converted Czech Canteen          =$15
-East German Wool Trousers       =$16
-Homemade Gamaschen             =$8

Total cost = $130.50

I'm quite comfortable with this set up! 

Its actually costing less than $35 for the tunic. Since I still had a significant amount of material left over from the 2 yards I bought for my first tunic. Didn't measure out specifics, since it wasn't important, but it seems like the more I do, buying 2 yards for each one, the more I kind of save and may eventually build up to a "free" tunic. If that makes sense.... 

For my third prototype, I'm going to fix that pattern sizing issue, the sleeve issue, work out some kinks I had in the cuffs, and going to attempt to increase the general size of the tunic. At that point, I should have a really good homemade Drillich Tunic. Then it will be time to move onto making the full featured HBT Tunics!!!!

Final note, please excuse my Viking Beard, haha. I'm still not supposed to get the hand surgery area wet, and its on dominant hand at the base of the thumb, so I can't really shave. I mean, I can shave with my left hand, but I won't have any flesh by the end of it.... 

[2nd Bat]

Wow! Impressive amount of work!

[Dracul]

Thanks! Still got a bit more work to go to perfect my base patterns and processes. I can't wait until I start making full featured HBT tunics.

[2nd Bat]

This is so much more impressive than what I am doing. Thankfully the local airsoft teams that rent my costumes to put on a WW2 themed airsoft game (or come to mine) don't know (or care) how bad they are they just like doing something different that doesn't cost too much.

[2nd Bat]

Curiously in the field what was more common for combat units the drillich or the HBT? Did either typically have insignia or not? I have a couple sets of Turkish Mauser pouches that look very much like yours. I recently got some black spray on leather dye and was real pleased with how they came out. Not perfect of course but a nice enhancement.

[Dracul]

From what I understand, and anyone correct me if I'm wrong.

Drillich tunics were issued to everyone has work/labor wear, and HBT's were only issued to combat troops during the warm months and turned them in when it started to get colder again.

With that said, I don't think HBT tunics had any insignia, outside of shoulder boards and MAYBE a breast eagle. Stuff like rank wouldn't be put on since, you would just have to take it off again before turning it in. Thats not to say it wasn't done before or some officers did it to their HBT tunics and didn't turn them in.

I don't know about Drillich tunics and insignia.

For mine, even the eventual HBT tunics, I'll won't be using any insignia outside of standard white-piped shoulderboards.

[2nd Bat]

Interesting. I just don't have enough eye for detail to spot the HBT tunics in typical black and white photos although perhaps now with a more discerning eye I can. In color photos the very light olive of the HBTs kind of stand out but I just thought it was the wool fading.

[LϟϟAH1944]

Dracul, that's not entirely correct. Initially there was the 2-pocket off white HBT, which then early on (40 I believe) switched the the reed green, which in 41 or 42 turned into the 4-pocket cut we all know. Hence, M36 HBts never existed.

[LϟϟAH1944]

Also, normal HBT did have insignia. Drillich, its a hit or miss; sometimes they did, sometimes not.

[2nd Bat]

Hitler wanted more insignia on uniforms as he felt the WW1 uniforms were overly bland. He was a highly visual person (art student as a young man). His bias toward weapons was often influenced by how demonic or destructive they looked.

I like seeing insignia whenever it was likely or even possibly present, just because. I know that isn't driven by historical accuracy but its my flawed bias. Thankfully I am not likewise driven by an over powering urge for ethnic purity and world domination!

[ssgjoe]

Some HBT uniforms have insignia some don't. But don't adorn it in medals and lots of bling

[Dracul]

For Heer, I've read that having insignia was a hit or miss thing as well. Maybe I had a sheisty source about insignia on HBT or maybe I forgot since I didn't plan on using insignia in the past for these.

Either way, with the ideas coming from the "cheapest source for German uniform insignia?" thread, I don't see why I wouldn't be able to put breast eagles and litzen onto my (eventual) HBT tunics. I'll be getting insignia, en masse, for stupid cheap! It will be a funding issue no longer!

[insterburger]

With the plethoric Litzen (there's two words you don't usually see back to back!) you will have soon, there may be a temptation to bling these early-style Drillich tunics up. My advice would be to not mess with perfection. These are excellent looking, and insignia would be "gilding the lily."

The only thing I might try is run them through a wash/dry cycle a few dozen times so that they look a little more worn-in. Of course they could be issued "off the rack" as well, but I think a slightly used vibe would make them look all the more realistic.

Awesome stuff, Drac!

[Dracul]

Don't worry, my Drillich tunics won't be getting insignia.

Unless I decide to change up the 2 Drillich pockets to the 4 HBT pocket set up. But they wouldn't be Drillich tunics anymore.

I might do, I might not. I want to be able to get the base process down 100% before I worry about the "add-ons" that make HBT tunics differ from Drillich tunics.

I prefer that these are "off the rack," and I'll let gameplay and action to make them "worn-in."

Thanks!