Post by odinfish on Oct 1, 2007 14:55:02 GMT -5
These are Swedish Low Boots for those not familiar with them. Not exact in design as the original German Schnürschuhe but neither are ATF's or most reproduction ankle boots offered for under $200.
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/boots1.jpg
The next pic is my first conversion pair. The rubber heels were not replaced with leather as they "should" have been. This was done for experimental purposes in order to determine the durability of the heel while trying to maintain some comfort to the foot and ankle by utilizing the rubber material the boot came with.
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/boots2.jpg
Six months later, with almost daily wear, these boots have held up with no issues whatsoever. In comparison with another pair of Swedish Low Boots I've converted using leather to replace the rubber heel layer, I've noticed a significant difference in comfort. Less shock absorbency.
Take note that you will most likely not find a pair of heel irons that will fit the Swede boots. This guy did, but he also made them with a bit of ingenuity
panzergrenadier.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4284&sid=683b443d394ac877cfa5998e84e1a631
With that said I've found that flanged heel irons better suit the project as most are already 3" or larger in length and width. So that will lower the amount of heel leather or rubber you would have to shave off. See the comparison between the normal and converted pairs:
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/P1010008.jpg
Total cost: roughly $80
Shoe last: $15 from eBay. You need one if you're going to try your hand with any of this. Here's mine:
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/P1010009.jpg
Swedish Low Boots can be found at Wephaus and Military Tour. I'm sure other places sell them as well. I get my hardware from Bunker Militaria. Other materials you'll need are: Shoe Goo (if you're going to keep the rubber heel piece or use flanged heel irons), Black leather dye (I used Fiebings), Mink Oil to coat the dyed leather once it has dried, and finally, Sno-Seal(adds a nice "aged" color to leather and protects it).
If full instructions are needed, post your interest here. Any questions I'll be sure to answer as well
Mike
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/boots1.jpg
The next pic is my first conversion pair. The rubber heels were not replaced with leather as they "should" have been. This was done for experimental purposes in order to determine the durability of the heel while trying to maintain some comfort to the foot and ankle by utilizing the rubber material the boot came with.
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/boots2.jpg
Six months later, with almost daily wear, these boots have held up with no issues whatsoever. In comparison with another pair of Swedish Low Boots I've converted using leather to replace the rubber heel layer, I've noticed a significant difference in comfort. Less shock absorbency.
Take note that you will most likely not find a pair of heel irons that will fit the Swede boots. This guy did, but he also made them with a bit of ingenuity
panzergrenadier.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4284&sid=683b443d394ac877cfa5998e84e1a631
With that said I've found that flanged heel irons better suit the project as most are already 3" or larger in length and width. So that will lower the amount of heel leather or rubber you would have to shave off. See the comparison between the normal and converted pairs:
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/P1010008.jpg
Total cost: roughly $80
Shoe last: $15 from eBay. You need one if you're going to try your hand with any of this. Here's mine:
i189.photobucket.com/albums/z276/odinfish/P1010009.jpg
Swedish Low Boots can be found at Wephaus and Military Tour. I'm sure other places sell them as well. I get my hardware from Bunker Militaria. Other materials you'll need are: Shoe Goo (if you're going to keep the rubber heel piece or use flanged heel irons), Black leather dye (I used Fiebings), Mink Oil to coat the dyed leather once it has dried, and finally, Sno-Seal(adds a nice "aged" color to leather and protects it).
If full instructions are needed, post your interest here. Any questions I'll be sure to answer as well
Mike
