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Post by havoc on Dec 3, 2006 20:44:37 GMT -5
Ok, so, like the title suggests I require manuals for both the Marushin M1 Carbine (Maxi, 8mm model) and, if at all possible, the real-steel M1 Carbine. I need a parts breakdown (i.e. an exploded diagram), particularly the trigger and safety area.
Basically I was lucky enough to get hold of a well-worn M1 Carbine a few weeks ago, with the aim of making an M1A1 Para conversion out of it.
The stock is easy. I have a Type 2 barrel band on order to replace the one with the bayonet lug (talking of which, why is it in 2 pieces...?) on my Marushin. I have a flip rear sight on order as well, which will need some work to fit - hard to tell before it arrives quite what this will require. Once swapping those over, the only piece I really need to make a to-spec Overlord M1A1 Para conversion* is a push-button safety, but I have no idea if this is even vaguely feasable, hence why diagrams of both real and airsoft versions are needed, really.
Cheers
PS - Yeah, I did search but it either brought up thousands of results, or none at all. Sorry if this has been asked before.
*I also read that the early versions had a flat-topped bolt, but this is pretty much a no-go as far as airsoft versions go, so I'm gonna have to rule it out for now.
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savoy6
Private 1st Class
Posts: 428
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Post by savoy6 on Dec 4, 2006 9:56:01 GMT -5
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Post by Guinness on Dec 4, 2006 10:25:24 GMT -5
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Post by havoc on Dec 4, 2006 13:35:06 GMT -5
Yeah, I PMed you over on Arnie's some time ago when I had the idea the first time around. Some excellent information and the basis for my conversion. I knew about the dovetail on the RS Carbine and not on the Marushin, but I think I can only decide how to proceed when the RS sight turns up. I'm hoping to just take a Dremel to the dovetail section of the sight, so that it'll sit on the sight area of the Carbine fine while still leaving visible dovetail to either side (to make it look like it is in fact dovetailed in there). I guess I'll have to hold it on with epoxy or similar - we'll see. Thanks for those things, savoy6 - that's exactly what I needed. Cheers.
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savoy6
Private 1st Class
Posts: 428
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Post by savoy6 on Dec 4, 2006 15:02:12 GMT -5
too bad you can't find a M1A3 pantograph stock for it...then you'd have a rare gun indeed...
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Post by Guinness on Dec 4, 2006 19:15:49 GMT -5
That looks to be a much better system- as it is with the stock folded it is pretty awkward to shoot and the butt-end of the stock gouges the wood on the side when folded.
I saw another repro stock like mine at a gunshow over the weekend, they wanted $275 for it! yikes.
I thought that was you HaVoC! glad ya made it over here to the forums!
-G
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savoy6
Private 1st Class
Posts: 428
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Post by savoy6 on Dec 8, 2006 18:38:53 GMT -5
you'll find that the M1A1 stock has gotten fairly expensive since everyone is doing Easy/506th...lol...
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Post by havoc on Dec 18, 2006 10:31:39 GMT -5
Any ideas on getting the front sight off the Marushin? The roll pin through it looks like it's moulded in, and there's a strange pin-type thing in the top of it that obviously isn't but seems to have no real function. The barrel band and rear sight came today so it's time to get cracking
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Post by Guinness on Dec 18, 2006 11:56:19 GMT -5
yeah the pin is moulded.
There should be a hex screw on top between the blades toward the rear of the sight.
Slainte!
-G
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Post by havoc on Dec 18, 2006 14:31:03 GMT -5
Yeah, I felt like a dumbass after asking that. It looked like a roll-pin of some sort but it was actually a very worn hex screw.
I got the barrel band on dead easily - it was a straight swap, just the barrel band spring needed a little filing, so I think I'll substitute it for a real one eventually.
The rear sight was a COMPLETE BITCH, but it's on now. I'm just waiting for the epoxy to set. If I'd not had my trusty Dremel I'd have been in trouble, but it is possible to fit. I just took the dovetail on the sight down to a block with straight vertical sides, if you get me, then cut a slot through it to allow the funny ridge in the Marushin's sight slot to fit in. I actually breached the metal on the bottom but only very slightly - when it's on the gun you can't see a thing. A lick of paint and it should look superb.
The only slight problem with the rear sight, and one that didn't seem fixable given the amount of material I'd have to remove, is that it sits slightly too high. It's just a couple of millimeters, it's hardly noticable especially with the epoxy in place, and since this isn't a skirmish gun it won't affect the function, so I can live with it.
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