Green gas and + Grease Gun

[sabrepilot9000]

Hey all, I'm pretty new here and am looking at getting a grease gun to go with my 1911 and mauser. Since I have all the stuff to use green (propane adaptor etc.) I was wondering what it would take to run it on green. Any modifications to be made or anything like that. I know there is a spring set for it but i dont know if those will help. Maybe shimming the stock springs? Anyway, please let me know what can be done, any input and advice would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.

-David

[2nd Bat]

David,

My experience with the grease gun is no matter what you do, you do not want to use Green gas. 134 only! I have used green gas in my Grease guns (I've had three of them!) in fairly cool weather (below 60 dgrees and I was okay) At over 75 degree the gun ate it's young with green gas. There are many wonderful Hudson grease gun body cavities with non functioning internals as result of someone saying oh what the heck I'm sure it'll be okay. The Hudson Grease gun has the most involved and violent blow back action of any gun I've fired (including the marushin Garand) That's cool from a realism perspective but not from a durability point of view.

It can be a fairly persnickety gun to own and use (as can any gas replica) but is very cool when it's all working right.

[sabrepilot9000]

Thanks for the info. Time for some duster i guess, lol. Do you or anyone else have or know of any breakdown drawings or diagrams for the gun? I have the oppurtunity to buy one right now for 120 w/ silencer. Do you think its a good deal for the gun? I've never even seen one let alone fired one in person so I'm kind of in the dark about it really.

[2nd Bat]

That sounds like a very good deal if it's functioning okay. Keep in mind it's a 60 round magazine and new magazines run about $60.00 a piece if you can get them. You need at least one spare to use the gun in a skirmish if that's your intent. If you're just planning on plinking just the one mag is fine. The gun is a really fun gas blow back to fire. It's not very accurate in the grand scheme of things (neiher was the real steel) but it's loud and intimidating as all get out and real fun to shoot. There's a full review of the gun somewhere on the site with lots of comments from others. If you use duster be sure to add silicon to everything.

[sabrepilot9000]

Oh yeah, I always make sure to keep my stuff lubed. As far as i know the guy selling it has never used it in a game and has only gotten about 500 rounds through it. But yeah, I do want to skirmish with it so I definitely will need the extra mags, or I could just fall back on my pistols . I saw that review, too, and I got a bunch of info from that. It sounds like a fairly fun gun to me. Ever since I got my SP M16 (only post wwii airsoft i own) I've been totally obsessed with GBB. Love the feel, sound and overall realism of it. Great stuff. Thanks again, 2nd Bat

-David

[2nd Bat]

It sounds like you absolutely have the right temperment for the gun.

[vince]

he gas system in the Hudson grease gun is very capable of running on green gas, with the right modifications.

The absolute one thing that fails when green gas is used are the guide channels on either side of the bolt. This is because of POOR designing in that specific area. If you look carefully, the only things that stop the bolt when its flying rear wards are the recoil springs themselves. When the bolt recoils, they are compressed to their fullest, and when all the coils have bottomed out on each other, it stops the bolt's rearward movement. The springs and nothing else bear all the burden of taking the shock of the recoil, and have to push the bolt forward again. The springs are thin, and the channels in the sides of the bolt that the guide rods slide in are only a few thousands of an inch smaller than the diameter of the springs. So in short, the very inner rim of the channels are the only parts of the bolt that bear the force of the recoil.




With the front of the springs only contacting a small portion on the plastic bolt, around the guide rod channels, eventually they will jam up into the channels themselves, and they usually crack the bolt.

This is why I made a recoil buffer assembly.


It consists of two pieces of delrin plastic, with the larger bolted to rear of the bolt, and at the rear guide rod bar is another thinner delrin washer.

All that they do is slam into each other when the bolt recoils all the way rearward, but in doing so, it takes all the shock of the recoiling bolt off of the springs, and onto a larger surface area.

I really makes it shake, and recoil harder and much louder, which is a double cool. But its more of a solid, and sturdy blowback, than a vulnerable weakening clack when it was just the springs absorbing the recoil.



Also, I did install a flow restrictor in the mag valve, and that brings it down to a much more manageable rate of fire, and scares me alot less concerning the internals.

Ive been using propane in my modified M3 for around two years now, and its been without a hitch so far.

So far...

[2nd Bat]

Wow! That's terrific! What does Green gas do to your FPS vs 134. Obviously it's improves it but by how much?

[CharleyNovember]

What about using stiffer recoil springs. Obviously you would have to play around with the spring rate till you got the right one not too stiff not too limp. You should be able to come up with something that wouldn't bottom out but would give a good FPS boost and a slower ROF.

[vince]

Fps, Oh god...

Its up there. It'll go through the top of a coke can on a sunny day, and Ill tell you that right now.

Ive used it in games when it is cold out, and most people dont seem to mind anyway, because usually they already know that you cant hit $hit with it.

Stiffer recoil springs are a big no no.
In the case of the grease gun you want to have as whimpy of recoil springs as you can, without being too weak as not to release gas from the mag. In this gun, the bolt actually needs to bottom out on somthing, but the springs are a bad choice of the engineers. If you put a spring stiff enough to not bottom out the bolt in the short amount af distnace that it travels, It would probably be even too stiff to cycle the action. When you want to compress a spring, but not bottom it out, you have to have the right amount of distance. In this gun's case, there really is not enough distance of travel for any weak enough spring to keep from bottoming out. Because the bolt has a limited amount of travel, pretty much every other spring thats stiffer will detract from this amount of travel, and may not cycle the bolt. The srpings already in it, are to made to a specific lenght, so as to bottom out at the right distance. And if you put a stiffer spring in it, it wont have that critical distance of travel.

I think the ideal thing would be to actually cut off a portoion of the original springs, and take and stack the same length of a stiffer spring in front of where you cut. In this instance, the weak spring will still bottom out, but, when the weak spring bottoms out, the stiffer spring dosent, and absorbs the recoil force without putting shock on the plastic bolt.

Actually, stronger springs UP the ROF. because they have more tensility (spring force) they push the bolt forward more rapidly, and this hits the mag valve harder. And with more gas coming out of the valve, and the bolt being pushed forward much faster than a weak spring could, the rate of cycling will increase.

[taylor]

Where were you two months ago!? (haha)

If I had known all of that, I might have kept mine!
naaa