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Post by springfieldarmory on Dec 20, 2009 16:57:21 GMT -5
I think it would turn on/off the internal magazine. I think it is something to do with the spring...
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roma
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Post by roma on Dec 20, 2009 18:30:56 GMT -5
This switch for switching on/off magazine. If you turn it on it works like bolt movement limit. You can extract the used case from rifle but can not catch next ammo from magazine. So it turns to be like single load rifle. Excuse me for my english, I hope you understand what I mean. |
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Dec 20, 2009 21:42:39 GMT -5
The Springfield as you probably know had an internal five round box "magazine" The spring at the bottom forced each round upward so the bolt could slide it forward into the firing chamber. The ON OFF lock out held the rounds in the mag well and prevented them from being slid into the chamber by the bolt. As ROMA mentioned this allowed you to hand load individual rounds.
This was especially helpful for example if you were wanting to load the blank round that powered the rifle grenade. It adds a lot to the looks of your modifed reciver group (as does the READY Switch) ROMAs conversion is by far the most attractive I've seen and really provides excellent detailed pictures that can serve as a wonderful template for others to try and replicate although in my opinion it's not likely anyone will do it better.
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deacon
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Post by deacon on Dec 22, 2009 13:23:08 GMT -5
it is also the bolt release.
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roma
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Post by roma on Dec 22, 2009 13:32:13 GMT -5
Finally a made it!  with big efforts  |
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roma
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Post by roma on Dec 23, 2009 8:02:49 GMT -5
Das somebody know how to remove bolt-cylinder shining?
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deacon
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Post by deacon on Dec 24, 2009 0:25:41 GMT -5
well if that were to be an army sharpshooters 1903, the bold should be shiny. If it was to be a marine rifle, they blued all the bolts to their 1903s. so it all depends. I would suspect it being metal, you could use the gel bluing stuff. its not too bad price wise. I just don't remember what its called.
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daug
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Post by daug on Feb 14, 2010 5:36:21 GMT -5
Very nice adaptation, and apparently without special tools. Thank you this gives full of ideas...
Very very good Job....Friendly "The Frenchy"
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Post by volkssturm on Feb 14, 2010 20:30:23 GMT -5
well if that were to be an army sharpshooters 1903, the bold should be shiny. If it was to be a marine rifle, they blued all the bolts to their 1903s. so it all depends. I would suspect it being metal, you could use the gel bluing stuff. its not too bad price wise. I just don't remember what its called. Birchwood Casy Super Blue is a brand I've used before on RS guns. You should be able to find it or a similar product at any place that sells guns. Be sure to degrease the metal really well or it won't work. And wear rubber gloves. |
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Post by springfieldarmory on Feb 14, 2010 21:43:00 GMT -5
Does anybody know if there were any WW1 issue Springfield's without the finger grooved stocks? All of the photos I have seen with them have the grooves.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 15, 2010 1:13:32 GMT -5
There were a wide variety of minute variants. Some M1903A1s had finger grooves and some did not. Some had stock bolts and some did not The major variants are the stock shaped designs (Straight stock, scant stock and C stock) The other major difference as you know is the ladder site and shorter upper handguard on the WW1 and between wars variants and the A3 variant with the rear peep site and longer upper handguard. Many of the A1s ended up in the hands of soldiers and were used throughout WW2 although by the end of the war most were upgraded to the newer configuration.
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Post by springfieldarmory on Feb 15, 2010 9:09:43 GMT -5
Okay. Why exactly will a real finger grooved stock not work? Is there any way you could further modify the base rifle to fit in a finger grooved stock?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 16, 2010 17:45:59 GMT -5
You can do a finger groove if you utilize the rear portion of the base Bar 10 stock and either create a forward section or utilize the upper section of a Springfield stock. I've done a couple that way and they came out pretty nice. (like you I like the looks of the finger groove) The problem with a finger grooved stock or trying to create one into an actual stock is the groove doesn't allow enough depth on the stock sidewalls for the Bar 10 magazine. You'd literally create two holes in the sides of your stock. As it is, drilling and then chiseling out the mag well area is pretty tricky stuff as there is not alot of room for error. With the plastic stock I used a dremel and sanding wheels to groove out appropriate looking functional finger grooves. Using the Bar 10 stock is a much much easier way to go with any Mauser type conversion. (Kar98, Enfield, Mosen Nagant, Springfield etc.) The C stock grip is holloe so other stock variants can be replicated such as the scant stock although a straight stock is more challenging.
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Post by springfieldarmory on Feb 16, 2010 18:07:58 GMT -5
So even if I cut away all of the unnecessary material, there still wouldn't be enough room for the magazine?!How much depth do the finger grooves take away (sorry, I just like the idea of using real stocks) Since my great-grandfather was in the Army Air Corps during WW1 (although my grandma says he didn't actually fly) I want to replicate s WW1 Springfield that may have been refurbished early in the war. My research has led me to believe that all or nearly all were issued with finger grooves. I don't know, I just think they sort of "complete" the gun.
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Post by springfieldarmory on Feb 16, 2010 18:42:34 GMT -5
Now I'm debating whether or not I should try to make a straight grip finger grooved stock work, or if I should choose the Less common stock for it (like the pre-war C stock). The C grip would be (I think) easier to hold, and a bit differant, but there is just something about the finger grooved stock that looks right.
EDIT: Just looked into this a little more. Until 1921 (ish) all Springfield's were manufactured with finger grooved stocks. I have been looking at pictures of the finger grooved stock and I think it might work, but will be a squeeze. I don't want to spend money on something that might fail, though, so I'll probably take your word on it (you have more experience at this than I do)
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roma
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Post by roma on Feb 17, 2010 10:16:18 GMT -5
Very nice adaptation, and apparently without special tools. Thank you this gives full of ideas... Very very good Job....Friendly "The Frenchy" Thanks to all for your responses and advices! |
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Feb 17, 2010 12:22:48 GMT -5
Wood is remarkably strong even when very thin (provided there is no stress on the area) You might be able to make it work with a fingered grooved stock but I wouldn't risk it. I do love the look of the fingered stock in the classic straight stock layout. You will pay considerably more typically, for a finger grooved stock and it would be a pity to ruin one.
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Post by springfieldarmory on Feb 17, 2010 16:21:40 GMT -5
I don't know, I want to try it, but there is the risk that it wont work. I think I've decided against it. I don't have to money now to risk destroying a vintage stock, and if this conversion goes well, I may try to use a finger grooved stock. We'll see. But the finger grooved stock looks so good!  |
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Post by springfieldarmory on Apr 9, 2010 20:41:17 GMT -5
What do you do for the mag release?
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 18, 2010 14:16:14 GMT -5
What do you do for the mag release? I am sorry for my english but who is the man you are adressing to? |
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Post by springfieldarmory on Apr 18, 2010 14:19:22 GMT -5
No one in particular, I just want to know what you guys are doing for the mag release (I don't see the push button one in 2nd Batt's pictures)
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 18, 2010 14:32:57 GMT -5
No one in particular, I just want to know what you guys are doing for the mag release (I don't see the push button one in 2nd Batt's pictures) I cut out the mag releasing mechanism from Vsr body and screwed it in the Springfield stock. If you need I can make a picture of it. |
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Post by springfieldarmory on Apr 18, 2010 14:38:03 GMT -5
Could you?
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 18, 2010 14:48:38 GMT -5
Something like that. For the moment I have only my mobile phone.  |
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Post by springfieldarmory on Apr 18, 2010 14:54:11 GMT -5
Oh, okay. How did you know how deep in the stock to put it?
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 18, 2010 15:05:24 GMT -5
Oh, okay. How did you know how deep in the stock to put it? Just by eyes and place. |
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Post by sarge12 on Apr 18, 2010 20:55:50 GMT -5
what base gun did you use
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roma
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Post by roma on Apr 19, 2010 12:37:28 GMT -5
what base gun did you use I used chinese VSR-10 . |
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 14, 2010 11:48:54 GMT -5
An update on this thread. I am primarily still focused on the Garand conversions and have sold an amazing 346 of them to date. The price has come down on them and they currently start at $425.00 with most of them priced at $560.00
I ended up building 12 Springfields in an assortement of variants and sold them for $500 to 900.00 depending on details and effort. I am building another five using the inspiration from Hairey Apples approach and will see how that goes. I will post pictures here of that progress.
The plan is to do one A4 with C stock, no sites and a weaver style 3 power scope. The other four will be scant stock variants with either the ladder sights or the rear peep sight and appropriately will have the A upper handguard or the longer WW2 style A3 handguard.
My intent is for folks to take these projects on themselves as selling them makes no sense since there is no recovery on the labor extended. It is a fun project and my feeling is these rifles will make excellent rental or loaner guns at local events.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 2, 2010 0:12:51 GMT -5
It has been several years since this thread was active. In the interim most of my focus has been on the Garand AEGs and indeed I have been a busy boy with them having now produced and sold 360+ of the Garands. Efficiencies and molded parts have allowed me to build them in less time and with greater consistency. They are now priced from $425.00 to $560.00. My biggest issue now is availability of parts. The snug mounted base shotgun mags being the biggest problem lately. If it's not one thiung it's another. For a time getting CYMA 032 base M14s was a real issue. This current challenge allows me time to focus once again on Springfields and I am building another batch for my own purposes. In addition I am building a SMLE British bolt action and a CZ Czech Carbine which was used during the war and should be perfect for parisans etc.
The approach I'm taking on these is based on lessons learned and already the build process has been much easier. I'll post pictures of the process and the finished projects. Costs of materials are being kept to a minimum as I am again just using these for my own purposes and I want to have several on hand. I hope to be in them around $200 to $250.oo each in terms of materials costs including the base Bar 10 rifles. The labor though drastically reduced from the earlier batches is still fairly considerable and far too involved to produce these for commercial sale at affordable prices.
Sgt Tom and Tommy Gunner I think are still making their services available to others and their price points are ludicrous for the time and costs required. My plan is to have a scant stock WW1 M1903 ladder site a M1903 scant stock A3 with peep site and longer upper handguard. I also bought parts to do a SMLE and a C stock A4 sniper with scope.
Should be fun and it will be cool once I have them done.
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with big efforts
