Adler69
Master sergeant 
Legio Patria Nostra
Posts: 2,859
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Post by Adler69 on Mar 12, 2010 21:34:01 GMT -5
Yeah , but most restored WC's i have seen are missing the cats eye.
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 12, 2010 21:36:22 GMT -5
Not to be a dick, but did you try putting air in them? I can see they're rotted as hell, but you'd be surprised. At least you have two spares! I predict it will run by Sunday night, and move under it's own power before next weekend.  I am as optimistic about it's chances of running. I'm calling my GF right now to see if she can get the plugs, wires and cap and rotor for it. She works at an autoparts store... The clutch seemed to work. The wheels are spun, nothing was frozen up. I think there is a good chance I can have it moving in a week. I also work nights part time right now, so I have all day to work on it. As far as the tires, I just didn't have a compressor where it was. I will try to put air in them tomorrow. Who knows... There are three more tires still at her house and two of them looked good. The last was cracked but didnt' look horible. |
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Adler69
Master sergeant
Legio Patria Nostra
Posts: 2,859
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Post by Adler69 on Mar 12, 2010 21:42:06 GMT -5
I hope all the tires are good man , i know it will sound dumb , but nothing ruins a great vehicle restoration like a set of modern 4x4 tires.
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 13, 2010 1:10:48 GMT -5
Yeah , but most restored WC's i have seen are missing the cats eye. I just went and looked... I have one  The other tail light is smashed. Too bad. Question for ya... how do you date these things? None of the info tags seemed to have a manufacter date, and I can't find anything online about what serial numbers go to what years. I have no idea what year this thing is. I'll search it a little better tomorrow, but if you've got a website that has serial number info that would be swell. |
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Adler69
Master sergeant
Legio Patria Nostra
Posts: 2,859
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Post by Adler69 on Mar 13, 2010 1:28:34 GMT -5
Best site i know is: www.ww2dodge.comThey will help you out with all the info you will need. |
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 13, 2010 20:55:59 GMT -5
Well.... it turns over! VERY slowly.. but it turns over. The wiring is really fubared... that damn mouse ate up the wiring pretty bad. Hopefully he drowned when I pressure washed the engine. I had to actually take jumper cables and hook the battery straight to the starter to get anything out of it. I am going to try tomorrow to take off the belt and see if it turns over faster. Maybe the generator or waterpump is frozen up and hanging things up. The info tag that has the serial number is missing... so I still don't know what year it is. But I got all the poop out of the bed and boxes.
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Post by troyluginbill on Mar 14, 2010 2:37:21 GMT -5
yep they had only one brake/running light and one b/o in the back. The two b/o running lights are designed so that they have a certain pattern at a certain distance, that way you can make a quick determination of how close the guy is behind you in a convoy situation. That looks really complete, you arent missing much which is good because then you dont have to guess what hole "x" and tab "b" are for. This guys site has everything you need for the bed-wood dimensions, plans, hardware,etc. www.wc-52.com/ |
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Post by troyluginbill on Mar 14, 2010 2:39:37 GMT -5
you can find the s/n on the frame just in front of the drivers side wheel over the front spring mount.
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ersatzjack2
Private 1st Class
"We can still win this thing, once the secret weapons arrive."
Posts: 612
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Post by ersatzjack2 on Mar 14, 2010 6:57:15 GMT -5
The photos don't do it right. It's actually very complete and in very good shape. Deacon, you want to really hate me... $1200. That's your down payment. It is going to add up. Still, great deal and you're going to have loads of fun. Good luck. |
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CptJericho
Private 1st Class
"We got to stop the Germans from getting the secret weapons!"
Posts: 495
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Post by CptJericho on Mar 14, 2010 11:05:36 GMT -5
Harry apple you inspired me to look around for a ww2 vehicle just as you have done, and guess what i found, a 1942 willys jeep in the same city as me, im going down today too look at it.
But back to your vehicle, good luck and have fun rebuilding it.
PS post more pics ;D
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 14, 2010 18:12:20 GMT -5
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Adler69
Master sergeant
Legio Patria Nostra
Posts: 2,859
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Post by Adler69 on Mar 14, 2010 18:19:43 GMT -5
Looks like the tires hold air , that's great , very little corrosion also.
So have you decided on a name ?
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Post by tw4449 on Mar 14, 2010 18:33:59 GMT -5
I like Betsie... but I'm weird anyway.  |
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Post by CharleyNovember on Mar 14, 2010 18:49:23 GMT -5
You make it hard not to hate you when you keep posting pics. I hope I can find something like this around here one day.
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CptJericho
Private 1st Class
"We got to stop the Germans from getting the secret weapons!"
Posts: 495
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Post by CptJericho on Mar 14, 2010 19:17:01 GMT -5
U planning on mounting a browning 1919 on it?
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 14, 2010 19:40:30 GMT -5
Looks like the tires hold air , that's great , very little corrosion also. So have you decided on a name ? 3 of the 4 on it hold air. I have 3 more to try. Not one of them is "good" though. They are all pretty cracked and or rotted out. Too bad becuase they aren't cheap. Yeah, other then the wood tops, the body has very little corrosion. The battery box is got pretty bad cancer, but it's all in the floor and a small ammount up the side. Basicly it's only in the two flat parts. My dad does sheet metel roofs so it shouldn't be too hard to cut out the bad parts and weld in a new corner. You know, I've never named any of my own vehicles... the ones that have had names have been given to them by others. I guess it nees a 40's name though... One more thing:  ;D ;D ;D |
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Post by sarge12 on Mar 14, 2010 19:47:58 GMT -5
how bout "Haulin' Ass" haha, i saw a b17 named after that.
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deacon
Private 1st Class
Posts: 748
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Post by deacon on Mar 14, 2010 21:46:06 GMT -5
How about "Deacon hates my ass"? haha
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Post by troyluginbill on Mar 14, 2010 22:20:39 GMT -5
you planning on a frame off restoration or a rolling restoration to begin with?
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 14, 2010 23:13:37 GMT -5
Rolling restoration. Actually, I plan on keeping most of the dents and dings. I see no reason to take away that character from it. I am going to replace what needs to be replaced, and fix stuff that needs fixing, but I am going to do my best to stay away from the "just out of the factory" look and go more for what it might have looked like while in service. Dents, scratches, dings, not perfect paint. If it was a total mess that would be a differant story, but this girl is going to get the rust fixed, a quick paint job, new tires, seats recovered, wood replaced, and get everything working and that's about all to start with. Once it's usable I'll start slowly going doing other things to get it in better shape, but I don't want something I can take to a car show... I want a ww2 army truck.  I am looking into how exactly I want to make the truck look overall when done (done is a funny word when it comes to project trucks). Do I want to stick a cannon in it and make it a 55? Do I want to put the canvas on it and make more of a troop carrier? Who knows, I've been looking at lots of photos of them trying to decide what I want to do overall. I will probably put a 1919 or m2 on it though. Just cause it would be cool. |
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Post by shadycadence on Mar 14, 2010 23:16:46 GMT -5
Oh man, you were supposed to change the oil BEFORE you cranked it over! Just REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS BEFORE YOU CRANK IT AGAIN, in case it doesn't drain past the rings. You do NOT want to bend a connecting rod. It should have plenty of room, but better safe than sorry.
Edit: Exactly what I would do, a "field restoration". Whatever would be fixed to keep it in service.
I would go for a modular setup. Make the cannon removable. ;D
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 14, 2010 23:20:47 GMT -5
It's OK! The plugs were out when I cranked it. But the sludge would be the reason it was turning over so SLOW.
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CptJericho
Private 1st Class
"We got to stop the Germans from getting the secret weapons!"
Posts: 495
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Post by CptJericho on Mar 14, 2010 23:38:03 GMT -5
when you get it running make sure to make a youtube video.
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deacon
Private 1st Class
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Post by deacon on Mar 15, 2010 0:21:05 GMT -5
Make that sucker look like this badass inspiration!  |
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 15, 2010 23:00:42 GMT -5
The wiring is a mess. I don't have spark... but it's turning over much more freely now. Got the oil pan cleaned out today. It was... hum... chocolate puddin' anyone?  The crank looked awesome though. And there were no metel bits in the sludge. Once I figure out the spark hopefully it will fire up. Bad news though... the rear pinion is broken. I can turn the driveshaft with my hands with the truck out of gear. Bummer. Hopefully it's not too hard to fix. |
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Post by sarge12 on Mar 15, 2010 23:54:03 GMT -5
Wow! That's not nearly as bad as I thought the oil pan would be.
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Post by sarge12 on Mar 15, 2010 23:57:49 GMT -5
How much do think a new wire harness will be ?
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deacon
Private 1st Class
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Post by deacon on Mar 16, 2010 0:06:32 GMT -5
It aint a harness really. If you look at the wiring diagrams of 1940-1950 dodges, its stupid easy. You cant buy them either, it will need to be reconstructed. Its actually cheaper than you think. Oh, hairy, if you need anything for that motor, I may be able to help. There are a few guys I know that supplied me with parts for my Dodge 230 flathead.
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Post by troyluginbill on Mar 16, 2010 0:28:53 GMT -5
actually you can buy the wiring harness, either midwest mil or vintage dodge has them. It aint as easy as it looks if you dont have any reference points. There are 7 separate wiring harnesses on a WC 51/52, they all have to work in conjunction with each other or there will be problems. complete set of wiring for a wc is about 500.00. You may not have to replace all of them. The engine harnesses are the easiest to replace.
your differentials are easily accessible and self contained units. Getting them out will be easy, just use a transmission jack so you dont drop it on your head. You may get lucky and someone simply didnt connect the universal back up to the differential if they were changing the transmission.
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Post by hairy apple on Mar 16, 2010 11:25:15 GMT -5
Yeah, I don't know about the rear diff. I did notice they were drop out which is always really nice. With the truck in 4x4 the driveshafts won't turn... but in 2x4 the rear driveshaft just spings around and around. Can't be good news....
The wiring harnesses probally all need to be replaced. That damn mouse did a good job on them. I need to get a hold of a wiring diagram for it and see if I can figure out if there is anything totally missing or broken anywhere. I have one wire attached to some little box that I have no idea where it goes, the wire going in runs to the coil so I'm better it is something important.. ha ha. Sucks for me, anything mechanical I have no issues taking apart and fixing... wiring and electrical... confuses me and I suck at it.
Since I have to pull out the rear diff anyway, I'm going go ahead and drop out the transmission and transfer case and clean them up and replace seals and what not. They original paint is still in good shape on the xcase and trans... just hiding under a lot of grease and dirt.
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The other tail light is smashed. Too bad. 
