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Post by CharleyNovember on Jan 7, 2011 21:35:47 GMT -5
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Post by cole97 on Jan 7, 2011 21:54:52 GMT -5
thanks for the link! if i cant find it locally ill get it there! |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant 
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 8, 2011 21:36:51 GMT -5
It's remarkably solid and hardens fairly quickly. It can be sanded and filed and painted if the need is present. In your case the sheet metal will provide additional rigidity although the dynaglass will probably add more regidity to your sheet metal than vica versa. In the event one is doing a project where some load bearing strength is required lay metal screws or bolts the length of that which you are filiing and it will serve as a sort of rebar. This stuff when used right is pretty amazing and can generate alot of creativity and solve lots of problems.
Nasty stuff to breath however so use a ventilator and work with in a open air flow area. Follow the instructions carefully as mixing it too hot with too much hardner can be problematic and even present a fire hazard.
When used properly it's cool stuff.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 8, 2011 22:03:33 GMT -5
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Post by cole97 on Jan 8, 2011 22:25:26 GMT -5
by the way for the dyna glass stock i was thinking when i mold it i could just pour some dark blackish brown colored paint in with the resin so its all the color and the paint wont chip ect. the back of the stock will also have a monster pipe (same diameter as the barrel) running all the way through it so i think that would be a good rebar.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 8, 2011 22:36:41 GMT -5
as of now im also not sure with the pipe in the stock where the battery will be. i was actually thinking of using some sort of connector (i apologize im not so good at electrical things) that will conncect to the battery plug on the motor, then attaching it to the lower reciever, and having the other conncetor connected to another in the stock. so when you pull the lower reciever off its just like the real thing and you dont have to unplug any wires, and it automatically disconnects. if anyone knows what kind of electrical thing ill need for that let me know. i was also thinking a stick battery in the stock, where you conncect it to the previously mentioned connector in the stock, then you slide it in from the side opposite the butt plate. what do you guys think? i think thats the most convienient way. i also wont have to do much carving of the stock and it wont be in the way of the pipe in the stock.?
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Jan 8, 2011 23:18:20 GMT -5
Great work so far man! Can't wait to see how this turns out.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 9, 2011 1:32:03 GMT -5
thanks! ill see how i go tomarro! its great to know that people are interested!
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jan 9, 2011 6:35:10 GMT -5
Looks good so far.  I think when everything's welded together, 1mm sheet will be fine. Just reinforce the areas where the barrel and buttstock will attach. Good luck! And Oddball's videos are very helpful. I used his MG42 build videos as reference as well. |
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Post by cole97 on Jan 9, 2011 18:07:30 GMT -5
thanks! i hope it will be okay. and yes, i totally agree, odball's videos are excellent! i will add some thick steel on both ends to make it more ridged. but as it is its alright. now, time for a...update! ;D so today i got alot done. i added reinforcement (they double as spacers) around the gear box area so its ridged and the gear box doesnt wobble (36ga./ 1/2mm steel). just that thin steel makes a pretty big difference. i also added the back grip portion out of some pipe i cut out, cut slots, then bent it on the angle i wanted. welded it all up, and ground it back. it looks okay for now. i will also add some 5mm steel i got today around the part at the front thats been bent so the magazine doesnt wobble. this will also double as reinforcement. pictures:     |
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Post by freelancer on Jan 9, 2011 18:16:15 GMT -5
Great work so far. cant wait to see it done.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 9, 2011 22:17:26 GMT -5
ive also just welded in 5mm plate around the end part, and i still need to build it up and then grind it back nice and smooth so ill see how it goes. ill take a picture when im done with that.
oh, and thanks freelancer! i also enjoyed your thompson project! it looked beautiful! i hope my BAR will be close to it as well!
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biged
Master sergeant
Posts: 468
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Post by biged on Jan 16, 2011 10:51:20 GMT -5
Looks great man! I wish I had more time because I really want to build a steel BAR now too.
///ed///
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Post by cole97 on Jan 16, 2011 12:29:48 GMT -5
Haha thank you! its a great time doing this so far. ive only been able to work on it on weekends so its been a little slow working on it for me too. i did get some more done yesterday though and ill take pictures and share as soon as i can. its a great steel working project and gives it the weight of the real thing (currently with the gear box in it weighs 4.5 pounds). i hope you get the time to make your BAR!
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Post by burke on Jan 16, 2011 15:08:38 GMT -5
What kind of welder are you using?
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Post by cole97 on Jan 16, 2011 20:44:41 GMT -5
just a cheap mig welder. it's made apparently by a company called "chicago electric welding systems", if that helps. nothing special, just something to fill the void of not having a decent welder in the garage. 230v "MIG 151" it says on the welder itself. it works quite well and im hoping to get some argon gas for it soon as well, for a cleaner weld. without the gas its just fine and i have no problems with it at all.
i do have to keep it on the minimum setting when using the thin steel that the sides of the reciever are made of so i dont blow holes in it, but thats no big deal. the welds are strong and dont break.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 16, 2011 20:50:28 GMT -5
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Post by cole97 on Jan 25, 2011 21:29:05 GMT -5
ive made some of the front portion of the receiver and then started wondering about if i should make a threaded barrel that screws off, or a fixed barrel thats welded in. im not very sure. i could tap the front plate im making and have it screw off, and use a pipe tapping wrench to do the barrel. what do you guys think?
ill post pictures when i finish the barrel.
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HornetWSO
Private 1st Class
"We may not have a history, but we have a rendezvous with destiny!"
Posts: 551
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Post by HornetWSO on Jan 25, 2011 22:39:24 GMT -5
Threading will give you versatility and strength.
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Jan 26, 2011 0:58:19 GMT -5
If you will recall I sent you a picture showing how I modified an M14 butt stock to replicate quite accurately a BAR butt stock. It would save you a lot of fabrication and would provide you with a hollow butt stock already set up for your battery. You can even modify the M14 butt plate flap to look like the BAR by mounting the hinge in a knob above the rear of the stock. With some Dyna glass you can enhance the shape where it needs it and with a thin coating then painted it would look and feel just like the original.
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Post by volkssturm on Jan 26, 2011 20:42:59 GMT -5
Could I ask you to send me that pic? I'm workinmg on a quick and dirty (in my case slow and dirty) M14 conversion. thanks.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 26, 2011 23:12:49 GMT -5
I do recall the pictures and instructions , and I got to looking at the m14 butt stock, and it pretty close how it is. its almost the right thickness even. But there is still the problem of there being no stock support space in the plastic. I could epoxy in a steel tube that slides over the other, and I would have more battery space, but, I'm not sure. If that doesnt work out, I will probably make a mold postitive for both peices, the front furniture of wood, and the butt stock of the modified m14 butt stock. Maybey make a mold of them and cast them in resin? Just so they are matching in material. If all else fails I'll make it out of wood. |
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Post by cole97 on Jan 26, 2011 23:23:47 GMT -5
HornetWSO, I think your right. I'm starting to lean towards a threaded barrel. After I screw it off, if the hole is big enough I should be able to pull the hopup out that way (which I'm not sure if I mentioned, but its an m14 hopup).
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Post by BigBoy on Jan 28, 2011 18:29:04 GMT -5
Being a retired design engineer with over 40 years experience design things that work, threading is the best way to go to mount the barrel. It offers more strength and stability. If you put a bipod on your M1918A2, there will be a very large mass a very long distance from the mount and I'm sure with normal use, there will be very large forces placed on the barrel mounting. I'd suggest a barrel mounting plate no less that 1/2" thick, 3/4" or 1" even better, very firmly welded to your steel reciever.
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Post by cole97 on Jan 29, 2011 0:13:10 GMT -5
I'll use the thickest steel I have then! I could weld 2, 1/4 inch plates together for 1/2 inch. That will also give the barrel more threads to grip as well.
According to the caliper, the tickest I can make the steel is about 16mm thick. I think that will be fine if I can weld it nice and strong, then screw the barrel in.
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Post by devildog on May 10, 2012 23:43:10 GMT -5
It's remarkably solid and hardens fairly quickly. It can be sanded and filed and painted if the need is present. In your case the sheet metal will provide additional rigidity although the dynaglass will probably add more regidity to your sheet metal than vica versa. In the event one is doing a project where some load bearing strength is required lay metal screws or bolts the length of that which you are filiing and it will serve as a sort of rebar. This stuff when used right is pretty amazing and can generate alot of creativity and solve lots of problems. Nasty stuff to breath however so use a ventilator and work with in a open air flow area. Follow the instructions carefully as mixing it too hot with too much hardner can be problematic and even present a fire hazard. When used properly it's cool stuff. Another option I found extremely useful and versatile is Apoxie sculpt. www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=28&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1It is hard as a rock and lightweight when dry but can be sanded,filed, drilled, etc. when cured. Great for making small detail parts also. |
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Post by glymov on Oct 2, 2012 6:27:12 GMT -5
so how its going?
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Oct 30, 2012 15:20:03 GMT -5
Indeed i was wondering the same thing. Sadly i would guess that as with most these projects, burn out set in before the projects become workable. The original post was nearly two years ago now! With an airsoft project there are four daunting challenges . Make the replica visually authentic. (usually some infidelities are required). Make it strong enough to hold up for your intended use. (if ts just plinking thats very different than skirmishing). Make it functional so it shoots reliably and consistently (easier to imagine than to produce) and build it affordably (both component parts and time needed for production). Because these four goals are extremely hard to achieve my hat goes off to all who attempt it and especially to those who succeed.
Give us an update if youve made further progress or let us know where you got stuck and perhaps someone can jump in with some workable solutions.
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I think when everything's welded together, 1mm sheet will be fine. Just reinforce the areas where the barrel and buttstock will attach. Good luck! And Oddball's videos are very helpful. I used his MG42 build videos as reference as well.
