Kar98k conversion

[Echelon]

Don't they sell kar98's for between 3-400?

[ackack]

im selling a tanaka kar98 for 400 and The dboys are under 200 but they are junk

[Sgt_Tom]

The Tanaka Kar98 was originally $500. I don't think they are made anymore though so the only option is to get them used. The magazines are like $50 a piece too.

The Dboys Kar98 is not a skirmishable weapon and has very limited upgrading choices.

So yes if you don't have a lot of money to spend on a Tanaka K98 or can't even find a Tanaka K98 a custom one is your only option.

How much does it cost to make one? Simple add the price of the base gun to the price of a Dboys K98. I usually use Boneyard K98s which are about $40 cheaper then a working one.

Anyways,
ackack, just buy the rifle and use it until it breaks down. Upgrade as the parts break. It could last you a few years before it breaks for all I know.

[ackack]

thats what i was thinking of doing

[Echelon]

Awesome. Good info. Thanks guys.

[ackack]

any intrested in a tanaka kar98

[aj czarkowski]

I'm making the magazine well now and I'll put up pictures later ;D

Thanks for the help with the sights sgttom, I was going to do something completely different but your way actually sounds easier lol.

Echolon mines costs $320 exactly, I used a real metal and wood dboys kar98 so it was alot more.

And good luck with your conversion ackack

[Sgt_Tom]

Its actually quite a bit of work as the metal is tough to sand down. I am going to be making my own rear sight box out of sheet plastic on my next rifle.

[ackack]

thanks garnett: my plan is to use the uk arms m24 because it is a good stock weapon and always ready for upgrades. I am going to install a tightbore barrel to start. I am still unsure if i want the plastic or wood dboys stock? any suggestions?

[aj czarkowski]

Aug 22, 2011 21:00:01 GMT -5 ackack said:

thanks garnett: my plan is to use the uk arms m24 because it is a good stock weapon and always ready for upgrades. I am going to install a tightbore barrel to start. I am still unsure if i want the plastic or wood dboys stock? any suggestions?

I'm using the wooden dboys stock. I thought about the plastic one but the redish finish on the wood is awesome and I had to get it. The plastic would be easier but the wood isn't hard to modify with the dremel.

[ackack]

yea i did a m1 wood and plastic. I actually dont like the red color it doesnt look right to me. I would sand it and stain it a better color i would then age and weather it to give it an authentic look

[aj czarkowski]

Aug 22, 2011 21:15:23 GMT -5 ackack said:

yea i did a m1 wood and plastic. I actually dont like the red color it doesnt look right to me. I would sand it and stain it a better color i would then age and weather it to give it an authentic look

I thought I would have to stain it again but actually it wasn't as red as the picture showed I don't really plan on weathering it since it looks so nice as it is, but eventually after I use it alot it will look older by itself

Heres a picture of where the hopup is going to go

Attachments:

[aj czarkowski]

And another picture just showing the place for the hopup

Attachments:

[aj czarkowski]

Here is the hopup inside so I still need to cut out a little more but almost there. After I'm done with that I'll get started on the sights and then the magazine well.

Attachments:

[ww2kid]

What tools are needed for a conversion like this, and how acquainted should one be with the inner workings of an airsoft weapon before attempting?

[cairo1]

figure
120 for Bar 10
70-170 for DBOYS (DEPENDING ON which one yuo want, and weather you buy a broken one)
5-10 JB weld
pluss your timeAND EFFORT

assuming you allready have a dremel and a hacksaw handy.
pluss the bits you will need.

[aj czarkowski]

I haven't updated this in a while sorry been busy with school.

I actually ran into a bunch of little problems with the bolt, hopup, trigger guard, and barrel. The bolt was actually too fat to go all the way down or foreward and it doesn't fire if so, so spend 2 or 3 hours with a hacksaw cutting it just right but even though I tried to be carefull it still looks pretty bad. I also noticed the hopup is slanted becuase it doesn't completely fit into the stock where I cut it out it's too big. So eventually I fixed that having to level the bolt assembly and hopup because they also weren't aligned. The trigger guard and that other metal part under the bolt actually snapped in half somehow so I'll have to JB weld it later but that should fix it, and I had to sand down the edges of the trigger to fit into the trigger guard because the bar10 trigger was also too fat. I have no clue how that happened. and finally the barrel wasn't leveled but still haven't figured that one out.