roadwarrior
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Post by roadwarrior on Feb 4, 2012 16:17:57 GMT -5
So I got this 2nd Bat Garand used, the rear sight was missing and the Nub that holds the outer barrel in place had broken. But it had Real wood hand guards, Ferrule & Lower band. (I had already roughly fitted the Ferrule & Lowerband) Before:  Upgrades: M135 Spring G&P White Piston Guarder Pistonhead w/ bearing & squishy foam to correct the AoE Guarder Chromed Cylinder Guarder Stainless Steel Cylinder head for v7 Guarder Tappet Plate for v7 Guarder Steel Gears for V7 Matrix V3 Steel Ball bearing Spring guide SHS Air-seal nozzle Mad Bull 60 Degree Shark Hopup Bucking AIM Steel 6.03 590mm inner barrel I think that's all, might of left something out. And at 43" here she is After!:     She doesn't fire at the moment, the stock motor could only pull the M120. it had a very constant 365fps with .25's. I need a motor with a slightly shorter shaft than a normal short motor. So I have an SRC High Torque motor coming in. I would have cut the shaft on the other one I bought but none on my allens fit the set screw. I also need another Spring for the slide catch, I'm interested if any of you have one. Yes, that was the last G&P M14 Metal Body kit in the whole internet. |
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HornetWSO
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"We may not have a history, but we have a rendezvous with destiny!"
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Post by HornetWSO on Feb 4, 2012 17:35:00 GMT -5
Looks great! How did you attach the gas tube to the barrel?
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Sgt_Tom
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 4, 2012 22:09:16 GMT -5
Very nice job! One question though what is that weird piece of metal by where the selector switch would be? Are those serial numbers custom?
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daug
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Post by daug on Feb 5, 2012 6:49:24 GMT -5
very good job.....it's very nice!!!!
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roadwarrior
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Post by roadwarrior on Feb 5, 2012 11:36:17 GMT -5
@hornet, I have a piece of copper tubing that I cut sections out of so the Gas assembly could slide over it.  The copper tube is attached with LockTite Two part Epoxy.  And the tube is slightly larger in diameter so it's wedged in place, Also the hand guard is wedged over electrical tape around the outer barrel. @ Sgttom, It currently covers a hole, but it was on there when I received the rifle. The serial numbers came from the G&P Metal Body kit: www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=30430 |
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Sgt_Tom
Technical Sgt.
Combat!
Posts: 3,580
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Post by Sgt_Tom on Feb 5, 2012 12:07:39 GMT -5
I'd personally remove that piece of metal if I were you. The hole could probably be covered up in a way that isn't so noticeable. Your choice though.
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Post by Gordak on Feb 5, 2012 12:38:08 GMT -5
lookin good!
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HornetWSO
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"We may not have a history, but we have a rendezvous with destiny!"
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Post by HornetWSO on Feb 5, 2012 14:11:15 GMT -5
@hornet, I have a piece of copper tubing that I cut sections out of so the Gas assembly could slide over it. The copper tube is attached with LockTite Two part Epoxy. And the tube is slightly larger in diameter so it's wedged in place, Also the hand guard is wedged over electrical tape around the outer barrel. @ Sgttom, It currently covers a hole, but it was on there when I received the rifle. The serial numbers came from the G&P Metal Body kit: www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=30430 Another way I've found that works to lock the gas tube in place: 1 - Remove the front site 2 - drill a small hole through the top of the gas tube (under the front site) . ensure you do this with the gas cylinder in place on the barrel. 3 - drill an indent into the top of the barrel jacket 4 - put a drift screw into the hole and replace the site. this will keep the gas cylinder in place and hold the upper hand guard in place too. Best part, is that you can easily remove the action anytime you need to do maintenance. |
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Post by raffles on Feb 13, 2012 20:37:39 GMT -5
Smart solution. I may have to use that on some of my own weapons.
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roadwarrior
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Post by roadwarrior on Feb 22, 2012 20:05:20 GMT -5
Alright, small update.
With an SP130 spring it shoots a very consistent 450Fps with .20's, with .28's it shoots 380Fps with a 6Fps variance. And is quite accurate with it's stock barrel, I'm thinking of getting a 10v or 11v LIpo for less motor noise and quicker trigger response. Oh, it dose have a Mosfet, an ExtremeFire AB Mosfet.
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Post by jettalewis on Feb 27, 2012 18:11:08 GMT -5
Excellent looking job you did there. Thanks for sharing.
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