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Post by jimmiroquai on May 6, 2012 5:55:29 GMT -5
Hi all. About half of the members of our WW2 airsoft group do Japanese impressions. But as you know, there's been a huge lack of Japanese airsoft guns for game use. Last year, a sculptor friend of mine brought home a demilled Arisaka type 38 and made a fiberglass/resin cast. These casts were used extensively for the small reenactments we had of the Battle of Bataan. But still no airsoft version. The problem with the arisaka is that it's really tiny, diameter wise. Most of the donor rifle internals are too big to fit into an Arisaka stock. Also, there's been a lack of the cheaper JG Bar10 in recent times. There was also the lack of motivation on my part because i didn't do a Japanese impression. But the scratchbuilding bug bit me again and, with help from the group, we decided it was time to build one. One member donated a fiberglass replica for me to gut, and another donated an old, defective AGM MP001. Although i would've like to use the JG Bar10, it turns out, the AGM MP001 was better suited for the conversion. It's smaller than the Bar10 and has a lower profile. Yes the internals are cr@p but these are going to be replaced anyway. After doing some planning, the best route was to take the resin front end, and join it to the MP001 stock; similar to some of the M1903 builds. This was also the best way we could come up with kits.    Things were going relatively well when, unfortunately, i dropped the MP001 receiver...you know how some china clones' pot metal becomes brittle with age...well the receiver and trigger box shattered...I was about to shelve the project until this came in from my machinist:  The bolt handle came out great so i decided to go own with the project, if only cosmetic-wise. So i epoxied the receiver back together and started joining the stocks together. I also got an aluminium outer barrel for it.       It still needs a front sight and a paintjob..oh and a whole new MP001... BTW, does anyone know if the AGM L96 has the same triggerbox and receiver as the MP001? More progress soon... |
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Post by warbirdguy1 on May 6, 2012 7:05:43 GMT -5
YES! I am so happy to see one of these! I own a Type 99 Arisaka live steel and have always had an interest in them! Is this going to be a late war one or a pre-1943 with the AA Sight and intricate trinkets  |
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Post by Schmozilla on May 6, 2012 9:41:38 GMT -5
somebody finally steps up to make one good job, and not sure on the l96.
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Post by jettalewis on May 6, 2012 13:51:00 GMT -5
Glad to see that. Are any of the cast rifles going to be avaliable for others to work with?
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Post by jimmiroquai on May 6, 2012 17:48:23 GMT -5
Thanks! We're trying to develop some kits...but there will still be a lot of DIY involved if ever...
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Jun 17, 2013 1:20:13 GMT -5
whatever happened to the project per chance?
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jun 23, 2013 19:40:38 GMT -5
I still haven't found an old AGM MP001 locally so this is still as is.
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Aug 14, 2013 23:19:09 GMT -5
um, how did your machinist make that bolt?like how much did it cost and did he need a model or what?
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Post by jimmiroquai on Aug 15, 2013 6:06:57 GMT -5
I just drew the plans on paper and had the machinist mill and grind it out of mild steel. Or was it aluminum...I've since sold the unfinished project to one of my friends who does japanese impressions. Maybe he'll have more motivation to finish it than me.
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Aug 15, 2013 13:13:17 GMT -5
Alright well...I hope he finishes it.
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Post by volkssturm on Aug 20, 2013 17:37:29 GMT -5
Interesting. Just a couple observations if may. Growing up in the '50's/'60's there was still a lot of prejudice against anything Japanese. During the war there was a lot of propaganda portraying Japanese weapons as cheap and gimmicky, and inferior to American weapons, which may have made the home front feel good but I suspect the frontline troops knew better. Anyhow, Arisaka's weren't generally well regarded. This thread got me reading up on them. It seems they were actually quite good, until quality went downhill towards the end of the war. One thing that surprised me was how short they actually were, just about an inch longer than the Kar98k. In pictures they always looked very long. But in reality they looked long because they were very skinny, and they were usually held by Japanese soldiers who averaged about 5'3".
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Aug 21, 2013 18:40:45 GMT -5
They had i believe the strongest receiver. From my readings, the reason some were terrible with live ammo is because the US soldiers didn't know the difference between the trainer and actual military rifles.
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efrimann
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Post by efrimann on Mar 28, 2014 7:42:42 GMT -5
This was very good reading. I must try and find a machinist to make me some bolts, or tool up to make them myself. Do you still have the drawings? No point of inventing hot shawing water all over, as we say in Denmark.
How did you make the safety knob?
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 28, 2014 11:25:44 GMT -5
I would think a bin with selections of cupboard or drawer hardware knobs would have something readily on hand that would work quite nicely.
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efrimann
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Post by efrimann on Mar 28, 2014 11:47:27 GMT -5
Certainly. I just have to find such a bin. I'll find a girlie shop, and snoop around. In the meantime I gotta show you this: A hybrid VSR10 / KAR98 reciever. I have just meassured a VSR10 copy, the outer diameter is 1,5" to a dot, a common pipe size. Maybe in the end, we won't even have to buy the Jing Gong BAR10's, but can move right on to good sears and pistons...  |
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stuka
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Post by stuka on Mar 28, 2014 13:02:48 GMT -5
thats pretty cool, how did you make that?
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efrimann
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Post by efrimann on Mar 28, 2014 14:13:11 GMT -5
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 30, 2014 18:20:28 GMT -5
As I understand it the Arisaka bolt was pulled straight back and pushed forward without requiring the cam lock of most bolt actions. With that being the case (assuming it is?) I am intrigued with the thought of using a spring action internal from something other than a VSR base. In an other post I have discussed the cheap M1 carbine springer which even stock shoots pretty decent and has a strong bolt in place which of course is pulled straight back. I am going to see if the mechanism can hold up to a more powerful spring (as suggested in a gun review in one of the retail sites). With a tightbore barrel it was suggested that it achieved 500 FPS with 20 gram.
Perhaps these internals which are very inexpensive could be combined with the needed upgrade bits and some lminate stocks to create a suitable look with decent performance quite inexpensively. It merits study I would think. These concepts seldom bear fruit but it is something I will pursue. I have some potential parts laying around.
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efrimann
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Have anyone seen an antitank gun replica used in a softair games? If so, where? What does such a thi
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Post by efrimann on Apr 1, 2014 12:52:43 GMT -5
I like the way you think (but always have, so...) - the point is to enjoy a good bargain and the fruits of not-to-much labour. What's the brand of the M1, and we are talking of the Winchester .30? On the other hand: A lot of knowledge is building up around VSR10 and its many copies, so people can relate. The inner workings of the M1, are they smaller, making a tighter fit possible? airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p23552/NOB-Wood-Texture-frame-Air-cocking-M2-Carbine/product_info.htmlIs this the one? |
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 3, 2014 16:10:38 GMT -5
That is the cheap M1 springer carbine I was talking about. I have purchased now 20 of them and remain very impressed with them. They look quite good as is although with just minor tweaking they can be made to look much more correct as a WW2 issued carbine. This is of course discussed extensively elsewhere. The mechanism out of the box shoots decently with power over 300 FPS using 20 gram BBs.
I have disassembled one and installed a somewhat stronger spring and improved inner barrel and got the performance up over 400 FPS. My intent is to use this internal mechanism and marry it with a laminated stock to simulate an Arisaka bolt action rifle. Obviously the carbine bolt will be attached to a right angled bolt mounted about four inches further back then the carbine charging handle. This bolt will then be pulled straight back and spring forward to load and cock the rifle. The trigger will remain unchanged but I will replace the trigger housing. The stock will be thicker and deeper then the carbine stock and the ammo will be loaded from down below using a dramatically shortened carbine magazine. I am estimating that the magazine will hold 10 to 12 rounds but extra magazines for these guns are cheap $5.25 each. My concerns are how durable the newly attached bolt will prove to be and how well these cheap internals will hold up with the stronger spring. Visually it will not be perfect but it should do fine at a glance.
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Post by volkssturm on Apr 3, 2014 18:58:53 GMT -5
Coincidentally, I dropped in at the local gun shop this afternoon and they actually have a Type 99 on sale at a reasonable price. I have to say, that thing is a toothpick. I'm tempted to pick it up so I have a model to work with. There's an older thread here about building a Kar 98 springer where they built a tubular magazine. I think that's what you'd have to do with the Arisaka. Update: I dropped in today and it was still there. No one else bought it, so I take that as a sign I'm supposed to own it. In two weeks I'll have a R/S Arisaka to model from.  I like the idea of using a shotgun shell mag, if there's a way to put it in a thicker part of the stock and run a tube to where it feeds into the barrel. |
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Post by brownien on Apr 3, 2014 19:42:37 GMT -5
Magazine wise, you could use shotgun shells, like someone did with a m14-m1 garand. It would be slimmer but still give you plenty of ammo per mag
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Apr 3, 2014 19:51:56 GMT -5
I have seen that done and they do provide 25 to 30 rounds but I couldn't get the neccessary turn figured out in a way that was consistant and reliable. From my experience the more I leave actual nn feed systems in place the better luck I have. the actual Arisaka is quite thin both in height and width. If I use an actual stock (which I probably wont) I plan to split it down the center, the length of the gun and add a laminant center section to give it adequate width.
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2nd Bat
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Post by 2nd Bat on Mar 10, 2015 23:04:32 GMT -5
In pursuing this further it is obvious that the Arisaka bolt does not pull straight back but has to move straight up before being pulled back. I think a straight pull using a springer shotgun might be the way to go. I stepped back through Gryphons old $20.00 Mosin thread and given that there are some cheap but very powerful springer shotguns around (legitimate 400 FPS with .20 gram) this might be the way to go.
The challenge clearly is extending the pump rod in a way that is sufficiently strong and insuring that that action is seamless with no twists and sufficient guide channels.
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I like the idea of using a shotgun shell mag, if there's a way to put it in a thicker part of the stock and run a tube to where it feeds into the barrel.