|
Post by lrich on Dec 18, 2009 14:28:09 GMT -5
I have all 3. Haven't used them in a battle yet though. BTW, who sells 134a?? What i have found is that you can get pc duster gas, and use that, or look in the car section of walmart/etc., as 134a is used as a refrigerant in AC systems. I have found it both places. Also, most of the time, with the duster cans, if you rip off (gently of course the little plastic top nozzle (the ones i had looked like spray paint nozzles) you will expose a straight tube that will fit onto the gas magazines to fill them up. (with highly recessed inlets you may need to make an adapter, which could just be a metal rod drilled out to fit over the nozzle, and into the gas port)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Dec 18, 2009 14:22:17 GMT -5
Found it, ww2aa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=technical&action=display&thread=2554the trick to the search is, scroll down to almost the bottom, and change the "Posted within the last:" to 0 days, 0 hours (which makes it actually, infinite hours, infinite days ago), so you can find topics from a long time ago. (Also, it did help that i had seen that before and remembered that the title was "roll your own 8x57" so my search took me directly to it)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Dec 13, 2009 13:10:47 GMT -5
First of all, where is AGM relocating to that is supposedly safer? Secondly, lol using a real PPSH for cloning? Why didn't they just do that for all AS guns in the first place? And finally, yeah ARES seems like they're ahead of CYMA. They also make very expensive equipment. Their PPSH seems to be going for $440 www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=1327This begs the question though, does ARES make HIGH QUALITY stuff? Or are they like KTW and make nothing but extremely expensive wallhangers? depends who you ask, For example, i know the people, one guy who has an ARES EGLM and said he likes it, a guy who loves their g36's and a guy who bought the ares aw338 after his star version got stolen (he really liked the star version, it was killer stock), and the ares was a piece of crap, and he had to put in another ~$200 to get it to work well.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Dec 12, 2009 1:01:45 GMT -5
Looks great, just one question, where the hell does the battery go? (I thought it went in the stock, but now there is no stock...)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Dec 5, 2009 1:49:51 GMT -5
Don't know how this slipped under the radar here (actually, i saw this on a local forum, but figured it deserved a place here too), but AGM is apparently restarting business with a PPSH, no real straight news, but a picture:
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Nov 30, 2009 22:18:57 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Nov 21, 2009 0:30:40 GMT -5
^ thought those were myths...... nope, not a myth, they are real guns, but I believe they were never used in combat.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Nov 18, 2009 22:42:01 GMT -5
Luckly nobody has done this to an M1 Garand!!!! You all also forgot the "tanker Garand".
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Nov 8, 2009 15:49:24 GMT -5
The great answer is that it depends on the game. I have gone to games where knife kills were strictly banned, because they had had past bad experiences with morons and rubber knives I have been at games where knife kills were a simple tap on the shoulder as well as games where throwing the knives were allowed. So overall, you just have to find out from the field supervisor.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Nov 3, 2009 16:38:12 GMT -5
There are two answers to this: It is simple to make the rifle shoot 6mm bb's (just simply fit a new, 6mm barrel in where the 8mm is) It is not simple to make the rifle reliably chamber and fire 6mm bb's. This is because in order to use the magazines, you need to modify them to hold the 6mm bb's, then you need to modify the bolt to strip off 1 6mm bb, instead of 1 8mm bb (as the 6mm's are smaller, you risk the bolt doublefeeding 6mm's if it was made for 8mm's). After modifying all of that, you need to make sure all the loading surfaces (the feedramp, and assundry parts leading from magazine to chamber) are able to cradle a 6mm and direct it into the chamber, without letting it fly loose (as if they are designed to cradle an 8mm, the 6mm is smaller so has more wiggleroom). I don't know if you will have to do all those things, but i just thought i should point it out, as 8mm's and 6mm's have a significant size difference.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Oct 4, 2009 21:40:50 GMT -5
anywhere you can get a tightbore barrel (Airsoftgi.com, evike.com etc.) is fine. Also, some people like different tightbores, some like the madbull barrels, some don't. I do like the deepfire ones as they are stainless steel (so they are not coated) and well made, but others don't like them. Generally i find them under internal upgrades, and then inner barrels, such as at airsoftgi.com www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=31_55As for a better hop up assembly, i can't tell you where to find a good one, as i am using the stock one, but for the buckings, generally they are found in the hop up section, again under internal upgrades, such as here: www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=31_170Finally, it is up to you to shop around with different stores to find the best price, as different stores have different pricetags on different items. But be sure to add everything up and include shipping before making a final decision, because saving $2 on a bucking but paying $5 to get it shipped from a different store sucks.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Oct 4, 2009 0:28:22 GMT -5
MG42, the A4, while awesome, would just be horrid to try to use in airsoft, where so often you need to be able to move (generally speaking we simply don't have the people, the massive battlefields nor the range to set up like in real life). The mg42, while not great, is usable from more than a static position.
Would you rather see an airsoft version of a production, skimishable, m1 garand, Lee Enfield or Mosin Nagant (any variant)?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Oct 4, 2009 0:24:54 GMT -5
Yes, i measured a 455 mm barrel (standard AK length) is the perfect length and will work. I need to get one, but i have yet to, because i have spent too much already
For the hop up, the assembly itself isn't too bad in my opinion, however i believe with a better bucking (i like systema, a friend loves madbull blue) and an H-nub, it should be great.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 28, 2009 1:48:26 GMT -5
You know, i was a little disappointed with your lack of accessories, so i upped the ante a little bit (and made all of the rails attach, so in theory, if the gun/parts could support the weight, everything would attach/work). I did away with sights because if all of the scopes manage to fail, you can always use your back ups iron sights ;D. Also, that AG36 shoots subcaliber, suppressed grenade rounds, in case you wondered what the thing on the front of the launcher was (integral suppressor, just as the thompson has an integral suppressor). The LAM on the PEQ is basically a smaller backup to the PEQ, albeit in only in the visible light range. Finally, yes those are "jungle clipped" magazines
|
|
|
Soccer
Sept 24, 2009 15:50:10 GMT -5
Post by lrich on Sept 24, 2009 15:50:10 GMT -5
also, don't just do straight running, do intervals, they really help with the sprinting/jogging aspect of soccer, vs. straight running is more useful for track (and airsoft, as you have to be able to jog long distance)
Also, squats help with leg power kicking and jumping, but go for explosive movement, and higher reps not only maximum weight. That way you will be developing explosive power, stamina instead of just basic power.
Finally, depending on the position, there are other different things to practice. As goalie, I practiced sliding to get the ball, and did some work on the football sleds even, in order to practice flattening someone going for the ball when i am, but as a forward, obviously you have to practice different things to accomplish a different goal.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 20, 2009 0:05:28 GMT -5
panzer faust, more devastating charge. would you rather have 1 of any tank of your choice or a small island? to personally own? Small Island, as long as it was in a warm location. If i didn't get to choose, i would choose the tank. Would you rather have an Maus tank, or a Sturmtiger?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 19, 2009 1:13:30 GMT -5
truthfully, the only way you are going to get it to work is to sand it down, and work to sand it finer and finer at the joint until the two match, and it is indistinguishable. Other than that, i don't know of anything that will finish it, unless it is a spray on filler (but at that point, i think the sanding would be easier)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 18, 2009 15:56:33 GMT -5
First off, i put this here, because the seller didn't specify the era of the helmet, and i couldn't say for sure either, so it seems to be a better fit here than elsewhere. From what i gather, it is your standard m1 steel pot, but other than that, i can't tell if it is front seam, back seam (i can't find a definitive seam, unless it means the tiny little seam of the rim around the edge), vietnam era, WWII era, repro or authentic, or even something else altogether. As said, i have a helmet that i got with a mix of authentic Vietnam gear and more modern stuff for i think $35. Being a complete gear noob though, i just figured that the helmet is steel (or at least, some hard metal), and pretty good looking, so i figured it was worth the extra $5 to get it thrown in, as i figured i could use it as a good base for ghillie helmet. Now though, i am wondering if anyone knows anything about it, as if it is authentic or a nice repro, i wouldn't want to cover it up/permanently modify it, so could someone please give me some insight into it? It all came together (shell, liner, inner suspension system, etc., but i don't know if it was previously amalgamated ) I can take other pictures (just specify what you need to see), but these are the ones i could think of taking for now (i tried to cover all the angles). Also, the only markings are the SW 81 on the liner as pictured, and on the underside of the shell strap, a faint 29 that i couldn't get a picture of (you couldn't see it in the picture).
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 18, 2009 14:28:37 GMT -5
looks great, good job on the pistol grip, that i found is a real bastard to make, since you have to get the hole just the right size, or it cracks, but you can't make it too thick, or it looks off.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 13, 2009 0:09:06 GMT -5
Depends on the MRE< some suck, some are well, not too bad.
Bazooka or Panzerfaust (same number of total shots for each)?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 12, 2009 10:35:12 GMT -5
Kar98. In Call of Duty, i am sooo much better with the K98 . (Just kidding, although that is true, the real reason is that i have had a chance on both, and like the K98 better, as long as I get a 4x scope, not some crap 1.5x one) Would you rather have a liberator pistol, or a cheap (mid/late war) Nambu? (One has horrid accuracy, one is liable to blow up on you ;D)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 11, 2009 18:43:36 GMT -5
T34, same how about be issued a M1 grand with 100 rounds or a k98 with 700? That really depends what I am facing. Probably in general i would rather have the M1, with the ability to have a rapid follow up shot, but if i was going to have a lot of chances for sniping, i would take the Kar98 and the extra rounds probably. Would you rather have a PPSH41 or PPS-43?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 9, 2009 18:46:51 GMT -5
I would probably rather be the driver too. I like driving, but also i wouldn't want to have half of my body sticking out in battle while i am trying to man the machine gun.
Would you rather use a Thompson (we'll say m1a1 to make it about even) or MP40 in the European theater?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 9, 2009 1:00:24 GMT -5
P-51, I think it is a better plane, and also more interesting aerial battles (unless it was early in the pacific)
Alone, deep in enemy territory in the European or Pacific Theater? (I can think of reasonable ideas of why you would choose each one)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 8, 2009 1:30:46 GMT -5
So it would be best to make a replica M31 and fit the M14 inside? I would say yes, as making a replica of that, if you are dedicated, shouldn't be too hard. The reciever is nice as it is largely circular, so you can just use pipe, instead of having a horrid time trying to mill something to shape.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 6, 2009 19:51:51 GMT -5
You have never seen a thompson gearbox have you.... it won't work. The motor is in the pistol grip. agreed, it might actually be easier to use an m14 gearbox, as the motor extends into the stock at a similar angle, not the Thompson, which the motor goes into the grip. Also, since it looks nothing like a thompson, it would probably be easier to just make it all yourself, as then you wont be stuck trying to modify everything to look right, but instead will be able to start out with it looking right.
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 4, 2009 23:16:56 GMT -5
German at Stalingrad Willys Jeep or Kubelwagon or The Dingo Scout Car Jeep, I like them (and I have ridden in a Willys once, and it wasn't too bad) Reising M50 or PPS-43?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 3, 2009 15:50:36 GMT -5
Assuming you mean Kraut infantryman (not a sniper, with a kar98 kitted out for sniping), i would rather be the GI with the Garand
Would you rather be a B-17 Ball turret gunner, or a ME-163 Komet pilot?
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 1, 2009 0:18:05 GMT -5
no really easy way, but i believe you can fix that by taking it apart, and removing the selector (or at least the spring that pulls it to semi auto)
|
|
|
Post by lrich on Sept 1, 2009 0:16:31 GMT -5
normal person, i hate fanboys of anything
would you rather have a complete WWII German or American foot soldier's set (uniform, gear, weapon, the works)?
|
|