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Post by lrich on Aug 30, 2009 20:37:07 GMT -5
I agree, it is kind of screwy to sell the collection, seems more like something that should be passed down. Other than that, at least he is selling it as a set, not parting it out, trying for more money
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Post by lrich on Aug 20, 2009 23:58:45 GMT -5
i believe it shoots bb's like a standard grenade launcher, though some grenade shells launch rockets. I think they use this method since the grenades are plentiful (though not cheap) and it is easier than making a whole new firing mechanism. Not to mention, that whole warhead flying through the air could make a serious dent is someone's head.
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Post by lrich on Aug 7, 2009 0:42:44 GMT -5
So Adler, you're in Tacoma. Do you ever come out for non WWII games, like 1st Sword ones? And are you on the Tacoma forums (Tacomaairsoft.com)?
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Post by lrich on Aug 6, 2009 0:36:02 GMT -5
The most common way to get a glued on muzzle nut off is to immerse the nut on the barrel in boiling water until it gets hot, and then use pliers wrapped in a towel to ease it off. If these are not metal, then you have a problem though. As for the threads being clogged with glue and plastic, this method should get everything off and unclogged, but again, boiling water should take off any residual glue (and after that, maybe use a utility knife to pry out the tough glue, after it has been heated to soften it) Also, don't forget to depress any pins or remove any grub screws that are holding the muzzle not on there.
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Post by lrich on Aug 1, 2009 23:17:39 GMT -5
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Post by lrich on Jul 29, 2009 17:03:12 GMT -5
In 20 rd length Thompson Magazines i put 30-40 rounds in there, a few more than real life to make up for the lack of airsoft accuracy, but still almost realistic (and that is the approximate capacity for mine ;D). It depends though, some people use mid caps that hold 100+ rounds and use all of that capacity, some don't, your call.
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Post by lrich on Jul 17, 2009 23:31:19 GMT -5
Yikes, I hadn't thought of the radiator. We took off the mirrors and I'm not too worried about the windows. I don't think an airsoft gun is going to be able to break auto glass, and even if a window breaks we have extra at home. But the radiator is something I overlooked. Might have to rig up some cardboard "ammor" for the grill. I was going to build some plywood sides to extend the bed up a little, give more protection to the rear gunners. Kinda hald track like, high sides but still open. I thought hard about using the camper shell and cutting a hole in the top and making a turret, however desided this was more practical for a part time technical. Go to a junkyard for a camper lid, at least where i am, there are quite a few with cracks in them (usually in the top or one of the windows) and since it might be shot anyway, well, who cares? Just saying that, as it might be easier to remove/put on. Also, for the armor, maybe, if you can, get your hands on some mesh like for goggles, as that really wouldn't impede airflow, while providing protecting, but cardboard (depending where you place it) could stop air from cooling the radiator, giving you some problems.
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Post by lrich on Jul 17, 2009 16:33:11 GMT -5
Combining two thoughts, here... add this to a WWI thread, and you'll have to do a Chauchat... How would we make it as crappy as the original? Put $30 M16 parts in it? ;D I would think mini airsoft gun parts would be more suitable. But you would have to also run it on brand XX AAA size batteries
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Post by lrich on Jul 16, 2009 21:07:23 GMT -5
i think it could be done, only tricky thing would be to flip the hop up. Also, for more realism you would have to fatten the mags, and i don't know which curve is closer, '47 or '74 style
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Post by lrich on Jul 16, 2009 21:03:19 GMT -5
I dunno if you want to paint the truck OD, that's a lot of spray paint cans you'll be going through ;D On the other hand, that looks amazingly sweet, so does the gun swivel on all axes? And how easy is it to mount/dismount? I kind of want to do something like my jeep, but i have no good gun to mount there (now to buy some more airsoft guns
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Post by lrich on Jul 9, 2009 19:41:41 GMT -5
Well one thing you are going to run into having a problem is that the barrel is about .1 inches thick. Therefore, you wont get much ribbing to speak of before the barrel becomes too weak to do anything with. Also, to put it on a lathe you have to cut off the mounting bar (which is actually correct for an m1928) and then I was able to get shallow ribs in mine. I am next working on using some .5 inch aluminum tubing with epoxy on the outside to build it up for my second one, as that would be much lighter and less wasteful than using 1 inch bar stock and cutting half of it away. Doing it the AZR way would work, but i hope you have some big tap and die sets, because as you see, you have to thread it, which, assuming your grandfather kept most of his kit, he would probably have some of those. Good luck.
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Post by lrich on Jul 8, 2009 23:32:43 GMT -5
What tools do you have access to? With 3 inches of .75 inch PVC and 2 inches of .5inch PVC (the smaller nestled inside the larger) and a lathe to round the front, i was able to make a reasonable Cutts compensator for one that I made. Now if you don't have a lathe, making the front might be a little difficult, but not impossible. Other than making it yourself, you wont be able to find a cheap one, and even ones you find may not work, as those don't just slip on, but are bolted and/or screwed on, and the bolt is just molded on the airsoft version (for makers simplicity's sake.)
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Post by lrich on Jul 6, 2009 21:15:19 GMT -5
I have before, but it was me+dialup=triple repeating post. I haven't done three in a row that were different though, i use the edit button. And that does sound like your problem, but unfortunately, without the gun in my hands, i couldn't really tell you what the problem is. It could be anything from a crappy gear, pulling the thing back twice (had this happened when flashing worked as a second tappet plate puller), to an enlarged feed tube, allowing 2 bb's in on the cycle, an anti reversal latch that is allowing the nozzle to go forward twice per shot, etc.
I think your best bets are either bring it to an a local airsoft tech, do it yourself (mechbox.com has nice tutorials), or if you don't want to do either, sell it and use the proceeds on another gun. I personally would suggest doing it yourself, that way, you can gain valuable experience, and if you still can't get it to work, luckily for you, the MP44 is rarish, so it holds its value, even if a little screwy, and you could then sell it for a decent price, or, having gained experience but wasted no money, you could bring it to a Tech for repair.
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Post by lrich on Jul 5, 2009 15:51:48 GMT -5
That sounds like the nozzle is indeed letting two bb's in at once. That is probably the first thing i would check (it double cycling or not fully cycling). Unfortunately, you may have to chase problems, as double feeding can be caused from a dubiously shaped hop up unit (allowing 2 bbs in at once) to a broken/weak tappet plate spring thing.
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Post by lrich on Jul 5, 2009 13:55:26 GMT -5
First, to clarify, when you say it fires in semi and there are like the 3-4 shots, does that mean the gearbox cycles 3-4 times, or that the gearbox cycles once, but 3-4 bbs come out? If it is the gearbox cycling a lot, it is a cutoff lever problem, if it is the 3-4 bbs, then i will launch into that. First, make sure you hop up is all the way off, and use a cleaning rod to go down the barrel, and push any bbs that are jammed up in there out. Next, use the cleaning rod to clean the barrel (to make sure no dirt was jamming up bbs) and try again. Keep the hop up off, as sometimes that can cause jams After you have done all this, and it doesn't help, look down the feed tube, every time you pull the trigger, does the nozzle you can see right before the hop up go back and forth exactly one time, everytime? If it does, and it still wont work, i am not sure of the problem, if it doesn't, you have a nozzle/tappet problem.
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Post by lrich on Jul 4, 2009 10:10:16 GMT -5
Also, a quick note on Thompsons, they were supplied, as noted, however, due to the use of .45Cal ammunition, i don't think they weren't used very much, because the Russkies didn't make extra .45 cal ammo, and once they blew through the U.S. stuff, they didn't have any extra. Therefore, most of them would presumably stick with a gun that used ammo the Russians produced, to not risk running out of ammunition, and being stuck with a useless gun. As such i don't think many used Thompson's, or other U.S. guns using U.S. specific ammunition.
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Post by lrich on Jun 27, 2009 18:16:30 GMT -5
That looks pretty good. And compared to all the other m1's out there, it is amazing. Great job going out on a limb, and making an excellent item. I look forward to the finished product.
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Post by lrich on Jun 25, 2009 19:55:13 GMT -5
are there any other ways to upgrade it or is that it? I believe the spring is the same spring as that of a standard sniper rifle, so obviously, you should be able to upgrade the FPS. Now i am not sure on that, because i have no sniper rifle springs to compare it to at the moment, but it is longer and thinner than an AEG spring, which is what i remember a standard sniper rifle spring looking like.
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Post by lrich on Jun 25, 2009 12:35:26 GMT -5
Metal ejecting mech on poly equals you tearing through a whole lot of shells you realize right? Ya, i am making them cheap, so i don't worry about losing them in a game (once i figure it out, and bulk order the stock it will be less than 10 cents a shell, vs using metal, it wouldn't be less than 50 cents a shell, even with a super bulk order of metal rod). Torn up ones will be recycled, but if i lose them at the rate i lost the metal ones while skirmishing, i wont have to worry too much about getting chewed shells . I was thinking bio based materials, but then i used corn starch utensils, and i hated it too much.
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Post by lrich on Jun 25, 2009 12:30:39 GMT -5
Well, it sounds like it is basically required for you to downgrade the spring to stay out of trouble. As well, since i think it is shooting in the mid 400's, you will probably have to lower the FPS to at least 400, so as to play at fields, and not present a serious risk of injury.
However, it sounds like a catch-22, it is illegal to mod the gun, but it is too high to really use. When they mean mod, do they mean mod to shoot higher, or what? If it means open it up at all, that is a questionable law, but i don't know what to say, if it is against shooting higher, then, well, making it have a lower FPS shouldn't present a problem.
Personally, i would take the FPS to just about 380 or so (m115 spring probably)
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Post by lrich on Jun 25, 2009 10:56:02 GMT -5
Do with the sights? You leave them on of course! I think he is saying the barrel for the springer and the inner barrel should nest nicely within the outer barrel, so the sights shouldn't be affected. Right now i am working on a cheap solution to make shells out of .5 inch PolyPropylene Rod stock (should be less than 50 cents a shell for the first batch, cheaper as i go on) for the shells, and i am almost done with retrofitting a bolt for use with co2, and want to put a rifled barrel in there, to give it lots of accuracy (and custom made bullets ;D), and I will update when that comes online.
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Post by lrich on Jun 23, 2009 21:16:51 GMT -5
What is the top gun (not the L.A.W., but the gun below it)? I haven' t seen anything quite like it, and it looks interesting, a sort of amalgam of parts.
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Post by lrich on Jun 23, 2009 21:12:30 GMT -5
You could always make a HUTU (Hop Up Tracer Unit) to avoid any problems of not having enough tracer mags or anything. The tutorial is here (http://www.1st-sword.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=163), and i had no part in thinking this up, but i install it in my guns and it works quite well and is sweet. One trick i personally made up is to wire it into the wire coming from the trigger to the motor, so that it is trigger activated, so you never have to turn it on/off and there is no switch.
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Post by lrich on Jun 21, 2009 14:56:52 GMT -5
The Green Beret one is pretty good. All are pretty funny but I guess who ever wrote this was partial to the Army, since the other forces have dubious ones, while all the army ones are positive. Either way, its all funny
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bunker?
Jun 21, 2009 13:44:12 GMT -5
Post by lrich on Jun 21, 2009 13:44:12 GMT -5
This would make for a realistic bunker as well. Cover disintegrates under heavy fire in real life. The trouble is, what is considered a realistic amount of fire in Airsoft? Well for a bunker, that should be concrete, a realistic amount of fire would probably be at least 200 rounds in the approximate same spot (considering bunkers were many inches of concrete, and could take a ton of fire) it would be interesting to make "cover" out of foam, so like have foam fences and walls that simulate drywall and wood where only 4-5 rounds could rip it apart, while other foam was thicker and more protected to make it nearly impossible to shoot through (bunker) That would be sweet for a big game.
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Post by lrich on Jun 16, 2009 0:26:03 GMT -5
Really interesting, not only do i come onto this forum for airsoft, but for history edjimications as well (Believe it or not, some stuff i picked up off this site is great for throwing into conversations as random tidbits of info)
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Vampir
Jun 15, 2009 21:03:08 GMT -5
Post by lrich on Jun 15, 2009 21:03:08 GMT -5
That's a ridiculous idea, ridiculously awesome ;D
Now as for actually going about making it, it is semi simple, semi hard The easiest way to do this would be to buy an actual night vision monocular, and just make the rest a prop. Obviously the power pack backpack wouldn't be needed as our modern monocular are more efficient . As for the materials, some plastic tubing would probably be easy enough to form to make it look like the Vampir, and just make the inner NV scope workable through the casing. As well for the big "searchlight/illuminator" you have 2 options: Just get a piece of clear plastic and some piping, and make it look like the searchlight or, the more fancy way, get some IR LED's, and a battery pack (and the required resistors and such) and make a big searchlight that you can turn on if you want to illuminate large swaths of land (it will be invisible to the naked eye, but a big spotlight to anyone else with an IR sensitive monocular) Overall, not too hard, just a little building, and a fun project if you have a NV piece and an STG-44
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Post by lrich on Jun 14, 2009 2:42:32 GMT -5
i've found that slowly working it apart with a knife works well. You have to be patient though, as if you try to force it, instead of slowly wiggling it apart, it may break. This wont work every time, but should work most effectively.
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Post by lrich on Jun 9, 2009 23:30:39 GMT -5
You know, I wouldn't be as... disgusted... if he didn't have the 101st patch... Agreed, just too many wrong things going on there. As well what i find stupid is how he is holding the magazine. That is a recipe for disaster in most guns, by knocking the magazine, and in turn bullets, out of alignment with the bolt when it goes to strip a cartridge off, possibly causing a jam/serious problem. Magazine well=ok, magazine=big no-no (obviously in airsoft this doesn't happen, and in real steel it wont always cause a problem, but why risk it? And in airsoft, don't practice bad form)
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Post by lrich on Jun 3, 2009 15:56:44 GMT -5
The friend could break it down into minimally recognizable pieces, and ship each one separately, that way they may not even notice it, and if they do, if they only hold up one piece, you are less likely to be totally screwed (and they might hold it up for less time)
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