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Post by lrich on Jun 3, 2009 14:00:53 GMT -5
Yeah, it seems to be a good fit for this project. More like $20 though. If you need one, I think Canning still has mine . No, but really, they're on Shorty USA for $20.00 or so. if he is in the UK it might be a bit more expensive. As well, i would think a plastic one would be easier to work with, but i got the metal one for realism (we'll ignore that funny sewing machine sound everytime i pull the trigger) and for strength. Depending on what gun, you may have to shave a lot of material off to get it to fit. When i am finished i will post pictures (mostly because that is when i will be able to make a complete tutorial) If you just want to make the welrod, then any spring pistol (the cheapest but best) would do. Finally, Kershmallow, you should come out some time, we hold some of the best WWII events (battlesim ;D)
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Post by lrich on Jun 2, 2009 17:17:52 GMT -5
I actually live in the U.S.A. almost the farthest state from the U.K (Washington State) and this is the m1911 i got: pointact.com/prod_YT385_888_44.html I think it is UK arms, but i lost the box so i can't say for certain. I am also using a DE m9 not a glock, but i think the internals are all essentially the same, so that wouldn't be a problem. Right now i am in the process of cutting an mounting, but at the moment i have finals, so in turn it is on hold for a bit. And i would say it would be much easier to simply use a spring pistol instead of making an AEP bolt, as springers are purpose built bolt action (and usually slightly higher FPS, [~300 vs. ~230] if that matters to you)
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Post by lrich on Jun 1, 2009 16:51:00 GMT -5
how interesting, it's magazine is actually the pistol grip and it looks about the size of an m1911 magazine with grips on it, how convenient (i see it is a .32 colt, but it looks close enough, just put a little less padding on the front/back of the mag). The body would be either one inch ID ABS (since i believe the OD is 1.26 inches, measurements gotten from here: www.timelapse.dk/thesilencer.php) or 1.25in OD ABS. Then just fit a barrel in there (probably use the springers) and the cocking parts. Then i would atach a rod to the cocking mech and to a disk on the back (like the real one) and foam/cotton the entire thing. Since there is so much room for foam/cotton, it should be plenty quiet. I would take care of the grip by cutting a small block of polypropylene to guide the magazine and epoxying it to the bottom (like the real one) and slapping on epoxy on the magazine to fill out the grip part and sanding it (and breaking out the heavy duty respirator/goggles as i'll be using lots of the really fine filler) The magazine=grip is pretty ingenious too, as it makes it easy to store. Get a few of these and a few of those mini HFC nbb's and i could volunteer to be the hostage from hell ;D
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Post by lrich on May 31, 2009 19:04:09 GMT -5
Perfect, sounds like a fun little project (a little aluminum tubing, same polypro blocks for the grip/mag and your done), and i have the springer parts for it after i gut my springer 1911 to make it an AEP ;D The other option of course would be to make it NBB, but then it wouldn't be realistic and bolt action.
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Post by lrich on May 31, 2009 17:07:14 GMT -5
Wow, for whoever makes that, that makes the entire thing about 90% easier to get the scale of everything correct. Simply take the biggest picture you can find, and then blow it up to the correct size. Then you will have the scale of all the other parts just right. An intriguing thing i noticed is that the stock folds down to make an angle, i would have thought it would have just stuck straight out to make it easier, but i guess not.
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Post by lrich on May 31, 2009 13:15:53 GMT -5
Kind of a Unhappy Will Ferrel/Happy Rudolph Hess. Change up the hair, and change the expression and you are right.
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bunker?
May 31, 2009 13:15:38 GMT -5
Post by lrich on May 31, 2009 13:15:38 GMT -5
paper mache might actually be easier, the only problem is, depending on how you are using it, you may have to figure out a way to waterproof it, as all the paper mache stuff i have made has ended up melting when it got wet, usually by my brother being a dick (which means either i did it wrong or you would need some serious clear coating to keep it from melting)
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bunker?
May 31, 2009 0:22:14 GMT -5
Post by lrich on May 31, 2009 0:22:14 GMT -5
When you say recommend an epoxy, i assume you mean, a type/brand? As for that, i am a loyal west system user. It resists water, a little fire (that was an oops), drops, etc. Here is their website: www.westsystem.com/ss/ I personally have the set up with the mini pumps: www.westsystem.com/ss/pumps-and-metering-equipment as it makes it infinitely easier to pump when i don't want to do a massive batch. For your purpose you may not need them (as you will be mixing lots), but i would suggest getting them for when you want to mix small amounts and do touch ups, etc. Then i would use this chart to figure out your exact needs: www.westsystem.com/ss/product-selection-chart/ I use the 206 hardener, for a good compromise the time before it sets and not having to wait forever. You might want the extra slow (209) for you massive bunker coating batch, as it will give you more time to spread it before it becomes gummy. I also generally turn to microfibers for adhesive characteristics: www.westsystem.com/ss/403-microfibers/High density filler for strength www.westsystem.com/ss/404-high-density-filler/and low density filler for taking up space/thickening the mixture. You may also want to throw in a grey pigment (i have mixed in straight up paint before with the epoxy, and it works decently, using their pigments is better, but costs more) as you will get either a brownish or whitish coating (depending on what fillers you use) Finally, use this tool to find where to buy them: www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/Be warned, this is a bit expensive, especially the resins, however, the resin and hardener last forever, while you go through the fillers decently quick when using it to form a "skin" but thankfully, the fillers are a bit cheaper. As an idea, if you plan on sandwiching multiple pieces of foam together, here is personally what i would do: Mix up a batch of epoxy with the 209 (extra slow hardener) and mix it with microfibers for adhesion. Leave it a little runny (like runny ketchup) and spread a thinnish layer between each piece of foam you want to smack together. Then, slap them together, and use drive a few nails/pins through the pieces so that they wont slide around across each other. Also, play the various flat sheets you want together to get the desired length, and get some thin sheetmetal strips and epoxy them on the foam, spanning the two sandwiches (for strength) Once you have build up the required thickness and length, use the rest of the previous batch, and mix up lots of it (enough to cover the foam boards) and make it thick (like soft serve ice cream) using particularly lots of the low density filler (it will be a lot easier to shape, and a decent bit lighter, as well as barely less durable, as in, still able to take some bbs, than if you use the high density stuff). Then using your big putty knife, spread it all over the wall. You will only be able to do the top and sides, so what i suggest is letting the top/sides of A dry, and then mixing a new batch of epoxy for the next side, and finishing A's back while you do B's front, then let B dry, then C's front B's back, you get the idea, until you are finished with all of them (depending on how many you have to do, it might make more sense to do half, let them dry, flip them over and do their other side while you do the first side of the other half). Finally, some things on epoxy: don't let it dry on anything you don't want it to be on forever, as it is a bastard to clean off. (Possible, but a ton of trouble when it is dry) It has a potlife, which means that if you leave it for too long, it will harden, and be unusable. That is why you figure out which hardener, based on how long you want it workable. When mixing big batches it takes longer to harden, but it still will. Any excess you mix and leave out will harden in the same amount of time as the stuff you used, therefore, tailor the amount you make to how much you use, and obviously, use it while you can. Unmixed it has an indefinite shelf life. Big thing:Epoxy, especially large quantities can create lots of heat, therefore, don't put it near anything flammable. While i have never actually had epoxy light anything on fire, my dad did manage do return to a project and have char marks on some paper that he had laid his project on. If he had had just a little more epoxy, he could have lit it on fire, potentially causing some problems. In that sense, i usually leave my projects to dry in the middle of my concrete floor in my garage, to prevent anything bad from ever happening (i figure, if i don't do it, that will be the one time something bad happens)
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bunker?
May 30, 2009 23:28:16 GMT -5
Post by lrich on May 30, 2009 23:28:16 GMT -5
I have found that epoxy makes a great shell over the insulating foam (and as a bonus, doesn't eat it) Generally, for what you are doing, i suggest getting some of the stuff that you mix your own, and doing just that. It is much more cost effective for a big job like that. I would probably use the biggest putty knife you have to spread it on there, and smooth it out. After it dries you can sand it, cut it, paint it etc.
While deacon does have a point that wood would probably be more durable, i can understand the reason you would want foam (put 3-4 layers together and it gives it a nice thickness like a bunker, and if you spread the epoxy, but don't sand it, it will give the outside a nice bumpy poured concrete shape)
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Post by lrich on May 29, 2009 17:17:44 GMT -5
Two important things to check: 1. the magazine catch, look into the magwell and press the mag release button/let it go, can you see a little protrusion move out where the mag would be and into where it would be? (That is the internal mag catch explained in the most basic sense, a flashlight can help you see, and i forget where the little thing is located on an MP40, but just look in there, and you should see it, but be sure to look carefully, as it isn't that big) 2. The magazine catch hole on the magazine. There should be a little cut out on the side of the magazine, somewhere near the top. Looking at that cut out, are the edges sharp and defined or worn and rounded? If they are worn and rounded, then you have a problem, if they are sharp and defined, this isn't the problem. Other than that, i am not sure what the problem could be, and would have to hold it/look at it to tell.
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Post by lrich on May 19, 2009 18:40:20 GMT -5
The only major thing i could think of was to cut the cocking lever down to the right size, and put the upper receiver back on (it looks funny without the rear sight and stuff), although you might want to cut it a little to match the m1 upper better. Overall, a great start into unknown territory.
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Post by lrich on May 18, 2009 19:22:07 GMT -5
You sure have made it seem simple lrich. Another possibility is to pursue this from the Sten side, rather than the Mp40. (Modifying the sten body and completely redoing the rear section). Its too bad your busy with other things. I know of two sten specialists, maybe I can get their opinion or help. Polski Well it looks a lot easier than my last project (full metal B.A.R.) which I'm still working on (and seriously questioning my sanity about it) ;D A sten would actually probably be easier to modify, including the fact that those mags look very much like Sten magazines, but i suggested the mp40 route purely because there are plentiful airsoft mp40's (in particular, boneyard ones ripe for being chopped up), but if you had a sten that would certainly help with the upper reciever, mags and magwell (rotate the magwell a bit, but not too hard).
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Post by lrich on May 16, 2009 22:29:19 GMT -5
Very interesting looking gun, and actually, if i didn't have 20 other things on my plate, i would be very interested in doing this. Here is how i would do it: 1. Get a boneyard MP40 from kapowwe, for the gearbox, and hop up 2. Use the stock locking mechanism, but get some 1/16 or 1/8 inch aluminum for the arms (as the Blyskawica arms are fatter, but the folding mech and stock looks about the same) 3. Get some Aluminum tube at, 1.5inch diameter? (the diameter of the receiver would be important to find out) and an aluminum block (1.5inches wide by 7inches long by 3 inches high about and square AL tube that would fit the magazine) 4. Cut the AL block and tube to fit the gearbox, as well as making the charging handle out of an Al rod and sheet 5. Get a car spring for the recoil spring 6. Final fitting and working. If you are lazy, use mp40 mags, if you are really motivated, make your own (which is a bitch if you want to mass produce plenty, I've done it, really nice, but takes a while to design them)
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Post by lrich on May 15, 2009 20:45:39 GMT -5
That's not real wood. Its the plastic stocks wrapped in an automotive grade film that duplicates the look of burlwood. I saw these two guns on ebay by the way. Personally (and this is just one man's opinion) I don't care for the look. Ok, that explains how impressively exactly like the furnished stock parts those parts look. Good job nonetheless, it looks very realistic. Also, as a combat gun i wouldn't like the look (too flamboyant) but for a wallhanger/display gun it gives it a unique/flashy look.
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Post by lrich on May 15, 2009 0:29:07 GMT -5
I just noticed, the girl with the A1 looks like she wants to be a rockstar. Especially when she is on her knees she looks like she is holding a guitar more than a gun
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Post by lrich on May 14, 2009 22:59:11 GMT -5
wow, very nice job. Just wondering, did you use the airsoft original buttplate assembly? Because when i made a wood stock i had problems with the wood cracking when i tried to get it to fit, although it might have just been the wood i was using.
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Post by lrich on May 14, 2009 22:54:23 GMT -5
Honestly... it might be cheaper to go buy a box or two or 8mm for a sporting goods store for your "dummy" ammo. Live bullets are pretty harmless without a gun. Actually, also if you are careful, you can deactivate them. Simply take the bullet, lightly clamp it, use a tool that wont damage the bullet to take the bullet out. Empty the powder and use a punch to fire the cap. With proper precautions this isn't that hard or dangerous. Of course, this is to be done at your own risk with proper precautions. Never have the bullet pointing towards you, always in a safe direction, as there is the small possibility you could create a spark and fire the bullet. Treat the bullets as if they were in a live gun and follow the same safety procedures. I would rather have someone do this than keep live bullets in a belt, as there is a distinct possibility that one could get hit by a rock and go off, and at close range, that could be fatal.
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Post by lrich on May 10, 2009 21:24:01 GMT -5
i thought i detected tactical socks for extra sneaking advantage. Its great to get some girls involved in the sport, as where i am, there are none. It kind of makes airsoft seem to be some crazy macho psycho sport when it isn't. Also, great to see more people who don't take airsoft too seriously ;D
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Post by lrich on May 9, 2009 0:48:25 GMT -5
while that would be sweet oberst, 2 problems: 1. That would cost an insane amount of money (at a cheap $1 per shell, that would cost as much as the gun to have a reasonable amount of ready to fire ammunition (~400 rounds)) 2. The shells wreak havoc with accuracy. When i opened up the Dboy's the problem with the shells was that every time the bb was pushed out, the shell would give it a different spin. The hop could negate this a little, but not all the way. There have been shell fed guns, but the reason the majority aren't shell fed is the price of the shells. I would think dummy belts with a flexible tube of bb's running down the middle would be the best.
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Post by lrich on May 4, 2009 0:39:32 GMT -5
I am with waffenbruder, i have been hearing reports of most Chinese factories being raided. The one thing i wonder about is the fact that there seems to be no event that would cause this (unlike the olympics for example)
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Post by lrich on May 2, 2009 23:35:17 GMT -5
I think this may have died due to factory raids, and Cyma realizing that it wouldn't sell very many (if any), although i can't guarantee that (although i hope that happened, until they can come back with a more realistic version)
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Post by lrich on May 2, 2009 17:22:27 GMT -5
Massive Necropost, please, check the dates, otherwise it brings up outdated information which contributes to misunderstandings on the boards. (Everyone does it, so everyone needs a friendly reminder once in a while, just pointing this out)
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Post by lrich on Apr 25, 2009 1:10:08 GMT -5
i have, its safe to use them, provided that your FPS is safe with .2g's. They wont magically be more powerful, but remember, 400 FPS with .43's is a ton more than 400 FPS with .2's, so your FPS may drop off dramatically, depending on what you are using now.
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Who
Apr 20, 2009 20:55:23 GMT -5
Post by lrich on Apr 20, 2009 20:55:23 GMT -5
I must say, i kind of took an Airsharp turn. I was originally going to be making a cheap almost m1928 (just slightly not, but only like $160 for the working gun, since they are simple), but i am more than likely going to just sell the two i made, end it there, and turn my attention to interesting one offs (25mm, sniper rifle/grenade launcher anyone? ). The real problem with getting into custom gun fabrication (at least for me) is that you are never guaranteed to have a customer base next week. I was ~50% through making CAD drawings to machine an MP44 when the AGM one came out, and i simply wouldn't be able to compete. So it is hard to start to make a custom gun, to put all that time and effort just to see everyone who wanted one disappear. That is simply why i am going to finish and sell the two i made, use the money to reinvest in making custom one offs, and selling those when i get bored. The other problem is the balance between accuracy, cost, and workload. For example, if i was to make a superbly detailed m1928, it would probably cost almost as much as the MM or AZR ones and take me forever, and it wouldn't be worth it. But if i go for less accuracy, it will be much cheaper, but not accurate to the real steel, so some people wont want it. This whole debate rages on, and discourages many people from entering.
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Post by lrich on Apr 16, 2009 22:00:37 GMT -5
they look like the James boom, which supposedly worked well, as it has the bb's set up to fly in all directions like a real grenade, only danger is getting the holes clogged up. If they were in stock i would get them. ehobby has them too, but still out of stock shop.ehobbyasia.com/snicker-360-gas-powered-mkii-grenade.html
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Post by lrich on Mar 28, 2009 15:48:53 GMT -5
Regular 97s , haven't heard or read about sawed off 97s used , why saw off a pump action shotgun? when you saw off the barrel you also have to shorten the magazine , limiting your ammo in the mag. If you cut down just to the ammo tube you won't have decreased the ammo capacity. The only reason i could see the cut down version being used by anyone would be concealment, or in the military, as a breaching, bunker clearing weapon. Yes it would kick horribly, but at that range, you really don't need any appreciable accuracy, and by removing all excess weight, it would be easier to carry. I understand this is the exception, not the norm, but just throwing the idea into the mix.
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Post by lrich on Mar 11, 2009 20:40:17 GMT -5
I have a bridgeport milling machine, very similar to the grizzly, although in my opinion a little more heavy duty. It is very similar to this one, www.bpt.com/index.asp?pageID=64&cID=20, although older. It was bought at auction though, so we got it for a low price (i am not sure exactly the price though). Despite its age, it remains very precise though. Also, all the bits i use come from Travers tool company, and they work rather well. As for a CNC machine, i have an old Mitsubishi Comet "Mighty" that works rather well, although i program in DOS. It is much bigger, (and concurrently much more expensive), with a 24X18" or 24x60" workspace depending if you span the two tables than that machine though. Overall, i find that the CNC machine is great, it takes a while for you to learn to work it, but once you program, you can spit out parts rapidly, which is rather nice, compared to hand making one at a time. The nice part about the milling machine is that you can make prototypes without taking all the time to program something, and then having to scrap the program when you find out it doesn't work. If i had to chose one, i would say if you want to focus on selling stuff, go with the CNC, if you want to make stuff for personal use, go with the Milling machine, it is much easier to modify existing parts, and make one off pieces.
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Post by lrich on Feb 23, 2009 20:28:40 GMT -5
...The CYMA M1A1 is a good gun, but I can guarentee that a TM will outlast a CYMA. If you have the money I'd highly suggest getting the TM version, or selling the CYMA down the road. Stock that is true, but overall, i believe the Cyma will have a lower total cost of ownership though. This is because the Cyma is half the price (or less) and with that, you can replace the entire gearbox with very high quality parts, when the original parts break (and they last a very long time in the interim). Also, the Cyma has fixed the barrel breaking issue to some degree, and the barrel can break even without slings, if you were to, for example, trip and fall and hit the barrel on a rock.
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Post by lrich on Feb 19, 2009 21:03:36 GMT -5
You have a Thompson for me too lol. I am the one who bought your kar98. The Stg, I think I am going to wait until they come out with an enhanced version, an updated model from the first one. Maybe the second one will have trademarks too. I forgot about the trademarks on the STG, i don't know if this one has them (i have neither had a confirmation of a yes or a no), but i hope it does. However, the STG doesn't have big glaring trademark spots, unlike for example, the g36 or m16, where it is obvious if they are missing. As for the first version being the breaky one, it probably will be, but i still want to buy it as soon as possible, as fixing can be half the fun (or all the headache) ;D. If the gearbox is crap, Systema Revolution!! (With maybe a lil' dremeling)
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Post by lrich on Feb 19, 2009 20:07:00 GMT -5
eddie started the shameless self promotion ;D For an easy way to make an acceptable m1928 (if you have the patience, steady hands and/or machines), i did a "little" write up of how i made mine. ww2aa.proboards45.com/index.cgi?board=technical&action=display&thread=4984For Drums, your three options are: make your own from a springer drum, contact m1928 owners and beg for them to sell you one, wait for me to get on spring break and make a conversion kit for a high cap/make your own (yes, more shameless self promotion, and don't count on this one, as it wont be until at least until i start this )
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