Browning M1919 30 Caliber Machinegun

[DeB]

The Styrene is like polystirene but more strong and without the little balls... Then I don't know really well the Chemistry of Styrene...

TommyGunner: You are a modeller for Revell??? Really?? Wow! What scale?? I'm a Small Scale modeller 1/72
Let's visit my site www.unosettantadue.net !!

@pete Thanks for the link!!!!

Bye bye!

[Tough Ombre]

styrene is more of a plastic, i know i use alot of thinner sheets for my models, too mod them.
-Cary

[click]

Ok thanks guys.

Click

[TommyGunner]

Alright so I have been looking at the different ways of constructing an M1919 body and I have decided that once I have compleated the design that I would make available instrcutions on how to make thses.

They would also include patterns to use to make the major components of the body.

Would anyone be intersted in this.

TommyGunner

[DeB]

me... thank you!
I have the ppsh41 drawings

[2ndranger]

Yes! Count one for me!

Schutze

[TommyGunner]

Great, the idea is to not only include detailed instructions but also some diagrams and photos of the 30cal.

Plus I will also be including full sized patterns to be used to trace on the shapes of the sides, top, bottom, front and back plates to the material you choose to make your 30cal body out of.

Now the plans may not be available until mid to late April because I first need to finish the 30 Im building now as the prototype.

Concerning the prototype 30cal, I have been experimanting with making simple boxes out of styreen, and then wood. I have found that in order to make shure the styreen outer panels for the 30cal body are tough enough to withstand field use I was forced to build a full wooden frame to attach the panles too, this proved to be time consuming and I was still unsure as to its long term durablility mainly becuase of all the joints that have to be made then connected and the small contact surface between the joints.

So I then decided to use wood, simply becuase of the massive amount of contact surface between the joints that I can acheave with solid wood sides. I then experimented with a "secret" sanding and sealing process that is very resistant to damage and when finished and painted gun metal/black looks just like metal. (Ill tell you all what it is when the project is finished)

TommyGunner

[Tough Ombre]

Sounds good. if i can get my hands on some styrene, I could start something. Where did you get it at?? Maybe a little competition, is in store?? lol
-Cary

[jimseery]

I'm very interested. May I suggest that sheet aluminum may be an option. Out here (Colorado) many scrap dealers let you wander the yard for what you want. A lot can be done with aluminum and pop rivets.

[TommyGunner]

Aluminum sheets was definatly an option from the start but the thing is that not everyone has the tools required to make a 30cal out of sheet aluminum, the material Im using is mainly for reproductions sake, everyone has an exacto knife, hammer, files, saw, wood glue ect... thus it will be easy to make, although I dont see why someone that can work with metal couldnt use the instructions to make a metal verision either, I guese it will be up to the builder to decide what material they want to use, I choose wood though.

Also M-14 shure lets make it a contest, that would be fun.

TommyGunner

[Tough Ombre]

Ok, lets just hope i finish my M1 so i can do it... and i gotta find sheet styrene.. lol I also got the m14 to use so.. there!!! lol btw if you need dimensions or a pic or anyhting like that of the gearbox/ barrel/ motor assembly ill help ya out.
-Cary

[Tough Ombre]

You know what come to think of it.. i might not be able too.. i dont know if i will have the funds nessecary

[TommyGunner]

Yeah I shure could use dimensions, since I doubt Ill be buying an M-14 here anytime soon, Ill proabably have the body built as a prop then add the internals, but lets try and get these done by the event so we atleast can have one 30cal to use to counter the Germans Mgs.

TommyGunner

[Tough Ombre]

yup i will try my hardest. i might even have a friend who will be willing to let me use his m14 as a 30 instead of him being a BAR man.
-Cary

[Tough Ombre]

L 32" H 5" W 2 1/2" and then here is a pic of the reciever grouping ( BTW the bolt can be taken off and so and all the extra on the barrel.





hope this helps
-Cary

now.. where you get that styrene?? lol

[biged]

These guys plasma cut browning silhouettes.
I'm sure if you contact them they would cut a full size one.

shop.ironcreationsllc.com/splashPage.hg

///ed///

[TommyGunner]

Actually there is somthign there that I might decide to get, turns out they have the pistol grip type handles/backplate part for only $24 thats deffinatly in the pricerange of this project.

TommyGunner

[Gordak]

I just got my .30 in the mail, $299 bux for a real ww2 .30, and when you take the barrel and bolt out, the thing ways less than half its full weight. seriously that is CHEAP! and you can probably sell the bolt and barrel.

they say u need a side plate, but here is what is you can do

get it welded, it would cost 30 bux tops, once its welded together, you can make the missing side plate out of plastic and have tons of room for your airsoft guts.

for the amount of time it takes to make a belivable .30 replica, this kit is so worth it!
-Gordak

[2nd Bat]

There is a market for the barrel and bolt. Before I sold the M1919 to Schmitty for his marvelous conversion I traded the uneccessary guts for the handle and muzzle cone of a M19191A6 as well as a few other small bits and parts I needed. The barrel which we kept could have easily been replaced to reduce the weight and could have been sold. Perhaps schmitty or Gordak could provide the measurements for the 30 cal body Length width and height as well as barrel length for those tackling this project.

[TommyGunner]

Alright heres what I plan on doing, I am going to continue with the 30cal project by making the entire gun, but since that will cost little or nothing to me I also am going to look into ordering that kit, Ill have to start saving up for it but from what I have heard here its worht getting.

Now Gordak you said its missing its sideplates?

Could you post some pictures of the kit for us to look at. And also where di you buy the kit from?

TommyGunner

[biged]

Side plate is usually missing because it governs the firing system - fully auto operation or semi-automatic.
I was warned when I was building my .50 cal about making an exact replica of the sideplate. The ATF may come calling if it is a perfect repro. In Massachuesettes it's a big no-no...
Alot of .30/.50 owners make their sideplates. Riveting the gun togather is the hard part.

I am going to continue with the 30cal project by making the entire gun, but since that will cost little or nothing to me

TommyGunner, You never fail as long as you don't give up.

///ed///

[2nd Bat]

Aluminum angle bar is available in one inch deep strips that can be cut to whatever length you need. It would seem to me that epoxy glued on the inside of thick styrene as well as glued and pop rivetted to the outside corners of your box shoud creat a very solid and stable 30 Cal receiver group. I like the idea of styrene due to it's light weight strength and pliability with household tools. Components like the barrel and barrel shroud could obviously be made with PVC pipe and for authenticity items like the muzzle cone and handle as well as the pistol grip and stock (should you decide to make a M1919A6 could be actual parts bought seperately

[Gordak]

.30 parts kit update, the thing even holds together without the side plate! My current plan is to bolt it together and use a self made plastic plate (cosmetic only), An AGM mp40 box would probably fit, so Im thinking its totally possible to make a VERY cheap .30.

-Gordak

[2ndranger]

How cheap are we talking? lol.

Schutze

[TommyGunner]

Hmm, an AGM Mp-40, well that sounds good, but there is still one probelm that is perplexing me how can mags be fit inside, or more importantly how is the gun going to be loaded, I was thinking an M-14 frankin mag cut apart so that it is perminatly mounted inside the gun with the winder sticking out the bottom and a reservour that feeds into it being loaded from the top of the gun.

Any ideas on this issue.

Also I have been forced to put a hold on my 30cal project, things shave started to pop up and I siply do not have the time in my schedual to deveote to making the 30 along with my other rifle that needs to be finished by the event. I may not be able to start it up again until April.

M-14 try your best to have yours ready for the event seeing as your our only chance of having an MG.

TommyGunner

[biged]

Box mag, fed by a #4 screen door spring. Modify a Futaba S148 servo to rotate 360 degrees. Epoxy servo wheel to the side of the winding wheel of a hicap. Wire trigger switch directly into the servo. Connect one end of the feed-spring to the hicap guts and the other to the hopup chamber. You can make the connections with 7/16ths ID clear poly tubing. You can also uncoil the spring and insert 5/16ths hobby brass which holds like iron.
You can also add a primer switch to the setup along with a diode and 9v battery so you can prime the gun - it avoids dry firing.
I made the above setup for my M60ED w/V3 box.

I have'nt finished the link for the how-to on box mags but PM me if you need help. I've made several box mags & tall-boy hybrids from real-steel.

///ed///

[Tough Ombre]

thats a good idea. Im going to try, i now have the gun, and the authority to use it (my friends gun) though, i gotta get off my ass and finish my m1 conversion (just gotta spend the money) I will probably work on both guns at the same time. I really need to find some dang sheet styrene ( i gotta go buy it lol) Im thinking i can get it from Lowes or something. The hard part wont be fitting the gun, it will be the details for me, since i really dont have the money to buy real steel parts i will have to fabricate it all. I plan on having it done by April, but if not, i have a BAR belt for him, so we will atleast have that lol. Also like you said TG, i plan on making a link so that the gun only works when its got a belt inserted.
-Cary

[Gordak]

I got my kit, $299.00 I think thats an awesome price




then you sell the parts you don't need and it gets even cheaper!

-Gordak

[mikkel]

Could anyone please give me the basic measurements off this thing?

Barrel length and diameter, how long the "muzzle brake" is. BOdy length, heigth and width. Just all the basic ones, we most likely won't get every detail 100% correct, so the smallest details doesn't really matter

[TommyGunner]

Man does that look good, the hell with making one, Ill just go the extra mile and buy the kit and make it operational, then use the parts from the reall 30cal as patterns to make another 30cal from wood.

Looks like Ill make this a project for myself over the summer (dotn have the $ as of now), along with my planned Japanese Arisaka type98 infantry Rifle.

Tommygunner