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Post by KEP on Mar 14, 2007 13:51:24 GMT -5
Hi i tryed this today and yes i'm a noob and it all sounded so simple...
I followed the post and opened the gearbox and *BOOM*
and then i had all the parts on my floor... and i dont have any clue on how to
assemble the things again...
Can someone please show me (with pictures) how i assemble the gearbox again i'll be very glad... step by step please...
i'm totally lost here guys... hope any1 will help me...
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TommyGunner
Staff Sgt.
Hackjob Mauro
1st Marine Division, 1942
Posts: 2,265
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Post by TommyGunner on Mar 15, 2007 14:59:18 GMT -5
How come you had to open the gearbox?
Tommygunner
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Post by CharleyNovember on Mar 15, 2007 15:12:15 GMT -5
I'm assuming he took out the selector switch and related parts in the mechbox.
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Ersatzjack
Corporal
"That silly Franz... he thinks we are winning."
Posts: 1,093
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Post by Ersatzjack on Mar 15, 2007 17:36:04 GMT -5
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Post by KEP on Mar 16, 2007 2:04:09 GMT -5
allamericandan: you'r answer is correct!  Ersatzjack: Thank you very much for the link... It's just that there must be a right way to assemble the gearbox... Does any1 know where i can get a guide on how to assemble it? |
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Post by maus on May 23, 2007 17:30:29 GMT -5
In preparation for the highspeed treatment, I opened the GB last night. Here is what it looks like with everything where it is supposed to be.  I hope that photo helps anyone not familiar with a gearbox out. My upgrade will be a systema HS motor, ballbearing bushings, flat HS gears, V3 spring guide with bearing, and a chrome plated cylinder. That should get the bbs downrange in a hurry. ;D I am trying to find a suitable replacement for the barrel and hopup, but thus far have had little success. |
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Post by imaheretic on May 23, 2007 18:42:38 GMT -5
Marui AK hop unit will with some modification and thus any AEG barrel.
Nick
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Post by recoilrob on May 24, 2007 18:17:43 GMT -5
Since upping the power with a Systema M120, I have been pleasantly surprised to find the hop-up working well now. My groups @ 27feet (across the living room into dining room shooting range) have shrunk from three inches to around an inch since the upgrading. Maybe these guns only need a bit more oomph and not a barrel/hopup upgrade? At long distance, the 'flyers' have greatly reduced and most shots go straight and far with the hop set properly.
Oh, the Fake Bake looks awesome and I'm going to give it a go soon!
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Post by chill on May 25, 2007 9:02:26 GMT -5
Hi guys.
Can somebody tell me what is the correct gears initial position for this gearbox? Should the sector gear be in position as on the pic made by maus? I tried that and unsuccessfully.
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Post by maus on May 25, 2007 17:13:05 GMT -5
The photo I posted was taken as soon as the gb was opened. The positions of the gears should be as shown. If there is a timing issue, it is possible the loop on the tappet plate return spring is not far enough down on its post. This will lead to the end of the tappet plate "twisting" up and the knob on the gear missing it completely. This happened to me with my G36, and it was a simple fix.
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Post by chill on May 29, 2007 15:40:22 GMT -5
Thanks, maus, I found the source of constant gears stuck - half dead battery that could only half cook the spring. The position of gears was fine. Though your advise sounds as very valuable, will try to keep it for some time later  |
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Post by barcelonablom on Aug 15, 2007 6:48:59 GMT -5
How do you get the worn metal look on the MP40?
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Post by ck on Aug 15, 2007 8:15:35 GMT -5
Very easy... Just file or go over the body a little bit with steel wool or something similar.
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Post by barcelonablom on Aug 15, 2007 10:09:29 GMT -5
ok thanks
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Post by p51 on Sept 19, 2007 23:12:25 GMT -5
Here's my effort, wish I'd spent just a little more time finishing on the hole once I filled it (I used Sqadron model body putty) but I think it's not all that bad. As someone already pointed out elsewhere, it looks kinda brown, but it's pretty reddish in real life and besides, bakelite came in several different base shades depending on when and where it was made... I still need a sling for it, though.  |
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2nd Bat
Master sergeant 
Posts: 11,813
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Post by 2nd Bat on Sept 20, 2007 0:29:24 GMT -5
Nice job, nice picture, the Hitler Youth Knife is a nice touch. Someone makes a great replica of it but I can't remember who?
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Post by p51 on Sept 20, 2007 22:53:50 GMT -5
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Post by odinfish on Oct 1, 2007 7:14:30 GMT -5
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Post by Guinness on Oct 1, 2007 9:31:00 GMT -5
Wow odinfish! outstanding job!
Looks much better than mine for sure! One tiny suggestion however, it looks from the pictures like there is a little bit of a 'texture' to your mottled bakelite effect- I would take a very fine grit sandpaper or better yet, a sanding block and go over that until its smooth.
Excellent work!
-G
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Post by odinfish on Oct 1, 2007 10:28:41 GMT -5
There is some noticeable texture in places...haven't gotten to the fine details of smoothing yet as I'm still considering an MP41 project using a crappy, cracked Vz.24 stock I have. All in all, I'm quite pleased with the turn out although the color is kinda nagging on me. I've seen 4 Mp40s up close, and with each of them, bakelite was predominantly black with burgundy looking specks. So I may end up redoing it all anyways. Thanks for the feedback. Mike |
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Post by jimseery on Oct 1, 2007 22:12:32 GMT -5
I had some mixed feelings too and left my MP 40 black. However I saw two specimens in the Imperial War Museum in London and they were both a solid dark brown. I think both will work.
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Post by Gunny on Mar 2, 2008 15:52:08 GMT -5
Greetings to All,
I am a newbie here to this forum, but a long time collector of the air soft replica line, especially though there hasn't been much out there, the WW-II line of these fine replicas.
I salute you all for the fine work I have seen and read here on the Fake Bakelite. I learned something here today, and that makes it even more the better. Asa owner of a MP_40 Chinese version and also a real life (demilled receiver) MP-40, I plan on trying out the Bakelite procedure mentioned here in this forum.
I do have question though to anyone who might be able to help
On the MP-40 (Chinese version) is there a way to move the front sling over to the right side, from its current position which is on the left. ?
On a real MP-40 that is achieved easy, but on this replica, it may not be possible. Has anyone been able to achieve this ?
If so could you explain how it is accomplished ?
Again, I salute you all and applaud the professional and courteous manner of you all here on this great forum....
Best regards,
John
"Gunny"
USMC-Ret. ( 1968-1993)
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click
Sergeant
Company G, 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, 1st Marine Division
Posts: 1,764
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Post by click on Mar 2, 2008 16:14:35 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum gunny, sir (gotta get myself used to that  )! I dont know the answer to your question, but I just wanted to be the first to say welcome as well as thankyou for serving. I plan on joining the USMC in a year and a half after High School and I am always honored to "meet" veterans such as yourself, even if it is just over the forums. Click |
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Post by Gunny on Mar 2, 2008 16:24:57 GMT -5
Thank you Click for the warm welcome. but you can just call me Gunny... I appreciate your comments, then mean more then words can convey. You have chosen a excellent branch of service, (even though I am partial to it also) I wish you the best in your service, and remember Semper Fi !!!! Salute, Gunny Welcome to the forum gunny, sir (gotta get myself used to that )! I dont know the answer to your question, but I just wanted to be the first to say welcome as well as thankyou for serving. I plan on joining the USMC in a year and a half after High School and I am always honored to "meet" veterans such as yourself, even if it is just over the forums. Click |
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Post by CharleyNovember on Mar 2, 2008 16:53:27 GMT -5
unscrew barrel retaining nut turn sling to the side you want screw down the barrel retaining nut again. Done:)
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Post by Gunny on Mar 2, 2008 17:34:57 GMT -5
Hey CharleyNovember. I tried that, but the barrel nut dosent go back quite enought for the sling eye to clear and be able to rotate to right sight due to fact that the barrel nut hits the barrel rest before there is enought room for the sling eye to clear and rotate. Not sure if the barrell rest is removable temporary or not ? So far still unable to rotate the sling eye Any other suggestions ? Thanks, Gunny unscrew barrel retaining nut turn sling to the side you want screw down the barrel retaining nut again. Done:) |
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Post by CharleyNovember on Mar 2, 2008 17:58:41 GMT -5
oops forgot to mention a step. muzzle nut(at least on mine) unscrewed then moved barrel rest up the unscrewed that barrel retention ring and swivled the attachment around. I have heard some people having muzzle nuts that are not removable or glued on. Mine unscrewed just fine.
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Post by Gunny on Mar 2, 2008 20:20:53 GMT -5
Yep. my muzzle nut unscrewed just fine, but the barrel rest will not move towards the muzzle I wonder if that pin is able to be tap out with a punch, thus allowing the movement of muzzle rest, not sure if I will try that or not since not sure if can be done. Right now muzzle nut is off, and barrell not is as loose as it can go, and still its about 1/8 of inch from allowing the sling eye to rotate. On the real MP40 it actually seperates from the main body when the barrell nut is loosended thus allowing the sling eye to rotate, but on this replica it dosnt seem to be able to that...  ?? |
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Post by Gunny on Mar 2, 2008 22:52:11 GMT -5
Thanks to all for your help on the sling issue,
I was able to tap out the barrell rest pin with ease,
switched the sling eye over to the right
and tightened everything back up...
Thanks for all your help and suggestions...
Salute
Gunny
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Post by Gunny on Mar 4, 2008 1:06:36 GMT -5
Hey Guys,
Small little question, I was removing my side panels and grips in preparation of completing the Fake Bakelite process, and in the course of reassembly I am having a little problem replacing the selector switch (I decided to keep the selector switch, since I do not knowing anything about these gearboxes and didn't want parts flying all over, lol).
With this selector switch is one very small spring, and a very small white plastic tip, I am assuming that the spring inserts in the small hole underneath the selector switch and this small white plastic tip inserts into the spring, and then is used in the small detents in the side panel when selecting.
Problem, is getting the selector back on side panel along with this spring and plastic tip.
Anybody have a trick in replacing it back on the mp-40 ?
I try all kind of ways and not having much luck.
Is this spring and plastic really necessary for the selector to operate correctly ?
I will post a couple of pictures of my MP-40 once I get it all back together again...... I hope....
Thanks for any help and ideals...
Gunny
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)! I dont know the answer to your question, but I just wanted to be the first to say welcome as well as thankyou for serving. I plan on joining the USMC in a year and a half after High School and I am always honored to "meet" veterans such as yourself, even if it is just over the forums.
??